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Roll Cage Discussion

nvrenuf

nvrenuf

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There's lots of info in the forum but it's spread all over with lots of dead pics, lets consolidate some of it.

I think it's safe to say the general consensus is to use 1.75" DOM tubing. Let's hear everyone's input on the following aspects...

∙ Designs
∙ Gussets
∙ Frame / body tie ins
∙ Seat / seatbelt / accessory mounting
 
I have a Diy4x kit I'll be installing. Since buying the kit I've decided to do a full top conversion so now I'm wondering if a double "B" pillar might be needed. Opinions?

Pic for example, no idea who's truck.

k5 cage.JPG
 
I will add this.

While the vast majority of us use 1.75 .120 wall. With the typical weight of our vehicles, we should be using 2".

That being said most recreational wheeling rollovers are more mild than in a race situation and I thing design is much more important than tubing size
 
blazinzuk said:
I will add this.

While the vast majority of us use 1.75 .120 wall. With the typical weight of our vehicles, we should be using 2".

That being said most recreational wheeling rollovers are more mild than in a race situation and I thing design is much more important than tubing size
Click to expand...

I agree with this.

In regards to the double B pillar, some off-road competitions are requiring double b pillar setups that are tied together...and some require an "x" behind the driver...and some require both. Obviously double b pillar is stronger, but unless your an ultra 4 rig, I deem it as unnecessary, just my opinion though.

I was wanting to use 1.75" tubing, but was forced to use 2" cause the buddy who let me use his bender had a 2" die, but to be honest, I'm glad I used 2"....looks good on a big full size. I also used .120 wall same as most everyone, however I used HREW instead of DOM mainly because of cost....DOM was over double the price of HREW when I purchased, and as blazinzuk said, I'm just a recreation wheeler and didn't think it was necessary to use DOM for my purpose...so decided to save the money and go with HREW. However, I feel just like blazinzuk that you can make up for all of that with a good designed cage that has good bracing in the common spots that will see stress in a rollover situation.

I'm not sure if mine is a great example of anything since I built it by myself in my little 2 car garage, but I tried my best to make function the most important while trying to make it look good and have the lines flow well with the vehicle. I think it turned out good and I'm pretty confident it will hold up to even a multiple roll-over situation...maybe not a desert fast rollover, but I don't think my big fat rig can go that fast anyways, ahaha

pics just for fun, though I think just about everyone has seen them and is probably sick of them:













And I just added this cross-tube on the b pillar so I could have a place to mount my tabs for my harness's, and it added some strength

 
Here's my pile, 2 inch dom for the main b pillar and 1.75 for the rest. Imho I think 1.75 dom is fine, the older desert race trucks almost all use 1.75dom and are fine. The design is the most important. 2 in if you are gonna use hrew, I know the costs are high but for main cage stuff I feel dom is a must then use the hrew for gussets. You gain the consistency with the dom so you know at least the steel and your design are working together instead of building something to a weak point at a corner.. just my opinion. I'm not done yet so I have a few bars to add before it is done.
IMG_8384.JPG
IMG_8386.JPG IMG_8331.JPG
 
Pretty proud of my cage. If I knew then what I know now though.

I'd weld it a whole lot better. I'd prefer to have the top cut off to really get in there good.
I dropped it through the floor and welded it that way. It is welded to my sliders to the frame. I wouldn't butt the a and b pillar straight to it but I'd rather angle them in straight to the frame somehow.

I'd also shoot some bars to the engine bay because my frame is buckled now at the shackles up front.
Dash bar is my favorite.







Getting in is not a big deal but I'm just under 6" 180lb. Not a big deal but foot entry would be better and more forward.
10/10 would keep the bottom floor bars in everything from now on. Keeps my first aid kit in and our feet in.




Pro tip: **** up the first bend and it's all gravy from there on.
 
Here are a couple of cage floor plates made to fit uneven floors.

The first pic is saved from Greg72's thread.

cage feet.jpg

This pic is of some "B" pillar plates Diy4x made for me.

cage feet 2.jpg

I'm thinking for the "C" pillar plates on my cargo floor I'm going to go with typical flat plate with 1/4 stock underneath as spacers in the low troughs (then opposite on the underside). I have some plates that came with the cage kit but I'm thinking I'll go with some slightly larger to make sure it sits on the high spots correctly.
 
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I know this isn't a full bodied rig but there is what I did....All 1-3/4" .120 Dom tubing. I use Dom on a cage work that surrounds people. Dom, Hrew or poop pipe is used to surround things that don't bleed.
I try to use the lest amount of bends as I can. When put under strain... Straight tubes like to stay straight and bent tubes will want to continual to bend.
I use all the same size tube. Just like the way it looks when there all the same. I no there is no problem using a smaller dia where needed.
Made a dual B pillar this time. They are stronger and to me you want as much strengthen as you can get right over your head.
Gussets, I'm starting to use the clam shell (Taco) type.
While making a cage, I try a to think about where a impact force will go and try to make a triangle behind it to spread the load out. I think the hardest hit is going to be to the upper A pillar ( As an end for end flip ) with the force going towards the center. The second hardest hit is going to be coming from the side ( As in a side roll over )
Tie all pillar to the frame.
Only take this as advice not as fact.





 
Yep I like the 2" DOM on mine. I went with it because of the beefy size look. Pics are all over the other cage thread and in my gallery. I won't waste the bandwidth posting them all again.
 
I'd love a beefy cage built out of 2" but seems like that would be a little bulky on an enclosed truck. (let the "bulky" vs "save your life!" argument begin LOL)
 
I had thought about terminating at the bottom of the "B" pillar also, just thinking about incorporating a door bar too. I really like that brace because of the way it strengthens the "C" pillar over the back seat but I've wondered if it would be a problem for the rear passengers. If it passed by them at shoulder height or maybe lower I guess that's ok but don't want to have a head buster.
 
nvrenuf said:
I'd love a beefy cage built out of 2" but seems like that would be a little bulky on an enclosed truck. (let the "bulky" vs "save your life!" argument begin LOL)
Click to expand...

I don't feel like my 2" feels bulky inside my enclosed cab. I just took those stupid swimming "noodles" that kids use at your local pool, cut it up, and zip tied it to where your head gets a little close to my front halo (you can see what I'm talking about from my pic above). But I would have to get thrown around pretty good to touch it anyways.

Now, I know everyone builds a cage to their needs and in this situation if you are a bigger fella than I can understand the major concern of head room. I'm only 5'8" and 170 lbs, so for me it's not a big deal...so something to think about for sure
 
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