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Running HOT!!!!!!!!

you have a valid point and it is well taken, in my opinion i think a 15 year old radiator in a truck with a $3000.00 dollar motor is not a good idea? even if it is flushed and cleaned, new is the way to go in my opinion? granted the $$$ spent could be helpful elsewhere.and some peoples resources are limited, this could be a factor in how things are done too. PS still haven't got the smaller alt pulley .good luck /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
 
Even a 15 YO radiator could be good if it was taken care of right. Of course reality is that its more than likely garbage if that old, but it also could have been replaced already. All I'm saying is, use good judgement in doing these sort of things. No reason to toss a radiator that a PO put in just before you bought it : )
 
BTW, did you order your pulley and how long ago? Ordered mine Wednesday : ) S&H was more than the pulley itself lol.
 
they sent me the wrong one so i had to ship it back?? it arrived last saturday sent it back on monday so i guess maybe this tue or wed ???? that 2 inch pulley is real samll??? /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
 
WOW, lots of good posts here. Funding is not an issue with this project, whatever the truck needs the truck gets however, money is still money. I am also in the UK so there is no good parts store just down the road so everything has to be shipped.

I took the t-stat out for the 15 mile drive home and the truck never got over 100 degrees the whole drive home. I am going to boil the t-stat and see what happens. I may also salvage the old t-stat from the 305 and see how that works.

I'm still a bit unsure what the problem is, but I have all day tomorrow to work on it.

Thanks again to all. I'll keep you posted.

Mike
 
I'd say t-stat. The radiator does all the cooling, if it was not doing its job, even without a thermostat, it would overheat.

The engine never stops producing heat, except when off, so if the temp dropped with no t-stat, it's likely the stat is at fault, and VERY slightly possible that the extra flow allowed by removing the stat helped a partially clogged radiator do a better job.

I've been there, done that, if the radiator is bad, at idle, you will quickly overheat. Same thing with a bad t-stat, but removing it of course will solve the problem.
 
Well, I tried a second t-stat, the one out of the old engine. The engine still runs really hot when the RPM's go up. I drove it around all day to day again with no t-stat and never got over 100 degrees. I'm wondering if the truck starts running lean when it gets up to operating temp and the computer kicks in, causing it to run hot under acceleration. I don't know. My next step is to put it on an analyzer and see whats going on.

I also need to check the fuel pressure, any ideas on an easy way to do this?

Thanks,

Mike
 
I would *think* that if something is going on closed/vs open loop, a code would be thrown...

I guess thats an intriguing thought, closed loop is over 160* (or thereabouts) and if you never reach that, it won't go into closed loop. Not sure how it could run so hot though (like being lean) without causing some other kind of noticeable problem like pinging or something similar.

I've heard of fan clutches going bad and causing grief at cruise RPM's, and while it doesn't make a whole lot of sense, the individual swears a new fan clutch solved it. You shoud be able to hear the fan clutch "lock up" right after you start the engine in the morning. Pop the hood, and if possible, have someone start it while you listen. Should hear the fan roar as it comes on.
 
A 4-core aluminum radiator is really just cheap insurance against over-heating. It may be expensive but it is cheaper than a new set of heads. Put in a 180 degree thermostat, run the biggest lowspeed flexfan you can find (don't forget the spacer), or get a pair of electric PUSHER fans in front of the radiator. Make sure air is getting to the radiator in the first place. Check the fins, make sure they are clean and straight, do the same to any oil/tranny coolers you have, also the a/c condenser. Flush the system with a good flush kit, not the cheap kind you leave in the coolant. I went through all of this and mine won't get above 180 degrees even in 100+ weather.
 
Where can you find a 4 core aluminum for our trucks? Never seen a single one...if there were stock ones that bolted in, I'd be all over that. (when mine fails)

I have a feeling, and no conclusive proof, that if the pusher fan and puller fan speeds are not exactly the same, one will be restricting the other. I don't *personally* think pusher fans are a good idea if you can get by with adequate puller fans.

