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Roof rack solutions??

badmix

badmix

1/2 ton status
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http://www.everythingsuv.com/surco_safari_roof_racks-esuv.asp

Im pretty close to trying something here. lol.

Lemme know what ya'll think.

My thinking was to get the Rails from Surco, mount them over the cab, not the fiberglass. and then have one of their 40x50 Safari racks with their rail mounts. The smallest rack is 40x50 and the rails are 36". I measured the top of my truck, the cab is 32" from back edge to windshield, plus it curves down a bit. The width was about 50" w/ 44-48" of it being flat, the rest curves.

If I did this, I would run some steel or aluminum 2-3" wide strips on the inside to support and spread the load better.

What ya'll think? This is one of those do or die projects, drilling holes in a perfectly good roof is not something I take lightly.

Ive also thought about the same thing over the fiberglass topper. But not sure about that. I dont take my topper off, so thats not an issue. I jus wonder if it can support it.

The only things going in the roof rack would be like chairs, tents, etc. Kinda bulky light items. The most would be a spare tire 33" on steel wheel. Ive already got the hilift and shovels mounted on my truck, so they wouldnt go up there. And I would add 2-4 lights up front and 2 out back.
 
You should be fine with it mounted on the fiberglass top plus you can get a bigger rack. Just mount the rails as far out as possible towards the left and right edges where it is more sturdy. The only thing about that rack is that it looks a little "flimsy" as opposed to something heavier guage. But if you are only putting lighter more bulky items it may not matter. Just remember it's up there when you decide to pull into a parking structure.
 
What if you did one on both the fiberglass top and the cab... You could store a lot of stuff up there.:thinking:
 
mr.smartass said:
What if you did one on both the fiberglass top and the cab... You could store a lot of stuff up there.:thinking:
Click to expand...


I actually thought about that. Jus running the rails the full length and either getting one of the super long ones like they run on the H1s or jus having two up there. lol
 
Check out Yakima as well. I'm sure Thule also has similar products but I prefer Yakima.

Their version of what you just posted;

http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=171

They also have some that will clamp to the rain gutters above the cab, or you can get 'rain gutters' that bolt on to the side of your fibreglass top http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=26 .

Lot's of solutions.

I used these on my burb, they are very well designed, and designed to be leak proof http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=28 and you can easily take off the cross bars leaving behind a streamlined attachment point.

This time around I wanted something heavy duty so I went this route I now have crossbars that connect the front and rear hoops. On these crossbars I've mounted Yakima crossbars. It seems a little overkill perhaps but it allows me COMPLETE versatility, bikes, kayaks, lumber, baskets and it is all removeable with 12 bolts for the trail.

Rack.jpg

Rack Close Up.jpg
 
fireplug said:
Check out Yakima as well. I'm sure Thule also has similar products but I prefer Yakima.

Their version of what you just posted;

http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=171

They also have some that will clamp to the rain gutters above the cab, or you can get 'rain gutters' that bolt on to the side of your fibreglass top http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=26 .

Lot's of solutions.

I used these on my burb, they are very well designed, and designed to be leak proof http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=28 and you can easily take off the cross bars leaving behind a streamlined attachment point.

This time around I wanted something heavy duty so I went this route I now have crossbars that connect the front and rear hoops. On these crossbars I've mounted Yakima crossbars. It seems a little overkill perhaps but it allows me COMPLETE versatility, bikes, kayaks, lumber, baskets and it is all removeable with 12 bolts for the trail.
Click to expand...

Please show more pics of your truck. That is sharp and completely clean. Thats the style I like. :bow:
 
Mine took a weekend to build. Full length and mounted to the roof directly. Cost about $150 for steel, wire, flappers and paint.

1000457mediumqc6.jpg
 
Can you get shots of the inside?

Obviously yours is an all metal roof. So going to fiberglass may be diff. also the roof on the K5 is pretty flimsy.
 
I just drilled down through rack and the roof supports and used some small grade 8's to hold it on. It sits directly on the roof with some of the insulation that they use for back caps in between. That lets it disperse the weight over the entire racoof surface.

I have had 2 spare/ mounted 35's with around 350lbs of additional gear up there with no problem. We walk on it all of the time to load/unload. Camp gear/chairs/other light stuff should not be any problem at all for the fiberglass.
 
mr250twostroke said:
Please show more pics of your truck. That is sharp and completely clean. Thats the style I like. :bow:
Click to expand...

I'll post some later today. Anything in particular you want to see?
 
CBBR,

That looks like something I'd like to make also for my Burb. Couple of questions:
How many mounting points do you have?
Any particular places that you recommend to mount the rack's attachment points to on the roof?
How large was the mounting point (ex. 2"x2" for each leg of the rack, etc.)
How much weight do you think the roof can safely support?

Thanks
 
The rack sits directly on the roof - nothing more. 6 grade 8's. There are plastic spacers between the front two and tehe roof, but I don't put much weight there. I know for a fact that it can hold 400lbs of stuff.
 
Roof rack

Here's a picture of mine. It's a conferr rack I bought from a guy and it's bolted to the top with well nuts. No problems so far.

blazer2-2.jpg
 
I agree, if and when I do it. Im looking at using a track system so I can take the rack off if need be. Ill jus run some elevator bolts (really flat ended , uses allen wrench, doesnt protrude like a carriage bolt). Ill run the bolts UP thru the top and the nut on the rack itself. Im looking at a lighter aluminum rack to put less stress on the topper. Id like to see some INSIDE pics of those racks and how ya'll ran the wires for the lights. :D
 
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