CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rustoleum Paint Job with $75 Harbor Freight HVLP Turbine Gun

Big6ft6

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Posts
251
Reaction score
6
Location
Madison, WI
Hi all. I'd like to share my project that I'm having fun with and pretty proud of. If anyone hasn't heard of the "rustoleum" paint process for a cheap paint job see this thread.http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm
I"m doing the same thing, but hoping to speed up the process significantly by using a less than $100 self-contained HVLP turbine sprayer (no compressor needed!!) instead of the roller application.

I bought this 3/4T 89 Burb for $500 thinking I would use it as a beater and educational truck where I could experiement without worrying about ruining a nice valuable vehicle. I vowed to always try the cheapest way to fix anything that was wrong and fabricate solutions, instead of buy parts, any time I could.

Well, $5000+ later (long story..but sure you can all relate) I decided to tackle the rust. I bought some new sheet metal and practiced my welding. I had to fabricate a solution to create new inner wheel wells as mine were so rusted that using OEM metal wouldn't work. I did end up trying to covery my welds with some old POR-15 bondo stuff that had been in my garage for years. That was a mistake the result looked worse than my weld seams. So some of the nasty wrinkled-looking areas are not the paint, but my poor body working skills.

Then it came time to paint. I bought a Harbor Freight HVLP Turbine Kit for $65 (using 20% off coupon) and picked up some Rustoleum Regal Red enamel and went to town! All photos are before any wet sanding or buffing.

I used the smallest needle/nozzle combo that came with the gun, and mixed the paint 50/50 with mineral spirits. I've made plenty of mistakes...but I'm having fun. I'm also a huge POR-15/Chasis Coat fan..and while I had access I liberally coated every rusty surface I could with the stuff in hopes of slowing down future cancer.

I've edited this first post to include pictures from throughout the thread so people don't have to click through all the different posts to find pics of final results. There are update pics later on to show how pain is holding up.

Here is how it started
392227122.jpg

392227120.jpg


1) THis pic shows hwo I repaired the inner wheel wells using k5 wheel wells (not same as suburban) I used some angle iron across the bottom to create a 90 mating surface with the floor of the burb, after everything was coated with POR15 I bolted the wheel well assembly together to avoid creating welds in this rust-prone area.

392215384.jpg


2) Here was the fender repair, cheap repo fenders off rock auto for $38, welded these in. You can see the POR 15 liberally coated on the inside of everything.
392215388.jpg


3) Other panel repair, decided to try my hand at fabbing my own rust-repair panels with sheet metal I had laying around.
392215390.jpg


4) Masked along the factory two-tone line leaving the factory grey above.
392215392.jpg


5) This was after the 2nd or 3rd coat start getting solid color.
392215389.jpg


6) shows the surface dondition a few minutes after a coat was laid down, self-leveling (Also slow drying)
392215386.jpg

7) Final result
392252457.jpg

392263518.jpg

392263563.jpg
 
Last edited:
The only things that matter is that you are proud of it, having fun and learning. Looks good so far. I think I can speak for most of us here by saying, we like a lot of picts...
 
Thanks EIB8400.

When I bought this truck I really wasn't into the "truck" scene and more into muscle cars/hot rods. The truck was simply so I could move cars around on a flat bed. But I've become addicted and now subscribe to multiple off-road magaznes. (although have barely gone on a gravel road with my "off roading" truck)

What I like about the off-road/truck scene is there seems to be more of the "give it a try and see what works" mentality instead of the make the extreme stress of making things "perfect" for show cars etc. No one is afraid to cut half a truck off and weld something else on...and so on.

I'm happiest when I'm cobbling something together and using my welder and my tools and spending the least amount of money!! Even when it doesn't work I still feel good that I tried.

I'll definitly keep posting pics and lessons learned. This is a "rust-prevention" test..I want to drive this around this winter and see what happens to the por-15'd rusty spots as well as the paint.
 
Nothin' wrong w/ a rattle-can paintjob.....

My advice is to get some "Clearcoat in a can",
Spray 2 layers, buff it smooth, then 1 more layer+ buffing....

It'll prevent rust from comin' thru, and protect against general wear.
If you care that much. :D

It'll also be SHINY!!!!
 
Don't I get a little more credit than a rattle can job ??...it is at least a "modified" rattle can job becuase there were no rattlin' cans involved :D (although the paint is the same) and I shot it through a gun (no sore finger from holdin the rattle can button down)!! I started with a rattle-can of duplicolor and after 20 minutes and using an entire rattle can, I had about 1/2 a coat of paint on 1/2 a fender for $6.99! With the HVLP Turbine gun I bought I did all three sides of the truck in about 4 minutes for each coat and I'm still on my first $8.99 quart of rustoleum!

