I was checking out a problem with my seats not being so stable today and found some really disappointing rust problems. Under both seats, at the mounting holes has been eaten up with rust. The rest of the floorboards are okay, just under the seats. Has anyone had this problems and what a good way to repair?
CK5
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Rust under driver and pass seats
- Thread starter midwest
- Start date
I'd look a little closer, chances are that's not the only bad spot. Where the front seat belts anchor is a really bad spot, as is the tailpan area. I highly recomend pulling out the carpet and getting a really good look.
Repair is straight forward, just labor intensive and frustrating. You can buy repair panels for pretty much the entire truck at www.lmctruck.com or make your own as you go.
Rene
Repair is straight forward, just labor intensive and frustrating. You can buy repair panels for pretty much the entire truck at www.lmctruck.com or make your own as you go.
Rene
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
POR-15. Do a search here, there are a bunch of threads about it. I used it extensively and love it.
el diablo
Registered Member
More than likely you will find more rust if your mount areas are rotted through.
Only way to fix it is to cut out the affected areas and replace with new steel. Good thing about Chevy trucks is you can buy just about every piece of sheet metal to fix the problem areas. Bonus is they are cheap.
POR won't fix rusted through areas, it is a inhibtor and a preventative. You can use it to seal out minor surface rust, but other than that sheet metal needs to be replaced.
Only way to fix it is to cut out the affected areas and replace with new steel. Good thing about Chevy trucks is you can buy just about every piece of sheet metal to fix the problem areas. Bonus is they are cheap.
POR won't fix rusted through areas, it is a inhibtor and a preventative. You can use it to seal out minor surface rust, but other than that sheet metal needs to be replaced.
trailblazr81
1/2 ton status
LMC truck is a good place to get the panels. Believe you can get a free catalog. Also JC junkyard caries alot of replacement panels for pretty cheap. I cut out the old, hit everything with some under coating, used some sealent, then pop riveted the new floors in place. I then went back later and did a few spot welds.
mine was so bad i could stand behind the steering wheel.we didn't even unbolt the body just pulled it off with another truck.midwest said:
like was said LMC.mine was too far gone. if there was a product that disolved rust all there would have been left was tires and seat cushions.
Well LMC is awsome and everything, but I wouldn't go to them to buy body panels. I went to http://www.yearone.com and http://www.chevyduty.com.
Their body panels are really good reproductions. They fit very well, and aren't paper thin like some of LMC's stuff. Body panels is an area you want to spend more $$ on. Unless this just a trail rig then who cares.
Their body panels are really good reproductions. They fit very well, and aren't paper thin like some of LMC's stuff. Body panels is an area you want to spend more $$ on. Unless this just a trail rig then who cares.
Chevy305 said:
Decided to take some time and pull out the interior to get a real look at everything, OH BOY
. I have some work cut out for me, but I want it done right and am willing to spend the time and money on it. I did take your advice and dropped a little over 400 on interior floor panels and rockers today. Picked up everything from chevy duty. 2 rear bed floor panels, rear tail pan, 2 complete rockers, left side rear floor pan, left rear floor support.
Question: Is it possible to install all these panels with the new epoxy? Is it possible just to leave say,,,1/2" extra in the cutout for the panel to,or will it screw things up. Keep in mind, all these panels are under carpet. Also, what type material should I use on the bottoms of these panels to keep the rust at bay?
Weld them in...it's definitely the best way to do it IMO.
After the panels are all welded in use either "Rust Bullet" or "POR-15" to coat is all underneath.
Rene
After the panels are all welded in use either "Rust Bullet" or "POR-15" to coat is all underneath.
Rene
Well, gluing them in isn't a viable option IMO. Why spend the cash on weld in repair panels if you're plan was to half-ass the fix later. Might as well have flushed that money down the crapper instead...
Just my two cents.
Rene
Just my two cents.
Rene
tRustyK5 said:
Your two cents has gone a bit far, I was not looking for any smart ass comments. I am trying to get some input on the epoxy that body shops are switching to. If its better than welding, I would like to know.
uao85
1/2 ton status
Yeah I am going to have to agree with rusty here..........if your going to put down that kind of money to have brand new floor panels, why not spend the extra to get a decent used welder, some scrap to learn on, and some good ol por15, and do it right the first time. No glue, epoxy, fiberglass will stay forever...........atleast not any that I have ever seen, plus the sheer expense of buying that much of a high dollar epoxy, prepping it, and all would be more (costwise) than a welder and its associated costs, and then you will have to go back later anyways and redo all your work. plus if money for a welder is an issue, you can always get a nice used one, and resell it after your finished. BUT...........there is one last option. If your lucky, there will be another ck5 member in your area that would be willing to lend a hand. Just a thought.tRustyK5 said:
Remington
midwest said:
best of luck then...
Rene
uberbeans
1/2 ton status
The epoxys that are used in vehicle manufacture are done on the cleanest of laboratory type conditions with special metal treatments before hand. My opinion is that you should weld. This isn't such a problem because no one will be able to see any crappy, noob type welds (like mine) because they will be hidden. Plus then you can use a brushed on bed liner when you are done. I can relate to your problem. Before I did my body swap I ordered all the replacement panels to do the same repair. When I eventually saw the extent of the damage I re-thought my plan. Even with replaceing/welding the panels you may have to chase the problem again later. The body swap wasn't that hard. I can give you info on that. Time consuming, though. My two cents. Good luck.
Ok, Ok, Ok
I can take a hint
I will do whatever is needed to weld these panels in. I am going to check up town tomorrow to see if I can find someone that could help and a decent price. All in all, I REALLY appreciate everyones help here, it may have saved me a big headache
I can take a hint I will do whatever is needed to weld these panels in. I am going to check up town tomorrow to see if I can find someone that could help and a decent price. All in all, I REALLY appreciate everyones help here, it may have saved me a big headachegmcjimmy88
1/2 ton status
If you are looking to do the welding yourself look at http://www.harborfreight.com/. The have a few decent welders great for learning and at a good price. I Have one of their flux core mig's that I am currently replacing my pans with. If you want pics or anything let me know. Good luck with whatever way you decide.
ElectricGypsy
Newbie
I know I probably dont need to say it but I will anyway, If you weld in the panels yourself, be aware of the gas tank and lines while you are welding.
If you don't want to do it yourself, check with a local community college. Many have body shop classes that will take on the replacement for you as a class project.
If you don't want to do it yourself, check with a local community college. Many have body shop classes that will take on the replacement for you as a class project.
Thanks for all the help guys. I have gotten the panels from chevy duty and they look to be very good replacement parts. I am going to start with the tailpan and rear bed sections. But, I'm a bit nervous. I have to remove the bed from the middle of the wheel wells all the way back. This does include 4 body mounts that will be attached to nothing? Anyone have any tips that will help me jump forward on this project....
