ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
X2 on that
CK5
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Rookie needs Junkyard tips
- Thread starter ChevyToy04
- Start date
X2 on that
Yep. SRW, meaning "single rear wheel", is made for wheels with normal backspacing.
DRW aka "dually", is for the goofy waaaay deep wheels used on trucks with dual rear wheels.
The front axles for dually trucks have different hubs that stick the WMS, wheel mounting surface, waaaay out for those deep wheels, so you can use the same wheels front and rear.
If you put regular wheels on there, they'll be offset to the outside and your turning will be all borked up and you'll scrub the hell out of your tires in short order.
You have two options, then; switch hubs (effectively changing to the SRW type), which is pricey, or using crazy deep wheels, like the H1 type.
Make more sense?
-- A
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
Makes a lot more sense to me!
So to run regular wheels, say 16x10 Mickey Thompson Classic Lock rims, I would want a SRW dana 60 and the front axle also to have the same gear ratio? Just trying to find out what to be on the lookout for so that I don't make a costly mistake
Makes a lot more sense to me!
So to run regular wheels, say 16x10 Mickey Thompson Classic Lock rims, I would want a SRW dana 60 and the front axle also to have the same gear ratio? Just trying to find out what to be on the lookout for so that I don't make a costly mistake
Yep, you're on the right track. Note that re-gearing the axle is easier than switching DRW<->SRW, so I wouldn't base the purchase decision on gear ratio, or at least that alone. If you find an SRW axle in great shape with the wrong ratio, just figure re-gearing into the cost. Also expect to have to replace SOMETHING on the axle, whether it's brakes or steering stuff or whatever.
But yes, front and rear axle ratios need to be the same (or really close, like 4.10:1 and 4.11:1.) In 2WD it won't matter, but when you go into 4WD, one end of the truck will be trying to go faster than the other end, which is A Bad Thing.
-- A
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
Yep, you're on the right track. Note that re-gearing the axle is easier than switching DRW<->SRW, so I wouldn't base the purchase decision on gear ratio, or at least that alone. If you find an SRW axle in great shape with the wrong ratio, just figure re-gearing into the cost. Also expect to have to replace SOMETHING on the axle, whether it's brakes or steering stuff or whatever.
But yes, front and rear axle ratios need to be the same (or really close, like 4.10:1 and 4.11:1.) In 2WD it won't matter, but when you go into 4WD, one end of the truck will be trying to go faster than the other end, which is A Bad Thing.
-- A
10-4! new subject, teach me about a 14bff, I understand what it stands for but thats about it. I noticed in your sig you have one and you converted your 10 bolt to 8 lug. so I know its 8 lug, and better than the 10 bolt rear you had but thats all
Hmm, if you hijack your own thread, is that threadsterbation?
My truck originally had a D44 and 12 bolt, actually, due to its age -- the 10-bolt axle didn't happen until the 80's sometime.
To your question, however ... the 14BFF is crazy heavy duty as compared to the 1/2 ton GM axles (10 & 12 bolt), due to being insanely large and the full-floating hubs.
The downside is that it's insanely large, and when off-roading can be used as a trench digger.
There's lots more, but starting out all you need to know is that they're beefy and hard to break.14BFF's came in various 3/4 and 1-ton GM's, all identical in terms of strength but with different spring perches and/or shock mounting. The most direct bolt-up to a Blazer is from a 3/4 ton 4WD pickup or Suburban; others may require some cutting and welding.
There's also the 14 bolt semi-floater, which showed up later (mid-80's sometime) on light-duty 3/4-tons. I don't see them as much of an upgrade from a 10/12-bolt.
If you want to go cross-eyed, Billavista has a great tech article on the 14BFF:
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html
He also has one on the D60
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Note that his writeups are not focussed on e.g. Blazers, so be mindful to check for direct bolt-ups as opposed to "minor welding required"
-- A
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
You are my hero! I've learned more useful stuff from you today than I have learned all semester in college! Thank you so much! I'm going to check out those links and let you know when I have any unanswered questions
Thank you so much! I'm going to check out those links and let you know when I have any unanswered questions
You are my hero! I've learned more useful stuff from you today than I have learned all semester in college!
No worries. I've asked my share of n00b questions here; CK5 is a helpful place.
It's also dangerous; you start out with a stock truck and maybe you know how to change your oil. You start learning things and buying tools, and pretty soon you've got an eight-foot tall monster on giant tires, and swapping a motor or welding up a rollcage are perfectly ordinary weekend activities
-- A
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
No worries. I've asked my share of n00b questions here; CK5 is a helpful place.
It's also dangerous; you start out with a stock truck and maybe you know how to change your oil. You start learning things and buying tools, and pretty soon you've got an eight-foot tall monster on giant tires, and swapping a motor or welding up a rollcage are perfectly ordinary weekend activities
-- A
That was the whole intention when I purchased my blazer on 9-26-11
Talked to the guy a few months before then, got a price, and worked my ass off to get it as quickly as possible
Now I just gotta start accumulating here and there until I get it how I want it.
That was the whole intention when I purchased my blazer on 9-26-11
Talked to the guy a few months before then, got a price, and worked my ass off to get it as quickly as possible
At least you didn't say "done." I've had my K5 since before I joined up here, and ... well, it'll never be "done"
-- A
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
At least you didn't say "done." I've had my K5 since before I joined up here, and ... well, it'll never be "done"
-- A
I chose my words carefully because I know it'll never be done like you said. But thats what projects are for
No. If you want to use standard wheels, not dually wheels, you need a SRW.
ChevyToy04
1/2 ton status
Oh okay, yeah I gotta make sure I have it all straight in my head. I think I got the 60 down now; DRW only if I wanna run H1s. SRW for standard rims. Gear ratio doesn't matter because regear is necessary unless you find front and rear that is very close
