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Salvaged fresh from the trees, now what?

That is a great idea! For a second, I thought you took a picture of my XJ and edited it. I've got the kids seat and aftermarket deck in it too.

That really takes care of the other problem of where to locate the HiLift too. It probably doesn't make too much rattling noise either.
 
brockmub said:
That is a great idea! For a second, I thought you took a picture of my XJ and edited it. I've got the kids seat and aftermarket deck in it too.

That really takes care of the other problem of where to locate the HiLift too. It probably doesn't make too much rattling noise either.
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You've got a 2dr XJ too? Sweet! Don't see many of them, let alone wheelers!

With the handle isolator on it it's not bad at all. The foot rattles some and I've contemplated pulling the pin out that holds it on and getting a hitch pin to hold it in place like the one I use in the handle, but it's not bad. Just have to keep it tight or it will start squeaking on the tire.

A few times I've needed the extra space and have moved the spare to the roof rack. I've got some u-bolts I got at tractor supply also I use to attach the Hi-Lift to it as well.
 
Spring in South Dakota

Now that Spring has arrived on the Northern Plains, it's time to get out OLRUSTY. Dropped in the battery and she fired right up! Noticed that there was a pool of oil under the truck... Dang. I guess the "high-school-auto-tech-monkey" gasket replacement didn't get every leak. I love those kids for trying though. Drove the Blazer out to a field to check fences, stock dam levels, and safely drive while not endangering the rest of the world. There is still snow 3 feet deep in the creek beds. Crazy!

Poser pic...

2010-04-02%2013.26.44.jpg


After I took the pic, the grass looked soft, so I crawled under the truck to try and find the leak. Looks like Power Steering pump or hoses. My guess is the hoses. The high school kids did a good job after all.
 
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Has any one found major problems with the power steering pump or are there upgrades I should make while I'm working with it?
 
the pump will do just fine for what you are trying to do. i'd just replace or fix the leaky hoses.

there is always an upgrade. psc among others makes a pump to add a hydraulic assist ram to your steering. but spendy.

i would suggest taking the box off to check for frame cracks fix as necessary. if no cracks get an offroad design steering brace kit. to prevent cracks.
 
Checked out the pump and it was fine, just couldn't get it clean since it had 36 years of caked on grime. Checked the frame, looked just fine. I can always add the ORD steering brace at another time. Just wanted to get the truck rolling again and clean up the leaking oil.

Here's what I was surprised by how the pressurized hose was 2 bucks more than if I had needed to replace the pump (with core trade in of course). Is that weird or not? The other thing I was surprised by was how easy it was to get the pump out and back in. That has got to be the easiest work I have had on the Blazer so far. Maybe I'm getting better at this?

How about front brakes? Any advice on checking and replacing the front brakes? Every time I use them, I get pulled into the ditch.
 
if it pulls it might be good preventative maintenence to replace calipers and check out your drum brakes. any time a pad gets close to an 1/8" i start looking to replace them. with the drum brakes make sure all the components are still there. the axle i put in the sub was missing stuff out of the right side making that brake nonfunctional. hadn't really noticed any pulling on it though. if your fluid looks crappy replace it as well. it is all a pain, but these are brakes we're talking about here.

the calipers for a 44 are about 30something a piece if i recollect. if you are replacing calioers and pads i'd go ahead and turn the drums and rotors especially if they are grooved or have a lip on the edge.

if you don't have a haynes or chiltons manual get one. very helpful for recovering from brainfarts,
 
When you replace the calipers, also replace the hardware and the hoses. The stuff is cheap if you shop around.
 
Brakes... or somethings else

Finally getting around to replacing the brakes on OLRUSTY. Was going to work on the truck the other night so I ran a quick errand with the top off and drove it straight into the garage. After getting it on jack stands and getting all of my tools lined up and started taking off the hub cap. Then YIKES!!!! I nearly burned my hand on the hubcap!:eek1: The rim, caliper, disc and everything was so flipping hot, I had to switch to thicker gloves to get some of it off.

