Actualy you can do it with 1 can, haha
CK5
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Rudy's 72
- Thread starter RudyO
- Start date
I'm in for the Chevy Orange. If you don't paint it though, I promise to only send small rocks heading your way.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Okay, I have 38 days to get this up, running, and legal for a club run on June 07. Should be interesting, and it won't be pretty. Need a windshield, patch that firewall, get the motor running, electrical, cooling, and bumpers. I know nothing of the history of this Blazer, so hoping the rest of the mechanicals are at least useable for the run...
Gonna juggle my "fleet" and start the cleanup today. Need to see what I have to work with.
Oh, and that means the engine will be blue for a lil bit longer, heh.
Gonna juggle my "fleet" and start the cleanup today. Need to see what I have to work with.
Oh, and that means the engine will be blue for a lil bit longer, heh.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Day 38: It rained. Vehicles switched, Blazer cleaned out.
350 engine block, #3970014 w/o steam holes
heads #333882
TH350 (silver paint, might have been rebuilt) PO said it was a TH400
2 cams
2 boxs of internal engine parts
2 torque converters
2 carb spacers
2 fan shrouds (SB and BB)
Edelbrock air cleaner
Aftermarket fan
and a pair of those extend-a-mirrors for towing
350 engine block, #3970014 w/o steam holes
heads #333882
TH350 (silver paint, might have been rebuilt) PO said it was a TH400
2 cams
2 boxs of internal engine parts
2 torque converters
2 carb spacers
2 fan shrouds (SB and BB)
Edelbrock air cleaner
Aftermarket fan
and a pair of those extend-a-mirrors for towing
38 days left and counting...... I like that. Nothing like a goal posted in the public domain to force you to stay focused. 
If you want an opinion about how to proceed, here's mine:
Take the time to write a thorough list of everything you want to do to the truck before the event. THEN, break the list into two categories: "REQUIRED" and "DESIRED"....
Within those lists you can prioritize the activity, and the largest REQUIRED item should be done first. If it's going to take the most hours, there's no point in putting it off. Work the list from top to bottom, and don't move to lower items until everything above it on the list is either done, or forced to wait due to parts that haven't arrived, machine work that's being farmed out, etc.
Don't even TOUCH the "DESIRED" list unless the "REQUIRED" list is done.... by definition, you don't need them for the trip and my guess is that the other list is going to be pretty long anyway.
If you dare, post up the lists here.... we might have some suggestions about which steps can be combined or ways to make it go faster.
A lot of people like to ignore the planning stage and just jump right into the project, but I can tell you that if you've never sat down and written a detailed plan, you'll grossly underestimate the amount of steps (and time) that will be required, and odds are good that you'll miss the deadline by a mile.
Good Luck and keep posting progress.....(just not TOO much, you should be in the garage working!)
If you want an opinion about how to proceed, here's mine:
Take the time to write a thorough list of everything you want to do to the truck before the event. THEN, break the list into two categories: "REQUIRED" and "DESIRED"....
Within those lists you can prioritize the activity, and the largest REQUIRED item should be done first. If it's going to take the most hours, there's no point in putting it off. Work the list from top to bottom, and don't move to lower items until everything above it on the list is either done, or forced to wait due to parts that haven't arrived, machine work that's being farmed out, etc.
Don't even TOUCH the "DESIRED" list unless the "REQUIRED" list is done.... by definition, you don't need them for the trip and my guess is that the other list is going to be pretty long anyway.
If you dare, post up the lists here.... we might have some suggestions about which steps can be combined or ways to make it go faster.
A lot of people like to ignore the planning stage and just jump right into the project, but I can tell you that if you've never sat down and written a detailed plan, you'll grossly underestimate the amount of steps (and time) that will be required, and odds are good that you'll miss the deadline by a mile.
Good Luck and keep posting progress.....(just not TOO much, you should be in the garage working!)
Oh how true...I learned quickly about the required and desired when i started thinking of my deadline to get it running for memorial day weekend.
I had to break the project up into phase one and phase 2. Phase 2 is mostly all the stuff i want but dont need yet. Good luck man, i hope you make your deadline.
