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Salvaged fresh from the trees, now what?

This is my first engine rebuild and I would like to do it myself. The 383 is enticing but I'm not sure I want to drop that much on my first motor. Having said that, I am planning on stripping the motor down to the block then taking it to a local machine shop. Then carefully replacing the necessary parts as well as installing some aluminium heads.

My original intentions of keeping this an ultra-low buck rig are over... I've had my fun and enjoyed the truck. Now I'd like to put a little more money into it, learn some things, and make it better.
 
brockmub said:
This is my first engine rebuild and I would like to do it myself. The 383 is enticing but I'm not sure I want to drop that much on my first motor.

My original intentions of keeping this an ultra-low buck rig are over... I've had my fun and enjoyed the truck. Now I'd like to put a little more money into it, learn some things, and make it better.
Click to expand...
A 383 isn't that much more expensive then rebuilding a 350. Search around the internet for 383 rebuild kits.
 
nsxxtreme said:
A 383 isn't that much more expensive then rebuilding a 350. Search around the internet for 383 rebuild kits.
Click to expand...

Ok, I will do more research. What are most guys doing when they rebuild their 350 block? What additions are the "must do" when the engine is pulled? Here's my list right now.

1. Strip and clean block - organizing and analyzing the original parts
2. Machining - Local shop has a good reputation
3. Replace worn parts
4. 400 Crank install
5. Intake and heads
6. Carb

Sure that list is pretty general but there are probably other places on this forum where a 350 or 383 build have been detailed. (feel free to link them) Do any of you go with kits from catalogs like Summit or entire brands such as Edelbrock? Which ones work well?
 
For engine kits, go with Northern. http://www.northernautoparts.com/

It's in Sioux City Iowa, so the parts will be to you the next day.

I would skip the 383. A 350 is just as good. Spend that money on heads instead. Vortec heads and a matching intake would be my suggestion. A 350 with good heads will make more power than a 383 with crappy heads.

Martin
 
82355 said:
For engine kits, go with Northern. http://www.northernautoparts.com/

It's in Sioux City Iowa, so the parts will be to you the next day.

I would skip the 383. A 350 is just as good. Spend that money on heads instead. Vortec heads and a matching intake would be my suggestion. A 350 with good heads will make more power than a 383 with crappy heads.

Martin
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But it won't make more power then a 383 with good heads ;)

The price difference isn't huge. Which is why if I had it apart I would do it. Increasing the displacement is one of the best and cheapest ways to make power on these old motors JMO.

I know if I had mine to redo I wouldn't hestitate to go the 383 route.
 
Meh. If you had to choose between spending the money on better heads or more displacement, the heads win.

Martin
 
The more I look into it, the more I don't think a 383 is the way I want to go. The complexities of a rebuild will be difficult enough the way it is. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, K.I.S.S. What should I look for in a rebuild kit, vortec heads, intake and carb?
 
Scoggin Dickey use to be the place to go for new Vortec head kits. There might be a better place now days. If some one knows of one, feel free to say so.

http://sdparts.com/

Their kits seem pricey, but they are very complete, and they come with all NEW components.

http://sdparts.com/category/sdpc-vortec-cylinder-heads-and-head-kits

From there, it depends on what cam you decide on. As for the engine kit, I would just order one from Northern. Are you planning on just a re-ring, or were you going to bore the block and install new pistons?

Martin
 
pace performance

I got my vortec heads for a 383 from pace performance, they were tapped for screw in studs, assembled with springs and valves, and the spring seats were milled for additional lift, I think the final price was around 500 dollars but watch out because then you need a new intake, bolts, also a new temp sensor and my factory AC would not bolt to the edlebrock performer intake even though it is tapped for it.
 
brockmub said:
The more I look into it, the more I don't think a 383 is the way I want to go. The complexities of a rebuild will be difficult enough the way it is. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, K.I.S.S. What should I look for in a rebuild kit, vortec heads, intake and carb?
Click to expand...

Thats a good approach to take, thats what i did for my 355 build. According to desktop dyno it should make 410hp. I went with heads over the stroker. I went with Patriot Peformance Freedom Series Aluminum heads. If i had even more coin, I would have gone AFR Eliminators.
 
brockmub said:
Ok, I will do more research. What are most guys doing when they rebuild their 350 block? What additions are the "must do" when the engine is pulled? Here's my list right now.

1. Strip and clean block - organizing and analyzing the original parts
2. Machining - Local shop has a good reputation
3. Replace worn parts
4. 400 Crank install
5. Intake and heads
6. Carb

Sure that list is pretty general but there are probably other places on this forum where a 350 or 383 build have been detailed. (feel free to link them) Do any of you go with kits from catalogs like Summit or entire brands such as Edelbrock? Which ones work well?
Click to expand...

what about an ls motor? You can have one in there and wired for between 1500-2500 bucks.


Aluminum heads, fuel injection, 360hp/380tq starting point.. if you ever blow it up... there are many out there add a cam and these are fun motors.
 
supersize75k5 said:
what about an ls motor? You can have one in there and wired for between 1500-2500 bucks.


Aluminum heads, fuel injection, 360hp/380tq starting point.. if you ever blow it up... there are many out there add a cam and these are fun motors.
Click to expand...

