I really don’t know much either? This is just one of the things I noticed when I scrapped my CC.
CK5
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Rumble Bee. (Getting cannibalized for the greater good)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
I see a lot of hydraulic assist kits that have just a ram, mount tabs, and hoses. If I already have hydraulic brakes, isn't there drilled and tapped caps for my steering box that I can buy? I thought DIY4X sold them but I can't find em on the site.
I'll ha e to do some reading on assist setups on here
I'll ha e to do some reading on assist setups on here
I drilled and tapped the end cap and the adjustment cap on top. Never had any problems other than I ran the tap too deep into the end cap and it caused a clearance issue but other than that it works great. But yeah you can buy the end cap that is tapped. I can get pics of mine if you want?
I was going to do a rebuild on my 2wd box while it's out. So I can just tap that one when I do it. Then just add hydro when I do crossover. Seems like there's a bunch of different stroke sizes used by different kits. All the way from 4.75"- 8". I'll measure mines travel lock to lock and get one as close to that as I can.
I can’t remember the bore of mine but I know it’s an 8” stroke. The bigger the bore the slower it will be but stronger. Smaller bore will be more responsive but less power. After using my bigger bore cylinder I’m convinced that a smaller bore is plenty for the average guy. I could move the front of my truck over if I was up against something with 42s but it was a little sluggish.
Most are 1.5" bore. 1.75" for more force. The DIY4X kit has a short stroke for some reason.. not sure why. I was worried about too much stroke messing things up by putting too much pressure on the knuckles. Heard that's a thing
. But I'm sure it can't be that big of deal or they wouldn't use those cylinders lol
. But I'm sure it can't be that big of deal or they wouldn't use those cylinders lol
Not sure if this is right but I’d think as soon as the box is maxed out it should bypass and quit feeding the ram? But like I said I’m not sure? Haven’t had any issues with mine and I’ve been using the same setup since 2007 on my crawler. One thing I’d recommend is royal purple PS fluid. Regular fluid will nuke your pump in no time. The purple stuff works great though.Most are 1.5" bore. 1.75" for more force. The DIY4X kit has a short stroke for some reason.. not sure why. I was worried about too much stroke messing things up by putting too much pressure on the knuckles. Heard that's a thing
Here are a couple links for you. This is where I got all my info when I put mine together.
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/c799...6b6919b2afb.docx?dn=upgrade saginaw pump.docx
https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor/blank
Spend the $30 on DIY’s end cap. I didn’t and cracked my end cap in half while driving. That’s was scary.
See I skipped right over that... I thought the pic looked like the NPT bung next to it. So I never read it lol... But I thought they had 2 of em. Says you still have to tap one yourself.... That's ok I guess though.
Tapping the top cap was super easy.
Must have hit the fitting?
Nope, just driving down the road.
That’s crazy. Mine has been drilled and tapped with my pump cranked up for a long time. The only reason it broke the first time is because the wormgear hit it and tried to push it out the end of the box.
It was odd for sure. Split almost perfectly in half. Sprayed fluid everywhere. Dead in the water without fluid in the power steering and 36’s.
That sounds just like what happened to mine. Had the 4x4 outpost in Moab cut a piece of plate to replace it but that’s when I realized what had happened. That cap is domed for a reason. It has enough power to bend 1/4” plate. Lol
