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Roll-On Bed Liner/Floorpan Questions

cdoggwsu

cdoggwsu

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Hey guys, I just picked up an '88 K5 and I'm prepping the floor for some roll-on bed liner. I've got the floormat and that dampening crap mostly up but there's a vinyl pad bonded to the floorpan that goes from the front of the seats to about 1/4 of the way up to the firewall. There's a lot of places where it has bubbled up and I'd just as soon cut it all out than just get the bubbles and paint over the rest. The problem is it's really stuck on there and taking forever to peel off with a razor blade. Has anyone experienced issues with this, and if so, what's the best way to get it off? Thanks for any input!

Sorry for posting this in the garage. I'm not a member yet so my options are limited!
 
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I removed my carpet/pads last year in order to repair my floors. I used a grinder with a wire brush attachment. For hard to reach places I used acetone to loosen the glue. You should be able to use any good adhesive remover from your local hardware store. You need to remove everything before you even think about putting down any type of bedliner. I would also recommend roughing up the surface of the floor before you put down the bedliner. Good luck.
 
x2 You can get a wire wheel atachment for a grinder and get all that stuff off. make sure you let the damp spots dry really good. scuff any surface you put the bedliner on or it wiil not stick.
 
cdoggwsu said:
Hey guys, I just picked up an '88 K5 and I'm prepping the floor for some roll-on bed liner. I've got the floormat and that dampening crap mostly up but there's a vinyl pad bonded to the floorpan that goes from the front of the seats to about 1/4 of the way up to the firewall. There's a lot of places where it has bubbled up and I'd just as soon cut it all out than just get the bubbles and paint over the rest. The problem is it's really stuck on there and taking forever to peel off with a razor blade. Has anyone experienced issues with this, and if so, what's the best way to get it off? Thanks for any input!

Sorry for posting this in the garage. I'm not a member yet so my options are limited!
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Put a heat gun on that stuff and it should peel right up. That is how I am gonna remove mine. Like everyone else said get down to metal and ruff it up with some 36 grit and make sure it is clean and oil free with acetone or xylene. Make sure you were the proper PPE when using any chemicals.

Prep is the key to getting this stuff to stick and last.

Dik
 
I used a wire wheel and whatever came off came off. Whatever stayed on stayed on. I cleaned it and rolled right over it. It has sat in the elements last season with no doors and sometimes with the top rolled up and haven't had a problem yet. However, I do have a floor mat over where tha area is so I don't prematurely wear out the areas where my feet are. But I still haven't had any problems.
 
i put aluminum diamond plate where the floor mats would of gone...
Riveted them right into the tacky herculiner before it dried fully...
 
sandawgk5 said:
Put a heat gun on that stuff and it should peel right up.
Dik
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Yeah that one crossed my mind as I was layin in bed last night. I'll give that a go, and the acetone too (though not at the same time :eek1:) Thanks again for the info fellas.
 
Well the acetone isn't going quite as quickly as I'd hoped. Should I let it sit on the stuff for awhile before trying to scrape it off?
 
cdoggwsu said:
Well the acetone isn't going quite as quickly as I'd hoped. Should I let it sit on the stuff for awhile before trying to scrape it off?
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I meant to use the acetone to prep the paint/metal before rolling on the new stuff. I tried pulling some of my stuff up by hand today and it did not go well I am def using the heat gun on it. What I did pull up I uncovered a broken weld:eek1:. Just a little one I will hit it with mine before I paint it.


Dik
 
Clean that crap up best you can, wire wheel it get all the glue and rubber up, then POR-15 the floor and Herculliner over the top of that. You'll never have a problem again.
 
sandawgk5 said:
I meant to use the acetone to prep the paint/metal before rolling on the new stuff. I tried pulling some of my stuff up by hand today and it did not go well I am def using the heat gun on it. What I did pull up I uncovered a broken weld:eek1:. Just a little one I will hit it with mine before I paint it.
Dik
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Yeah I see now. I think you may be on to something with the heat gun. I tried the girlfriend's hair dryer and that helped a bit. I need to get back up to Harbor Freight to pick up a real one. I must have gotten really lucky on this rig. There isn't a spot of body rot on it. All i've found so far is some really mild surface rust, a couple of the spot welds in the floorpan that have cracked out and the two rear driver's seat mounts that have punched through the floor.
 
cdoggwsu said:
Yeah I see now. I think you may be on to something with the heat gun. I tried the girlfriend's hair dryer and that helped a bit. I need to get back up to Harbor Freight to pick up a real one. I must have gotten really lucky on this rig. There isn't a spot of body rot on it. All i've found so far is some really mild surface rust, a couple of the spot welds in the floorpan that have cracked out and the two rear driver's seat mounts that have punched through the floor.
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Mine was a Washington rig when I bought it (Kitsap County) and I have no rot at all. I did notice 1 cracked spot weld underneath the passenger floorboard rubber thing you are trying to get up and some on a door where I took the moulding off and did not cover the bare metal:doah:

Dik
 
Yeah, gotta love the mild climate for takin' it easy on our rigs. I've managed to get all of the rubber matting and that fiber insulation stuff out from tip to toe. All that's left is that damn vinyl stuff. To think, this all started as a weekend project to put a new radio in it...now not only is there no radio, but no dash, no carpet, no seats...:crazy:
 
cdoggwsu said:
Yeah, gotta love the mild climate for takin' it easy on our rigs. I've managed to get all of the rubber matting and that fiber insulation stuff out from tip to toe. All that's left is that damn vinyl stuff. To think, this all started as a weekend project to put a new radio in it...now not only is there no radio, but no dash, no carpet, no seats...:crazy:
Click to expand...

I started a dual battery install since mine was stolen and now the K5 is gutted and needs to be back together before the 29th:doah:

Dik
 
Heat Gun, FTW! Good call, Dik...worked like a charm. Now I have this desire to sand the rest of the cab down to metal before I paint it all.:eek1:
 
So I'm debating this now. I already need to take the ol' girl in to get the seat mounts welded up. I've found 3 or 4 spot welds on the floorpan that have cracked out but they aren't too pronounced, and once i got that vinyl mat up i found a spot in the corner just below the tranny hump where the fuel line rubbed a hole all the way through the floor:eek1:. The hole is only about the size of a dime, but the fuel line is a bit frayed (on the metal sleeve) and I can faintly smell gas:(. I'm going to lightly bend the hardline away and put a new fuel line in, but as far as that hole and the cracked out spot welds...I was thinking about just filling them with jb weld and sanding it smooth. Would that be ok or should i have the machine shop zap them while they are doing the seat mounts anyway? The fuel line hole is in such a bitch of a place I don't think they'll want to weld it but it's not big enough to warrant cutting out and putting a new piece in. Any suggestions?
 
I can't see where a guy with any welding experience can't get in there and fill that hole, even without using a spoon. I know JB weld is good for alot of thing's, the weld idea is much better. If they don't want to **ck with it, find this material called "All-Metal" it's much better than JB weld. I've used it on every thing from motorcycle engine cases to differentials. The $hit is good. You can even drill and tap this stuff and it holds up extremely well.
 
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