So... I'm planning on replacing the caliper, pads, and softlines. But do I have a problem somewhere else like a front bearing going out? If I'm doing the bearing should I do some other work as well?

Unrelated but worth mentioning, I completely ripped out the back interior of the Blazer. Carpet, side panels, house insulation?, and broken speakers. It seems to me that this is where the mice were living and deficating. This is in hopes that I will want to drive it more if it doesn't smell like an old barn. Then comes the soft top.
 
Just read this thread front to back, awesome stuff. I like the $1500/1500 mile idea.

Disc brakes get really hot because they are constantly causing friction, but I've found that something like what you describe usually means you have problems in the rear, and are overworking the fronts.

I bet those old drums haven't had shoes, been turned, or had the wheel cylinders rebuilt in 30 years. Everyone hates doing drums, the disc's spoil us, so we neglect them, haha
 
while you have it on stands, pull the discs off clean the hubs out and bearings, look for pits, burns, or scratches in the bearings, if damaged replace, they are cheap. it sounds like it has a bearing going out in the hub. they shouldn't be getting that hot.
 
Got the calipers and rubber brake lines replaced. Not too difficult but the left side that was hot had a really beat up caliper and piston. It took a long time to get off because the piston would not give. Put the new calibers on and started bleeding them out. Left side 3/8ths, loosen, tighten, done. Right side 3/8ths... wait a sec.... it's SMALLER. 5/16th, loosen, tighten, done. Has anyone ever had that before? The bleeder valves were different sizes on each side. The calipers were the same size and the same part number.

The parts store tried to make it right by giving me to new 3/8th bleeders. Nope... didn't fit on the small side. I might take the small one back and have them swap it out.

After taking the cover off the master cylinder, I noticed that the diaphragm didn't look right to me. What do you guys thing? A bit misshapen?

IMG_2668.JPG



Tried to bleed the brakes and took OLRUSTY for a drive. No brakes.

What am I missing? Bled them again. No brakes. HELP PLEASE!
 
the rubber is fine. i am guessing you bled the brakes the cover on and latched to the master cylinder, this creates a vaccuum pulling the rubber out. all you have to do is push it back in. i am sure you have probably figured this out already though.

i agree with usskoval, if the fluid isn't clear replace it.
 
It looks to me that the rubber is deformed and expanded... all the "circles" just look giant to me.
 
Got it

Brakes. Are. Done.

Swapped the calipers from left to right. Visually it makes more sense and I don't know why I didn't notice it. Those jackasses had them in the wrong box. When I went into the store, the guy said "I did it right, you did it wrong. It's your fault." "Why do you need matching valves, you'll only bleed the brakes once?"

Er.. I'm sorry, what did you just say? You (the local store that I don't want to name) screwed up my hoses originally, then gave me non-matching calipers and are going to say that it's my fault? Is it wrong to want things to match and be done the right way? I took my now matching caliper and left. I probably won't go back unless all of the other places in town also fail at giving out the proper parts.

The vacuum tool was the key for me to get them bled the correct way, just couldn't get it done the traditional way. The front calipers are good to go but after looking at the back drums, I'm a bit worried that they may need to be reworked eventually as well.

The front brakes are done, feel good and the truck is "safe" again.
 
Another long winter down and it's Spring time in SD. Today it's supposed to get into the 60s so most of the snow and ice should be gone.

When OLRUSTY got put away this fall, it was making a terrible noise and barely idling. It could be a simple fix of plugs or carb, but I'm ready for the next step in 4x4 ownership... the engine rebuild. Should start tearing it apart in the next month or so... will provide updates and pictures. But what parts do you all recommend for the engine rebuild?

Summit catalog here I come!!!
 
brockmub said:
When OLRUSTY got put away this fall, it was making a terrible noise and barely idling. It could be a simple fix of plugs or carb, but I'm ready for the next step in 4x4 ownership... the engine rebuild. Should start tearing it apart in the next month or so... will provide updates and pictures. But what parts do you all recommend for the engine rebuild?

Summit catalog here I come!!!
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If funds are available I would recommend a 383 build. Especially if you can get the HS kids to do the rebuild for you.
 
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