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Rust converter then Herculiner?

markrazz

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Can I use a rust converter on interior to make sure to get any light rust and then roll on a bed liner?
 
I'm no body man but I have used a rust converter before, After it turned to "black primer" I was using a blow gun to clean out the dust etc and when I went across the converter it all blew off, it didn't adhere to the metal at all. I would not trust it as a base for any liner product.
 
I'm no body man but I have used a rust converter before, After it turned to "black primer" I was using a blow gun to clean out the dust etc and when I went across the converter it all blew off, it didn't adhere to the metal at all. I would not trust it as a base for any liner product.

X2. Only use it for rust that you can’t remove mechanically.
 
So for surface rust sand then prime before the herculiner
 
Yes - sand / wire wheel / whatever it takes to remove ALL of the rust, then primer. I have a Raptor Liner kit (not sprayed yet) and it actually specified "self etching" primer so check the product you're using for requirements.
 
Well I was planning on getting either Raptor spray or herculiner today and decided rolling is just was less messy than spraying so unless there is a better option for roll on herculiner seems like the go to for me.....
 
Make sure you prep it really well. Hit any bare spots with self etching primer. I can tell you it comes up really easy if it isn't prepped properly.
 
What is self eching primer ?
Avaliable at any car store never heard or it
 
Get to Bare metal, then zinc chromate, then topcoat. Read the liner instructions for best results.
 
I noticed the self etching primer has a slightly gritty texture when dry rather than smooth like "regular" primer.
 
We used to use self etching primer for stuff that was being worked on for a while. Protected while it sat exposed. Stuff is weird when you clean up. It is definitely best to use it in a spray can. I want to check out this zinc chromate though
 
Rustoleum makes self etching primer in spray cans, in fact that’s what I use.

I was taught that rust reformer type products are only good at converting the rust to paintable metal— not good for bare metal or painted surfaces.

I did my floor this past summer. I only used the spray rust reformer on places where I couldn’t get that last bit of rust, usually being in the middle of a flat surface. I made up this procedure on my own based on tons of reading I did. I don’t have a spray gun or compressor so it was all done by hand. Self etching primer spray, then two coats of flat Rustoleum paint, one coat of Evercoat 1348 rubberized undercoating, then one coat of some brush on bedliner whose name escapes me (about $46 on Amazon). Came out great, nothing has chipped, just the last two steps each took about a week to dry and/or stop smelling very strongly.

I’m far from an expert, I just love to read and research and I wanted to keep it inexpensive (not cheap!) and simple.
 
We used acetone for clean up after spraying. When poored into the cup with etching primer the primer looked like a ball if string. And it was gummy as all get out
 
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We used acetone to ckean. When poored into the cup with etching primer the primer looked like a ball if string. And it was gummy as all get out

What other options are recommended instead of ACETONE to clean off metal after sanding I’ve heard it burns, smells, ect.
Is there a less toxic option that does still get the job done?
 
So I sanded over the last couple days and decided to use the rust converted and let it sit for a couple days..
The converter did turn any rust black so I believe it’s working BUT
I will prime with eching primer before applying the herculiner to make sure for a solid base ...

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So I sanded over the last couple days and decided to use the rust converted and let it sit for a couple days..
I will prime with eching primer before applying the herculiner...

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