T
tenderfoot
Guest
What about instead of the U, two tubes running front to back same width as U?
Or even a little narrower
Or even a little narrower
CK5
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Roll Cages and Headroom- How Do People Do It??
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
The 2 parallel tubes would work at avoiding the rear headroom but I want to try to go out to the major intersections.
After Eric's dead node comment, I've been staring at it some more and I'm thinking it would be better to substitute a couple of straight tubes to create an offset X with short legs at the C crossbar.
After Eric's dead node comment, I've been staring at it some more and I'm thinking it would be better to substitute a couple of straight tubes to create an offset X with short legs at the C crossbar.
I really bet I have spent more hours staring at cages trying to get everything to land just right and look good than I have actually building cages. Likely a thousand feet or so of that type of tape
This seems to work good (rear section). Her head was right in the center of the open area.
The front supports will need to stay in at B and out at A. I may even incorporate the same offset X pattern to make room over the front seat heads plus I like the supports hitting the outer A corners.
The front supports will need to stay in at B and out at A. I may even incorporate the same offset X pattern to make room over the front seat heads plus I like the supports hitting the outer A corners.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I suspect the long straight bar in the center isn’t doing a whole lot. Might make getting in/out from up top easier without it.
Offset X looks nicer and is more functional than the U. Could also change the angle of the two short legs of the X so they intersect the back corners of the C. Looks like headroom would be similar.
Offset X looks nicer and is more functional than the U. Could also change the angle of the two short legs of the X so they intersect the back corners of the C. Looks like headroom would be similar.
Yeah, the long straight bar probably isn't needed. My main reason for keeping it so far is to have a place to hang a couple of grab handles from.
While you probably could take it out I wouldn't. It's still taking forces and distributing them to other tubes .
Plus it looks better, and if you ever put a center bar in the windshield, it's now very much serving a purpose. And yes I know we are talking between the b and c pillar.
It also prevents a dead node from the front center tube
Last night after seeing your "U" design this was the counter design in my head but I was too tired to explain/type it out
I hear ya. I was tired and posting like crazy but thinking about it. I looked at this post this morning and thought wtf was I thinking. lol I definitely will not be using that offset X in the front half of the cage, I was so focused on headroom I ignored the dead nodes where the front X would hit the B bar.
As of today.... I've decided to use the offset X in the rear half and just simple diagonals in at B and out at A with the center line tube from A through to the middle of the X.
My new "concern" is a diagonal from the lower B to upper C, it's right in line with the rear passenger's head. The bar is 12"-15" away but still seems close. I don't really see any alternative though as I want the support for the upper C joint. I also plan to look at adding vertical legs from the floor to the upper C behind the rear seats.
As of today.... I've decided to use the offset X in the rear half and just simple diagonals in at B and out at A with the center line tube from A through to the middle of the X.
My new "concern" is a diagonal from the lower B to upper C, it's right in line with the rear passenger's head. The bar is 12"-15" away but still seems close. I don't really see any alternative though as I want the support for the upper C joint. I also plan to look at adding vertical legs from the floor to the upper C behind the rear seats.
If your passengers are wearing their seatbelts you should be fine. If not well it's not gonna matter how close or how far
Seatbelts always!!
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
that cage will fold like pretzel, especially the back half.
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
Didn't have time to watch the whole video, but will comment more later.
But yeah, i'm a little not confident on that cage and i'm not an expert on this at all. i wouldn't feel safe driving it, for the intended purpose of that cage.
Been lurking in a few cage threads getting ideas. This one has helped a lot. I would try to push the rear x to mount over where the tube is sleeved, but thats just me.
That was my first thought too but then the tube gets close to being overhead again.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Tube pads are also an option. I seriously smacked my ‘nogin on one after I was foolish enough to drive 50 feet through the parking lot in Hollister and hit a bump that launched me upward really fast. Was a good wake up call about seatbelts any time it’s moving and made me appreciate roll bar pads as an extra measure of safety where possible.
Overhead design - which is better, left or right? If left, what's the bestest / easiest way to make that 5 way joint? Would you do 5 separate tubes intersecting (notching nightmare?) Or could you do each side as a single tube bent and then welded together where they touched (and then add the center tube)?
Yes, I'm daydreaming at work....
Yes, I'm daydreaming at work....
jkroberts
Roberts Custom Trucks
i think the left would be better. If you ran the center bar just long enough to be the center of the X, i dont think it will be that hard to notch the 4 tubes to sit properly.
Would the center barely protrude through the rear of the X (and be capped) or terminate inside it? If inside, that's what seems like a notching nightmare.
