What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rough running and dieing

I haven't checked the distributor for tightness. Yep it is alot of codes and I dont know where to begin. I did pull the IAC and cleaned it up and found that the wire to the cam sensor was burned in a spot. So I cut out the burned section with the same code results. Im lost on this.
 
Cam sensor? This is the '88 TBI? No such animal.

Your tool is either set to wrong VIN or otherwise not connecting to ECM correctly...no way you have all those codes IMO. Most of those are high/low codes (just based on consecutive numbers, not that I looked them all up) and it's pretty unlikely you've got three or four sensors that are reading excessively high and low at the same times.

Is the live data you can see garbage as well? Normally it will be seen as unrealistic values....RPM 5555, temp -40*, etc.
 
Unhook the battery, clear out all the codes, run the engine for a bit and see what new code gets triggered.

also when you say "sputtering out" does it do exactly that, sputter till dead or does it just flat out shut off like you'd switch the key to the off position?
 
The code posted a cam sensor and I found the location on a different site. Its by the starter under the block towards the front of the engine. If its not a cm sensor what is it? I have pulled the battery cables and still same code. Ive even removed the fuses for the ecm, the idle/ignition. Like I keep saying I am lost. I think I entered the right vin# too. I will double check when I get home. Could the exhaust work I had done be an issue? I totally forgot about that!
 
It sputters and will cut off too. Then if it starts it takes a long time to get it running then it runs like crap.
 
Not sure to the extent you're having with the way it's running, I'm currently having issues with a knock sensor reading tripping the CEL right after start-up.

I know from other things I have had issues with in the past, that other things going wrong will make other sensors read wrong and throw the code.

I haven't gotten too in depth with mine lately, I'm actually looking at getting one of those ALDL cables and get it hooked up to a laptop or however the guys here are doing it.
 
Well I need to get this done by monday. So im thinking about replacing all the coded problems and see what that gets me. I hate throwing money at a problem that may or may not work but im at my limit with this thing.
 
If the truck ran correctly before the exhaust work, I would start looking near and around any area that was touched during that project. It's possible they pinched wires, burnt wires or cut them during the exhaust work. Use the 12" rule, inspect everything within 12" of any area they worked on. That's of course assuming that it ran right before the exhaust work. Also assuming they did any work near a wire harness.
 
greengiant0311 said:
Well I need to get this done by monday. So im thinking about replacing all the coded problems and see what that gets me. I hate throwing money at a problem that may or may not work but im at my limit with this thing.
Click to expand...

And you may be beyond your limit when you spend ~$200 and still don't fix it. You can't ignore the fact that you only get a code 12 from the ECM. The ECM is spitting out that code. The code reader is not what runs the engine. I'd trust what is running the engine, until I figured out why the scantool isn't reading right.

From this post: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2342174&postcount=1 I'm not even seeing some of the codes you posted as being applicable. If they aren't applicable, then the scanner is not correct.

You spent good money on a scantool, spend the time to get it working right. *ALL* the evidence is pointing to incorrect scantool data. Ignore the ECM at the peril of your pocketbook.

Additionally, you still haven't checked fuel pressure from all I can see. If you can get the pressure tester, eliminate fuel as the cause. BTDT, truck ran, but quite crappy, until I pulled my head out and actually tested the pressure, which was way too low.
 
Ok, so my plan of action this weekend is ensure scan tool is right, then use it and code reader to check. I will disconnect battery first then run the truck to let it warm up then hook up the code reader first then scan tool? Does this sound right or is there any other advice? The fuel pressure I cant do until I can drive it far enough to get to a shop or parts store. If I can get it there
 
Engine doesn't need running for scantool to work. Key just needs on.

If the key is on, and the scantool is reading correct, you'll see things like coolant temp, TPS voltage, MAP, etc. (and the figures will be believable) If the TPS is ~.5V with pedal at rest, and changes as you move your foot, pretty likely your scanner is working right.


You know you can run a paperclip or wire between terminals A and B on the ALDL connector and the check engine light will flash codes, no reader needed, right? The OBD1 code readers that are sold are one of the biggest GM ECM scams out there :(

You can't get someone to take you to autozone or whatever? They loan the tool pretty much indefinitely (days) so it's not like you need to get right to it.
 
Sorry I jumped around on my last comment. I meant disconnect the battery to rest ecm. Then run it to operating temp, then turn it off then run the scan tool. I do know now that the code reader is pretty much wasted money. I did the paper clip test but wasn't sure I was getting a good connection so I bought the reader. Lesson learned. I didnt think you could rent that type of stuff out. Thanks for the info.
 
I ran the code checker last night and its the 1 2 flash. Then I double checked the info on the scan tool. Year 88 vin# K and it still pulls up all the same codes. Now what? Code reader says good to go and scanner is saying 10 codes!
 
Not sure what's going on with your scan tool, mine looks like a key, with two prongs that just connect the A/B pins in the test port. :D

Anyways, I mentioned earlier that just because you have a code for a particular part in the computer, doesn't necessarily mean that particular part is bad. Something else could be going bad and causing things to get misreadings.

I had a bad fuel pump die on me while I was visiting my brother in SoCal a long time back, it kept throwing a lean condition O2 sensor reading, I'd changed that, then a throttle position sensor, then a idle air control valve, all because at the time, I was still fairly new to this style of fuel injection, and didn't bother to check the actual fuel pressure. I ended up driving the truck all the way from San Diego back to Phoenix, in 3rd gear because it just wouldn't go any faster, eventually changed out the pump, again, without even testing it and the thing ran like a new truck, blew me away.

Right before I had the electrical connector problem back in Indiana that shut it down for the past 3 years I had this happen to it....


Believe it or not, this cause a MAP sensor code to be tripped. Again, I didn't bother to check the fuel pressure, because I had already changed out the fuel pump not long before I made this trip to Indiana. This pump was a replacement, from the one I put in it that originally failed out in Cali. This pictured pump is the second one replaced since I've owned this truck, it now has a 3rd in it because of this issue.

Get an absolute reading on your fuel pressure, it really throws sensor reading out of whack when they can't get a correct pressure to make things run smoothly.
 
As far as the dash light code checking, you should be getting a code 12 three times, then a pause, then three times again if there are no codes stored. It's a beginning and end to the code reading, if there are any codes, you'll get the 12, then a pause, then any actual codes, then another 12 once it's done displaying all of the codes.
 
Im guessing thats the fuel pump? Cuz I keep getting the MAP srnsor high and low signal from the scan tool. I just filled the tank the last time it drove too!
 
Well its Tuesday. The same issues are present. Can anyone tell me how to move this thread to the Garage? Maybe I can get more people to see this. Thanks for all the insight so far yall.
 
Would a tune up change anything? Some info ive found says misfire would cause MAP sensor to act up. Also would it be possible to just put a new fuel pump in line or just put in a manual pump?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom