Roll Cage vs Rocker Box on '74 Blazer

[Bigb55]

Welded in the outer rocker, hung the fender, and installed my new battery tray (old one was rusted away).

Tmrw I'll hang the door and hopefully not have to re shim the fender to much.

 

[mechted]

The "most correct way" is to mount the door, set the rear door gap, then mount the fender and set the front gap.
But, as I discovered, and you are about to discover, you can do it, just takes longer to make the adjustments because access is limited. Either way, put the lower hinge back on the truck before you try to mount the door.

 

[Bigb55]

It only took 5 hours to readjust the door and fender. It closes better then before and gaps are tighter. Door is good to go, but Fender needs to move/pivot forward 1/8" to 1/4" on the top. The lower fender bolt is still out in the pic that's why the bottom sticks out a bit.

I'll fiddle some more with it all later. But overall it's not bad, not great, but acceptable. Lol

I now very much dislike adjusting c10 doors

 

[Bigb55]

The "most correct way" is to mount the door, set the rear door gap, then mount the fender and set the front gap.
But, as I discovered, and you are about to discover, you can do it, just takes longer to make the adjustments because access is limited. Either way, put the lower hinge back on the truck before you try to mount the door.

That would have definitely been easier. As you noticed I forgot to put the lower hinge on. So putting the lower hinge on with the fender in the way was fun. Adjusting the hinges with it on was frustrating.

After spending all that time doing it the wrong way, and getting it "acceptable" I'm probably going have to take the fender off and re do it the right way. Lol

 

[max 02]

Nice fix!

 

[Bigb55]

Played with the front fender some more. No matter how much I adjust the door or fender. I can't get the lower fender to door gap to shrink while the upper fender to door gap gets bigger. I'm Trying to make the gap even top to bottom.

The door opens without rubbing, the rear door and windshield gap is even and tight against the weatherstripping. Adjustments to the door result in those gap getting to wide. Which could result in leaks.

I have no idea how "good" the gaps were prior. So I'm going try a few more things, but think it's as good as its going to get. For all I know it's right where it was when I bought it lol

 

[rampage]

Pics?

 

[mechted]

50 year old vehicle that has been cut apart and put back together twice now. Gaps are just going to be a thing. For mine, doors not rubbing was good enough. We arnt going for show-car status here.

 

[Bigb55]

The bottom of the door was rubbing on the rocker a tad. So I took the fender off all the way and adjusted everything the "proper" way. Adjusted the door up a bit. Put on a new door striker and the door closes perfectly and fender gaps are " good enough".

Also does anyone know how the 1973-1975 battery tray secured the battery? I bought a new lower tray and clamp but it doesn't hold the battery down at all.

Also where did the rad overflow bolt to? Mine was screwed in with sheet metal screws to a random area prior to tear down

 

[max 02]

The bottom of the door was rubbing on the rocker a tad. So I took the fender off all the way and adjusted everything the "proper" way. Adjusted the door up a bit. Put on a new door striker and the door closes perfectly and fender gaps are " good enough".

Also does anyone know how the 1973-1975 battery tray secured the battery? I bought a new lower tray and clamp but it doesn't hold the battery down at all.

Also where did the rad overflow bolt to? Mine was screwed in with sheet metal screws to a random area prior to tear down

View attachment 364760

View attachment 364762

The over flow Bottle is attached to the rad support and the battery tray with sheet metal screws from the factory, I think they have a 3/8s head on them.

This is the style of battery hold down you need.

 

[Bigb55]

Thanks for the overflow info, I got it back in.

That's the battery hold down I have. Flipped it both ways and it doesn't tighten down on the battery lip correctly. Could be that I have a group 78 battery instead of a group 75. Slightly wider and sits in the tray weird? Oh well. Figure it out later.

New inner fender came today, installed it and buttoned everything up. Passenger side is done. Minus a few missing bolts that ventured off to narnia in the garage.

Start the driver side tear down next week!

 

[max 02]

Thanks for the overflow info, I got it back in.

That's the battery hold down I have. Flipped it both ways and it doesn't tighten down on the battery lip correctly. Could be that I have a group 78 battery instead of a group 75. Slightly wider and sits in the tray weird? Oh well. Figure it out later.

New inner fender came today, installed it and buttoned everything up. Passenger side is done. Minus a few missing bolts that ventured off to narnia in the garage.

Start the driver side tear down next week!

You could try the newer style rubber hold down if you have one to use.
Like you said the battery looks like it doesn’t sit in the tray perfectly.

 

[Bigb55]

Adventures in rust repair continues on the driver side.

Appears an attempt was made to repair this side. As inner rocker patches were riveted in. Surprised to find more OEM metal under neath it all. More floor pan left on this side.

The "New" rocker at the front was slipped over the OEM rocker and only glued on with seam sealer. But the OEM rocker parts that are left in the rear and front will give me good parts to weld the new one on.

Cut out the body mount brace and nut. Attempting to salvage the firewall brace. But it's not looking good.

 

[Bigb55]

Done! All rust cut out, bracing installed and gallons of rust paint applied.

Just have to paint the rockers and bedliner or get new carpet.

There are still two small riveted in patches above the old tailgate hinge area on the cargo floor. I decided to leave them be for now. Theyre 3x5" squares. The rust was cut out and treated. I decided Ill wait until it spreads. I want to drive the dam truck! Lol

 

[Bigb55]

Today I learned a few things.

I'm not a great auto painter nor do I have the patience to sand body filler until perfect. Also my truck is either not GM summit/olympic white or the paint I bought is not an exact match. Hopefully I can polish out the tape line also. If it bugs me enough, Some day I'll scuff and shoot the whole lower quarter. Which now I know why they do that for an actual "repair" ha!

It's not perfect, but then again I'm not a professional and this is not a show truck it's going to be used as a truck, and will eventually get scratched etc.

 

[H20 Toie]

Granted i'm not a painter but i do know you are not going to get a perfect match. that is why they blend the paint over a large area to the difference isn't as noticeable.

 

[Bigb55]

• Granted i'm not a painter but i do know you are not going to get a perfect match. that is why they blend the paint over a large area to the difference isn't as noticeable.

Yeah, I kind of expected that to be the case, but have no clue how to do that properly. I can still try blended it. Sand the edge down and spray it out farther without tape on the white. As it is now, it honestly just looks like I put on some of that see through stone guard wrap stuff haha.

 

[Bigb55]

Welp turns out with a crash course on youtube in blending paint. You can fix your mistakes. Id say it's a 100% improvement. I focused more on the lower rear panel and completely got rid of the tape line. The door jam I just blended Cause it's a door jam and covered by the door....

 

[Scottystrom]

Got diagnosed with Covid, so I am stuck at home until after new years. Luckily no symptoms. So lots of free time again. I Cut and Fitted the front to rear floor brace. Also cleaned up and patched the rocker box where needed. The floor pan keeps getting cut more to access everything. So will probably replace it with the full replacement pan in the end.

Rust Bullet will arrive Friday, so I will paint the inside of the rocker box and underside of floor pan. Then some final trimming/fitting and zap it all back together!

Can't wait to Seal it up and hopefully ignore it for another decade.

View attachment 363016

Where did you get a full floor pan from?

 

[Bigb55]

Where did you get a full floor pan from?

https://tabcoparts.com

Tabco has everything. You combine the full pan with a front rear section. It will replace everything from door to the trans tunnel and rear ledge. I cut up a full pan as needed.

The floor pan with flanges is closer to the OEM style and the kickpanel edges go down. The full pan kick panel edges curve up and it goes higher up the firewall.