Lets be realistic $1500-2500 might be raw parts cost, but you gotta add in the tune to the computer, wiring, mounts, trans adapter spacer thingy, the entire fuel system, and every little bolt you'd never think of. Add in at least another $1K and you'd get closer to the actual cost of the swap. That puts you right at the cost of a pretty stout small block that directly bolts in using all your old accessories and wiring.

Not trying to discourage anyone, as the LS motors are sick and I would love to have one, but the rule of thumb for any major job like this is to add in 50% more money and 50% more time.
 
supersize75k5 said:
what about an ls motor? You can have one in there and wired for between 1500-2500 bucks.


Aluminum heads, fuel injection, 360hp/380tq starting point.. if you ever blow it up... there are many out there add a cam and these are fun motors.
Click to expand...

You know supersize, I've thought about a lot of different engine swaps. You open up any 4x4 mag and there's a 4.3 in a Jeep, 4bt in a Scout, or a LS in some truggy. It's really tempting since we have pretty good salvage yards around in SD. It's just not the route I want to go. This is my first build, something I want to learn from, something I want to get done this Spring, and not get tangled in a harness for months on end.

It just feels like it's the best bet to stick with the 350, clean and machine, then overbore if necessary. Looks like its just going to come down to what is the best cam, head, and intake combo for me. So far there have been several good suggestions on where to look for heads. How do I pair the cam, head and intake? Just look for a package?
 
After the block checks out, I should have a shopping list then. From what you guys are saying and I'm reading, it should look like this. Some parts might be duplicated in kits however. Just don't know which heads and cam to go with?

1. Engine rebuild kit - http://www.northernautoparts.com/ - $190
2. Vortec heads (assembled) - ??? - $???
3. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake - Edelbrock - $190
4. Cam - ??? - $???
5. Stock Carb or new Edelbrock 750 - $0 vs $280
6. GM Dress up kit - Proform - $180
7. HEI Distributor - GM - $200
8. Exhaust Headers 1 1/2" - $140
 
Did you follow my Scoggin Dickey links? A Vortec head uses a centerbolt valve cover, not a perimeter like the 1955-1986 Chevrolet small blocks use. So if you are ordering a "dress up" kit, keep that in mind. The centerbolts are much better, they are not as prone to leak.

These heads are good up to .450" lift and come with an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sd8060ag

This is the kit I would purchase. These heads are machined for more lift, and have upgraded springs and retainers. This kit comes with the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap as well.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sd8060aag

This is the same kit, but with a standard Edelbrock Performer RPM instead of a Performer RPM Air Gap, but cost $50 less.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sd8060arpm

As for the carb, I would stick with a Quadrajet.

Martin
 
brockmub said:
You know supersize, I've thought about a lot of different engine swaps. You open up any 4x4 mag and there's a 4.3 in a Jeep, 4bt in a Scout, or a LS in some truggy. It's really tempting since we have pretty good salvage yards around in SD. It's just not the route I want to go. This is my first build, something I want to learn from, something I want to get done this Spring, and not get tangled in a harness for months on end.

It just feels like it's the best bet to stick with the 350, clean and machine, then overbore if necessary. Looks like its just going to come down to what is the best cam, head, and intake combo for me. So far there have been several good suggestions on where to look for heads. How do I pair the cam, head and intake? Just look for a package?
Click to expand...


I hear and understand your reservations about the wiring and to be honest the hardest part about the wiring is ones self:thumb:

There only these wires on mine..

-ground
-12 volt ign
-12 volt constant
-power to fuel pump

then a check engine light and diagnostic port, for me the light is right on the the plug bracket.

Some harness's are also already prewired for electric fan control too

My gauges are all mechanical

add some weld on bungs and 02 sensors

if you run a th-350 you need a 40.00 spacer for your crank, for the motor you can make adaptor plates for the engine mounts or buy them online for around 45.00..other wise trans bolts up no issues. The pass frame rail will need a little grinder love though with stock manifolds.

For the fuel system you can do a retrofit with a efi blazer tank with a tpi pump, or you can do an inline pump. I run a stock 98-02 40.00 vette fuel pressure/regulator and a 100.00 holly pump. his way I only have one line going to the motor, the return is right off the regulator on the frame rail:thumb: Russel makes an fittings to make this all stupid easy and its plug n play on the intake/fuel log.

The reward is drivability, reliability, a easier engine to service and work on, 1 piece rear main, higher amp alternator, serpentine belt set up, lighter/smaller higher tq starter, intake designed for torque, decent rpms "some take stock blocks to 6500 with tune", aluminum heads, very free flowing stock exhaust manifolds... oh and the whole 360hm/380tq starting numbers before a tune or a bit of work is not bad too:D Id say with out a doubt it is a very easy conversion after you have a good reworked harness.



If you were to go with a bored 350 though I would find a good recommended package that others or a builder has had good success with.

Im not trying to pry at you, just I made the same reservations and once I finally did it I was amazed at how easy it actually was. i run a stock 6.0 with just a tune on my 07.. spins my 44's and has been happy living a life on the rev limiter non stop!
 
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