I had to break the project up into phase one and phase 2. Phase 2 is mostly all the stuff i want but dont need yet. Good luck man, i hope you make your deadline.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Day 37: It's raining. The cold miserable kind...
Can't get any work done in that, so out came the credit card. Didn't know plastic can glow red hot w/o melting...
From Summit:
Painless wiring kit #PRF10206
Superwinch hubs
60" Hi-Lift jack
From ORD:
4" EZ ride front springs
4 1/2" rear shackle flip
Greaseable bushings all around
12 1/2" Tuff Country shocks (start cheap, better ones with correct travel later)
Front shock mount kit (front shocks were only 8 1/2" of travel)
Steering box brace kit
Dropped pitman arm
Braided extended brake lines
The only other part I might need is the 2 3/4" U-bolts. ORD didn't have em.
If it rains again tomorrow, might have to just work on my tubing bender.
Can't get any work done in that, so out came the credit card. Didn't know plastic can glow red hot w/o melting...
From Summit:
Painless wiring kit #PRF10206
Superwinch hubs
60" Hi-Lift jack
From ORD:
4" EZ ride front springs
4 1/2" rear shackle flip
Greaseable bushings all around
12 1/2" Tuff Country shocks (start cheap, better ones with correct travel later)
Front shock mount kit (front shocks were only 8 1/2" of travel)
Steering box brace kit
Dropped pitman arm
Braided extended brake lines
The only other part I might need is the 2 3/4" U-bolts. ORD didn't have em.
If it rains again tomorrow, might have to just work on my tubing bender.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
quick hint on the greasable bolts. The grease gun fitting can pull the nipple thats pressed into the bolt right off if you just pull it straight off. When you're done greasing them, bend the hose to the side to pop it off.
If the fitting does come out, it doesn't want to stay back on even if you press it back in. I'm going to have to tap the bolt that I did that to and install a new nipple.
If the fitting does come out, it doesn't want to stay back on even if you press it back in. I'm going to have to tap the bolt that I did that to and install a new nipple.
- Joined
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- Posts
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- Reaction score
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Good score on the rig! I get up to Canon every couple months, I will have to keep an eye out for it.
Welcome and yes that credit card can take several red hot runs before the credit limit is exceeded and you need a different one!
Welcome and yes that credit card can take several red hot runs before the credit limit is exceeded and you need a different one!
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Dang Greg- missed your post last night- but funny you should mention a list. Thats what I did the last couple days, and think I covered everything, so here goes: (* denotes completed)
Install bodymounts (can pry do before work)
Get motor running (have a engine test stand)
* Remove frontend (easier access)
* Patch firewall (will be too wet, and drafty if I dont)
* Replace windshield (easier access, call Novus, already have seal)
Replace heater core (and clean out the leaves)
Install motor
* Flush gas tank (unknown condition and floaties)
Flush lines (same as above)
* Radiator (might have one laying around, or buy new)
Transmission (clean, inspect, replace any leaky seals)
Transfer case (same as above)
Axle fluids (as time permits)
Exhaust (Shorty headers and a Dodge truck 2.5 inch
system, new, will need the pipe bent between the
two to connect)
Brakes (flush and replace as necessary)
Wiring (MIGHT be fun. It scares me)
Fix Hatch (handle is on the passenger seat)
Build bumpers (two or three chunks of tubing just to get legal. Or a
chunk of wood with the routered edges for a 70's
touch
Most of this is dependent on the weather. My two garages are not near as organized as yours. I could win an award for Most Cluttered or Most Efficient Use of Available Space. I actually organized a couple weeks ago, and just filled the space up with ever more parts and tools... I haven't hid any parts under the bed in a while, so that may be an option...