This is a gloss enamel and from the threads of read on those who've done the roller-applicaiton of thinned rustoleum, no clear is required for the gloss. After the final coat, wet sand with 1500 and then polish with a polishing compound and it comes out pretty amazing.

for those who are unaware of this "cheapo" paint process check out some of these pics!
http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
 
Last edited:
rolling and tipping a car takes a gazillion hrs of labor...
 
ryokin..I think you have off-roading on the mind! Rollin' and Tippin' :D...if I rolled or tipped my burb it would take more labor than I care to invest!
to upright it again!

I agree about the gazzillion hours, ...which is why I bought the hvlp turbine sprayer. The guys who roll on the rustoleum wet sand bewteen every coat. and it takes between 7-10 coats!! I don't have the time, so I'm just spraying and so far I think I've avoided the really aweful orange peel you start with when using a roller. But as I'm learning every paint job takes a gazzillion hours now matter how you do it if you want to be proud of it.

Here is the sprayer http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
392224888.jpg


I might even skip the wet sanding when I'm done, and just polish it. But so far the worst thing has been waiting 24-36 hours between coats (takes a while to dry)! I can't wait for it to be done!
 
Last edited:
thats the actual proper term for it.. I've been doing it on boats for 25 yrs...

make sure and post pics when your done... :D
 
I was worried about that...here I try to make a joke and actually just expose my ignorance. Judging from your work I figured there was a pretty high chance that you knew what you were talking about! I will keep posting pics for sure becuase my wife definitly doesn't care!! I need you guys to share my excitement (or dissapointment) with.

So what does the "tipping" refer to?
*edit*..just googled and see it means to using the "tip" of a brush to smooth out the imperfections from rolling" I love learning!! :)
 
I doubt you'll get any disappointment comments here. There are probably more rattle can $20 paint jobs per capita here than almost anywhere else. High end paint job means you bought name brand rattle cans...:haha:

My 90 Blazer is a similar situation for me. Body work practice, and paint eventually. Also doing a bit of a build along the way, I can't seem to help myself.

Rene
 
I was worried about that...here I try to make a joke and actually just expose my ignorance. Judging from your work I figured there was a pretty high chance that you knew what you were talking about! I will keep posting pics for sure becuase my wife definitly doesn't care!! I need you guys to share my excitement (or dissapointment) with.

So what does the "tipping" refer to?

it was a good joke... :D

thats the best way to do it.. you roll the paint on then tip it with a quality or foam brush... I do it when i have to..... I'd much rather spray, WAY less labor...
 
I don't think I"m going to be dissapointed...but I am a little worried about the fact I"m painting in such a poorly-lit garage. I don't have time or money to go buy more lights. But I'm worried that when I roll it out in the daylight...i'm going to see all the terrible imperfections!! I put another coat on a few minutes ago..and literraly one foot into my first pass with the spray gun a small moth flew down into my spray pattern and was blown into the paint!:doah: Oh well, evena moth in the paint will look 100 times better than the original 8 inches of rust around each wheel well!
392227122.jpg

392227120.jpg

392227119.jpg
 
I always have a pair of these on me when painting...

TWEEZER.JPG



you think they like paint, they really love gelcoat! :eek1: :haha:
 
Holy sh!t, I'm surprised you were able to narrow down make and model with that much rust! :yikes:

Rene
 
Yep...good idea. Tweezers would've worked WAY better than me grabbing the little bugger out with my nylon-gloved fingers.
 
Holy sh!t, I'm surprised you were able to narrow down make and model with that much rust! :yikes:

Rene

Yeah, well when I bought the truck for $500 I knew it was going to need an engine soon (had 209k miles and was smoking bad enough cars would stay way back).

So I was like..I can get a junker 350 for $300...then I"ll have capable 3/4 truck that will last forever for $800!! Then the fuel line started leaking over the rear axle...had to drop the tank...new sending unit...might as well epoxy the tank while it is down...then radiator started leaking...engine finally seized...engine project was WAY harder (and expensive) than planned...then towing my first heavy load (56 ford on a flatbed) tranny blew....well now I"ve got $2500 and bunch fo time...I figure if I replaced the tranny...I basically have a new truck:D So another $1600 later (I paid to have it done..fresh th400)..now I had a $4000 truck that nobody woudl buy from me for $1000. Then body parts started falling off, when I stop for gas if I noticed something about to detach, I just bend it back and forth a few times until it broke..and I'd toss it in the garbage at the gas station. Then I found these huge patch panels from Rock Auto for only $38 each and I wanted to practice welding...:pimp: the rest is history. Again WAY more work than planned..almost sold the truck for $750 when you could see the lawn from inside. But now I"m putting more money in it! Go figure!
 
I had to frame up braces to support new sheet metal
392227834.jpg

And cut stencils
392227826.jpg

And eventually bolted in inner wheel wells from a 91 k5 there wasn't enough metal to weld them in so I drilled holes and bolted it all together after coating everything with POR15.
392227831.jpg
 
If you are into muscle cars and hot rods a $500 truck is the best place to learn stuff, and if you fubar something it isnt near as costly to fix or replace(if it is a replaceable part) Either way lookin pretty good, and far better than mine.
 
Top Bottom