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sadly i have a heep question

buffblazer

buffblazer

1/2 ton status
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Jan 5, 2005
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Fort Collins Colorado
the girlfriend is in desperate need of a new vehicle. she really likes jeep wranglers and has her heart set on one. now she has about $8500 to spend and im finding some nice ones on craigslist in my area, but my question is, what is there to look out for on wranglers? any specific year better than the next? motor options? stuff that regularly goes bad on them? i havent really ever heard anything bad about them for reliability so i guess any imput would be great.
 
You might find a local Jeep forum and ask there. Lotsa folks here hate the things and/or just don't know much about them.
 
4.0l like to leak at the valve cover, and usually any engine on a jeep once it hits 100k will leak at the rear main, and it's a 2 piece so you do the oil pan too.
Also I have seen alot of them develop leaks inbetween the trans and t-case, but it is an easy fix just replacing the seals there.

I would just try to get as late a model as you can afford.
 
Also, SOME inline 4.0L have overheating issues...run the engine and check the engine temp when test driving. As stated, try newer years you can afford.

Good luck.
 
I have had many jeeps. You want the 97 or newer. They came with coil springs. The ride is so much nicer and the flex is much better. The SE models have the 4 cylinder and the sport has the I6. If you want AC you have to get the 6, but not all of them had it. Also, both motors are great for reliability, but the 6 will go 250,000 with good service. All the I4's came with the week Dana 35 rear. if you plan on bigger tires you should look for an I6 with the optional D44 rear. They all came with a Dana 30 front. The xfer case is the NP231. It is a good unit but for lifted jeeps it needs the Slip yoke eliminator kit for the rear. Let me know what else you need. I have lifted several of them in my garage. My Dad and Brother have 2006's.
DJ
 
The later YJ's and all of the TJ's ('97 and up) are pretty good. Get the 4.0L, the 4 cylinder will only get you another 1-2 mpg.

4.0L's are known for leaking valve covers and for cracked exhaust manifolds. I would try to find one with the D44 rear, the D35 is super weak and many people break them on the street with stock tires. I suppose there are probably a lot of them out there that survive ok on the street though, too. The D35 makes the 10 bolt look strong :haha:
 
Just look for one already done up already from the early 80's , you know a Chevy 350 and th350 in front of the D300 with the passenger side drop . Some even already have the full width axles in them too :thumb:
 
I like the CJ7s the most. 5s are nice but they are small and short in the tranny room. The CJ7s can have 304s or 360s and you could be lucky enough to find one with a T18 4spd low 1st gear trans.

The rear AMC 20 axles aren't the best but that was standard. There were a few years that had D40s in them but good luck with that one.
 
pauly383 said:
Just look for one already done up already from the early 80's , you know a Chevy 350 and th350 in front of the D300 with the passenger side drop . Some even already have the full width axles in them too :thumb:
Click to expand...

cuervo said:
I like the CJ7s the most. 5s are nice but they are small and short in the tranny room. The CJ7s can have 304s or 360s and you could be lucky enough to find one with a T18 4spd low 1st gear trans.

The rear AMC 20 axles aren't the best but that was standard. There were a few years that had D40s in them but good luck with that one.
Click to expand...

Sounds like this will be his girlfriend's DD fellas ;)
 
Havent heard about the valve cover breaking. I have a '98 TJ Sahara. Yes the factory exhaust manifold sucks untill the last few years when they went to a dual collector or changed the merge from 6-3-3-2-1 to 6-3-3-2-2 then to a Y then merge later.
As far as the early manifolds, run it untill it cracks and put a header on it. I did it was cheaper for the 304 Stainless one from Rugged Ridge.
D44 was a option that many didn't get, same with 4 wheel disk. The D30 isn't as bad as many believe. It is a turd thou. Same with the D35. The Furd 8.8 Exploder diff will bolt right in thou.
Check for A/C and heater core work. Step one for the evap? and heater core (they share a box under the dash) is to remove the dash in it's entirety. So do both at the same time.
Damn this was a long one, sorry.
 
Ive had overheating issues on two cherokees not sure if that is significant input both were right around 100k+ and they were both two gens back
 
Explorer 8.8's bolt right in? Maybe that explains why I never found one for cheap when I was looking for my Ranger :crazy:

Never understood why anything that'll work on a heep fetches so much :doah:
 
ya this will be a no wheel rig at all, stock tires no lift nothing. this is for her to get away from her pos van, and get into something with acceptable gas milage, can handle the colorado winter on the road, and she loves the looks. i been looking at a lot of 98-99 for her price range. any problems with the auto's
 
I was going to say...define acceptable...1999+ V8 Chevy half ton 4x4's get better gas mileage than my buddy's TJ...his wife's does regularly.
 
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