Install bodymounts (can pry do before work)
Get motor running (have a engine test stand)
* Remove frontend (easier access)
* Patch firewall (will be too wet, and drafty if I dont)
* Replace windshield (easier access, call Novus, already have seal)
Replace heater core (and clean out the leaves)
Install motor
* Flush gas tank (unknown condition and floaties)
Flush lines (same as above)
* Radiator (might have one laying around, or buy new)
Transmission (clean, inspect, replace any leaky seals)
Transfer case (same as above)
Axle fluids (as time permits)
Exhaust (Shorty headers and a Dodge truck 2.5 inch
system, new, will need the pipe bent between the
two to connect)
Brakes (flush and replace as necessary)
Wiring (MIGHT be fun. It scares me)
Fix Hatch (handle is on the passenger seat)
Build bumpers (two or three chunks of tubing just to get legal. Or a
chunk of wood with the routered edges for a 70's
touch
Most of this is dependent on the weather. My two garages are not near as organized as yours. I could win an award for Most Cluttered or Most Efficient Use of Available Space. I actually organized a couple weeks ago, and just filled the space up with ever more parts and tools... I haven't hid any parts under the bed in a while, so that may be an option...
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RudyO
1/2 ton status
70Jimmy, I run with RockSolid. I know the run is June 07, and I wanna say its Danners (?) Last year they started with about 10-15 vehicles and got up to 50 or so with people joining in. Was a real good, casual run from what I hear.
Also, Blossom Festival is starting, and the club is taking an active roll in it. We built a ramp and it should be set up near Territorial.
Also, Blossom Festival is starting, and the club is taking an active roll in it. We built a ramp and it should be set up near Territorial.
That's a good list....
Pulling the front clip is a smart move, there are only a handful of bolts to deal with and access to the entire front end is SO much easier. If more people knew that secret, I'm sure everyone would spend the 30 minutes to save hours and hours of inefficiency. Of course, you'll need to find room to store the clip once you pull it......maybe the guest room?
If you haven't already been warned about it, do NOT go wheeling with the hardtop on. If the trail starts to get more than a little twisty, it's going to wreak havoc with that top and crack it unmercifully... BTDT. Leave it at the trailhead or campsite if you can. Softtops are where it's at on these trucks. The only exception would be if you had a STOUT rollcage tied to the frame. That would give you enough torsional stiffness to run a hardtop without damage....but I think you're still a ways off on that one.
Another good rule of thumb is to build with the following 3 priorities (in this order)
Safety
Reliability
Performance
Another key thing will be to have at least one good recovery point (front and rear) that can be used to winch you out if you get stuck. You don't want to have to use a factory crossmember or leafspring as a pull point (bad idea on both). If you're making simple bumpers, just make sure you've got a clevis on it for a D-ring.....and bring your own recovery strap. It's tacky to ask someone else to pull you out AND use their own equipment to do it.
Pulling the front clip is a smart move, there are only a handful of bolts to deal with and access to the entire front end is SO much easier. If more people knew that secret, I'm sure everyone would spend the 30 minutes to save hours and hours of inefficiency. Of course, you'll need to find room to store the clip once you pull it......maybe the guest room?
If you haven't already been warned about it, do NOT go wheeling with the hardtop on. If the trail starts to get more than a little twisty, it's going to wreak havoc with that top and crack it unmercifully... BTDT. Leave it at the trailhead or campsite if you can. Softtops are where it's at on these trucks. The only exception would be if you had a STOUT rollcage tied to the frame. That would give you enough torsional stiffness to run a hardtop without damage....but I think you're still a ways off on that one.
Another good rule of thumb is to build with the following 3 priorities (in this order)
Safety
Reliability
Performance
Another key thing will be to have at least one good recovery point (front and rear) that can be used to winch you out if you get stuck. You don't want to have to use a factory crossmember or leafspring as a pull point (bad idea on both). If you're making simple bumpers, just make sure you've got a clevis on it for a D-ring.....and bring your own recovery strap. It's tacky to ask someone else to pull you out AND use their own equipment to do it.
I doubt anyone is even close to competing with me on that.
Having 2 homes (at least for now) with each a 3 car garage and RV access with plenty of room and a shed in the back for more covered storage (21'x14' shed) I have no room to stick a finger, and finally after a few years cleared enough space so my wife can park her civic in the garage.
I have vehicles inside with parts on shelves, on top of the vehicles, under the vehicles and tools all over.
