Running out of accessory slots:

[vandelay industries]

What do you do when you run out of places to plug into at the fuse panel?

i'm thinking of adding some driving/fog lights, but no place to plug in at the fuse panel.....

 

[kennyw]

Add an auxiliary fuse panel that connects directly to the battery under the hood.

 

[Justin V]

Use a heavy duty relay fired by one of the accesory circuits with the auxiliary fuse panel

 

[mechted]

Add an auxiliary fuse panel that connects directly to the battery under the hood.

This exactly. The factory wiring on these trucks isnt the greatest when it comes to high power draw accessories. Single #10 runs half the truck in my case. You need to go to the battery for any significant loads anyway. I have one of these installed under the hood to run my electric fans, offroad lights, and headlights. Ran #4's from the fuse block to the battery, both positive and negative.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...508078561&sr=8-3&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

 

[vandelay industries]

Auxilary fuse panel seems like the way to go. But how do you control which circuits are always HOT vs. Key on only?

(Note: i think i'm ok with all the circuits being key on only and would actually prefer key on only.....)

 

[mechted]

Auxilary fuse panel seems like the way to go. But how do you control which circuits are always HOT vs. Key on only?

(Note: i think i'm ok with all the circuits being key on only and would actually prefer key on only.....)

Use relays- control them with either IGN power or a toggle switch from BATT in the cab. You can splice the "IGN" power line in the cab as much as you need for trigger controls, each relay control is milliamps of power

 

[AV8TER]

Auxilary fuse panel seems like the way to go. But how do you control which circuits are always HOT vs. Key on only?

(Note: i think i'm ok with all the circuits being key on only and would actually prefer key on only.....)

Key on only is easy. Run big wire from batt (I prefer a separate junction block as nothing looks tackier than a bunch of wires hooked to a battery) to a large relay. Out of relay to fuse panel. Control the relay with key on power. Turn on the key, relay powers up and closes. Fuse panel is now hot.

 

[KirsL]

I have one of these in my truck, very nice setup.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70217

They have both constant hot and ignition hot setups.

 

[dyeager535]

I'd definitely go with something as shown from summit if you even THINK you might add more things in the future that will need power.

Being able to run switched ignition AND straight battery voltage on the same panel are beneficial. Keeping the relays integrated with the panel is going to be a cleaner setup.

I am not a fan of screw clamp terminals for wiring. Don't care if the ends are tinned, wire is thicker, whatever, I don't trust them. Much prefer crimped terminals that lock into the panel.

Also might look into the "mini"(micro?) blade fuse panels if they are made aftermarket, can fit nearly twice as many on a panel as the older style as pictured.

Edit: These look pretty darn cool for retrofits: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/463...mDAwygCDogeQnsZZEgXfUMdV5LR1DKThoCw8UQAvD_BwE