Flexfans are horrible. (if we are talking solid bladed and no clutch) Even if they don't throw a blade through your hood, or eat into the radiator at a water crossing, the unnecessary power drain and impedement of air flow at higher vehicle speeds make them pointless for use. Yes they are lighter than a clutch fan, and probably tend to increase consistency if racing (consistent drag on the engine, not on/off like a clutch fan) but either of those don't mean much on a daily driver, or a vehicle that spends a lot of time at low engtine RPM's.

I know flex fans work in some cases, but IMO, its not the flex fan that is doing such a great job, its the attention that has been lavished on the entire cooling system that is rewarded, the flex fan just happens to be along for the ride /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Totally off the fan topic here, (back to overheating in general) but aren't rapid engine temp changes associated with how much throttle is being given, sometimes attributed to bad head gaskets??
 
Sorry, 3 core aluminum. 2-core aluminum cools as well as a 4 core copper.
Puller fans work best as long as they are halfway in the shroud.
Flexfans are noisy, but they do make some for lower speeds, as long as you don't over rev past the rev limit of the fan then you should be okay. They dont take any more power away than than the clutch fan.
Rapidly changing temps could be timing, bad valves, exhaust leak, wrong spark plugs, running too lean, etc. There are a lot of things that could cause a motor to run hot. The extra cooling is just a stopgap measure, you need to addess what is making it run hot, which is most likely the more powerfull motor. The cure for which is better cooling.
If you are not using your a/c, pull out the condenser, that blocks most of the air for the radiator.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
They dont take any more power away than the clutch fan.


[/ QUOTE ]

Sure they do. : )

Clutch fan can stall, (thus the clutch) and at that point you are no longer beating the air with the fan blades when its not necessary. The "flattening" of the flex fans blades at higher RPM's also effectively blocks airflow through the radiator...either way its lose lose for the flex fan IMO...but thats me : )

Of course, like everything else, this power difference isn't going to be something you are going to feel or see in MPG changes, but every little bit hurts or helps.

I wholeheartedly agree on the AC system, pull the condensor if you aren't using it, it's a major airflow restrictions, especially if stuff is trapped between it and the radiator.
 
Whoops, forgot to ask this too...where can I get even a 2 or 3 core for these trucks? I'm not looking to spend $3-500 on a be-cool, just hoping someone is making the plastic/AL radiators for our trucks in the $150-200 price range!!
 
my baby's got a 4-core. Never had it even hint at overheating. But then again my engine is pretty close to stock.
 
But you *are* saying that there are (or were) AL radiators made for our vintage (73-91) trucks? I can't find anyone selling them if they still are sold. Never seen one in a 73-87 truck, but have also never seen an 87-91 "V" series truck in a 'yard either.
 
I've got a '90 V series Sub sitting in the driveway. It has a brass/copper radiator. No plastic other than the shroud. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
 
I got my 4-core copper rad. from radiator.com for $148 shipped to my door!

BTW Dorian - I took your advise on the electric fans. I put in TWO electric fans which I got from the local yard. Pulled them from a Taurus, and a Sable - both '90 models. These are the dual speed fans, with 3 leads (ground, lo, and hi speed.) I've got hi-speed on both fans triggered with a electric thermostat set at 195*... with a 30A breaker and 30A relay for each fan. Lo-speed is on regardless with the IGN switch. One is pushing, the other pulling... since I couldn't fit them both on one side of the rad!

Let me tell you - that thing can't break over 210* now no matter what! (210* I've been told is std. operating temp for my BBC) So thanks for the *ahem* "cool" advice in my other thread! And to think I ALMOST went to a water pump driven fan! And after everything was said and done, I only paid $53 for TWO Ferd fans, vs. $85 for the parts store "2200cfm" *BS!* fan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif

You da man! Thanks again!

-Dan
 
Sorry for the misconception. The only radiators that I know of put in by the factory are copper. I meant that you could go pull a copper radiator from a 1-ton. It would have more cores and cool better.
 
Yeah, I'm hoping that I can find one that bolts in thats an AL setup, since they cool better than an equivalent copper brass, but I don't think they exist.

The newer trucks use them, but the dimensions are about 1" smaller height/length wise. No biggie, but going to have to make brackets...have to make some for the electric fans anyways...hmm : )
 
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