Someday I willlearn to keep less stuff and be able to work inside my garage.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Day 36: Only sprinkling today. Slept late.
Soaked the body mount bolts (and myself) in PB Blaster last night. Working on the front end removal. Garage is too crammed. RV is filled. Back of parts hauler still full of JY loot. That leaves the basement again. If I had a generic shell of a car, I could put a complete running one together with all the parts stashed down there. Think I can get the frontend parts to fit though.
If I had more space I would just fill it up again anyway, lol.
Got a strap, Hi-Lift is on order, and will be building the bumpers with a lil recovery in mind. Got the D-rings also. Well, actually three- one is off a tank. Are the frame horns typically cut and squared for installing custom bumpers? Or are they built around em?
Thx for the tip about the top- didn't know that.
Iceman, I have no shame in accepting a 2nd or 3rd place ribbon,
Soaked the body mount bolts (and myself) in PB Blaster last night. Working on the front end removal. Garage is too crammed. RV is filled. Back of parts hauler still full of JY loot. That leaves the basement again. If I had a generic shell of a car, I could put a complete running one together with all the parts stashed down there. Think I can get the frontend parts to fit though.
If I had more space I would just fill it up again anyway, lol.
Got a strap, Hi-Lift is on order, and will be building the bumpers with a lil recovery in mind. Got the D-rings also. Well, actually three- one is off a tank. Are the frame horns typically cut and squared for installing custom bumpers? Or are they built around em?
Thx for the tip about the top- didn't know that.
Iceman, I have no shame in accepting a 2nd or 3rd place ribbon,
Have fun with those body mount bolts. Alot of people here have said that 2-4 of thiers were tack welded. Every single one of mine were tack welded at the top of the bolt. Luckily half of them were so old that they crumbled with half a crank of a breaker bar.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Day 35: Indecision sets in...
Well, the front end is blown apart. It took about three hours, working in the dark with misplaced black wrenches. Today I start on the body mounts. The two under the radiator support were easy as they were not even rusted. Probably from the eighth inch of oil collected on the bottom of the radiator support.
Like the hack job on the wheelwells and battery tray support?
Indecision is from what to do with the heater. This is supposed to be a "down and dirty" rebuild. I'm missing some of the A/C parts and I want OBA anyhow. Summit has the Mohave kit for $202.00 and their own kit which is cheaper, flows more, and has a higher BTU.
I'm guessing I should just replace the heater core for right now, and just get her going. I'm thinking an aftermarket heater will take mods that I don't have time for?
Also got a habit of cleaning and repainting parts as I go. That's taking a lil effort not to do, lol.
Well, the front end is blown apart. It took about three hours, working in the dark with misplaced black wrenches. Today I start on the body mounts. The two under the radiator support were easy as they were not even rusted. Probably from the eighth inch of oil collected on the bottom of the radiator support.
Like the hack job on the wheelwells and battery tray support?
Indecision is from what to do with the heater. This is supposed to be a "down and dirty" rebuild. I'm missing some of the A/C parts and I want OBA anyhow. Summit has the Mohave kit for $202.00 and their own kit which is cheaper, flows more, and has a higher BTU.
I'm guessing I should just replace the heater core for right now, and just get her going. I'm thinking an aftermarket heater will take mods that I don't have time for?
Also got a habit of cleaning and repainting parts as I go. That's taking a lil effort not to do, lol.
Looking good, almost looks exactly like my build thread now, ha ha. Your core support looks decent other than the tray, but if you need a new one and cant get a good one from a junk yard then the one from LMC is actualy pretty nice and sturdy.
I ended up ripping everything to do with the heater and AC out of the truck. The Dan Hard heater isnt a bad option and isnt too pricey. It located everything under the dash and i am pretty sure all you have to do is run the coolant lines to the radiator just like you would with the stock heater core. I liked the idea of having that big nice open space on my firewall instead of black plastic pieces sitting there.
I think i am going to skip in a heater for the 100% humidity summer and when it cools down get either a DanHard or Mojave heater.
Good luck again on those body mounts, its not hard but annoying if they are all tacked in there.
I ended up ripping everything to do with the heater and AC out of the truck. The Dan Hard heater isnt a bad option and isnt too pricey. It located everything under the dash and i am pretty sure all you have to do is run the coolant lines to the radiator just like you would with the stock heater core. I liked the idea of having that big nice open space on my firewall instead of black plastic pieces sitting there.
I think i am going to skip in a heater for the 100% humidity summer and when it cools down get either a DanHard or Mojave heater.
Good luck again on those body mounts, its not hard but annoying if they are all tacked in there.
RudyO
1/2 ton status
15 minutes on all eight body mount nuts, with no breakage. The two 13/16s in the cab were welded half way around. Used a die grinder to take down the weld, a dremel to clean it up, then an impact wrench. Took about 15 minutes per bolt. Unfortunately I gotta go to work so the six in the back are for tomorrow. And I misplaced my new set... Wasn't in the RV with the sheet metal, but I was ogling the package, so might have laid it somewhere, lol.
Glass guy is coming on Thursday. I got a new seal from LMC, but think I will pull the windshield and clean it up. That will give me a chance to spray the window frame Rustoleum Orange and the top of the dash tan. So that means it will be severe thunderstorms til after the glass guy leaves.
Only have surface rust on the radiator support, but did grab a extra one when I was JYing. The original is actually in better condition. I thought I read somewhere that the aftermarket supports tend to crack after about a year of use (unknown company)?
Glass guy is coming on Thursday. I got a new seal from LMC, but think I will pull the windshield and clean it up. That will give me a chance to spray the window frame Rustoleum Orange and the top of the dash tan. So that means it will be severe thunderstorms til after the glass guy leaves.
Only have surface rust on the radiator support, but did grab a extra one when I was JYing. The original is actually in better condition. I thought I read somewhere that the aftermarket supports tend to crack after about a year of use (unknown company)?
RudyO
1/2 ton status
Days 34 - 32: Nothing done due to work scheduling that left me with 5 1/2 hours of sleep in two 1/2 days.
Windshield installed and some parts arrived. Unfortunately the gasket I got from LMC is for the windshield that mounts chrome trim. Luckily my old gasket was still good.
Windshield installed and some parts arrived. Unfortunately the gasket I got from LMC is for the windshield that mounts chrome trim. Luckily my old gasket was still good.
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RudyO
1/2 ton status
Day 31:
Dropped the tank this morning and made a list to spend $$ locally (battery, gaskets, fuel line, heater core, sending unit, etc)
Boiling out the tank will run $50-$75 and I needed a nipple replaced. Also ordered a HD radiator while I was there.
Got about seven gallons of old gas I need to strain and slowly burn off through my 78 GMC. The old 454 should help with that. Using a fine mesh copper sheet of screen I found at Hobby Lobby.
Gotta figure out how those three nipples run (left side, under bed).
Here's most of the parts. Got the Painless wiring kit, but a few of the items are on back order. Would hate to be a family member of the ORD guys at X-Mas, lol. The metal pieces had about a half inch of paper and tape around em. Yes, those are Ford pieces to the left.
Also, just chatted with the mailman. He saw the 72' and mentioned he was parting out a 68 and a 69 2wd, so gonna shoot over there and check what he has to offer.
Dropped the tank this morning and made a list to spend $$ locally (battery, gaskets, fuel line, heater core, sending unit, etc)
Boiling out the tank will run $50-$75 and I needed a nipple replaced. Also ordered a HD radiator while I was there.
Got about seven gallons of old gas I need to strain and slowly burn off through my 78 GMC. The old 454 should help with that. Using a fine mesh copper sheet of screen I found at Hobby Lobby.
Gotta figure out how those three nipples run (left side, under bed).
Here's most of the parts. Got the Painless wiring kit, but a few of the items are on back order. Would hate to be a family member of the ORD guys at X-Mas, lol. The metal pieces had about a half inch of paper and tape around em. Yes, those are Ford pieces to the left.
Also, just chatted with the mailman. He saw the 72' and mentioned he was parting out a 68 and a 69 2wd, so gonna shoot over there and check what he has to offer.
