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sand drags

aknight_sa

aknight_sa

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 14, 2005
Posts
364
Reaction score
23
Location
Saudi Arabia
good day guys,

i want to start a build for the following:

i will be doing sand drags here some are normal drags from point to point and as well as going up sand dunes.

what i have right now is

1981 Jimmy with a stock BBC 454 engine
TH350 transmission trying to get a good deal on a TH400

remaining is stock (GM-12 bolt back and 10 bolt back)...

i also want to keep on using the truck for everyday driving (maybe some racing on the street as well)


give me your suggestions... as i want to blow off the competition with the Toyotas, Jeeps, and Nissans here.
 
How big of a tire are you looking at? Sounds like you have alot of things you want out of one truck.
 
Well I have never sand dragged but I know your gonna need a good sand tire and it sounds like your wanting big power from the 454.
 
i sure am wanting big power... but i want to look at all componants
from engine, torque converter, transmission, gears, axles, tires!!

everything from end to end!!
 
How about N2O? This would let you keep the engine fairly mild for daily driving but give you what you need in the drags. It's also relatively cheap.

Of course the more power you make the less the 1/2-ton axles will live. Since you will need 1 or 2 lockers anyway, and probaly new gears, you might as well look for bigger axles at the same time.

I think the selection of gear ratio will be critical, but somebody else will have to tell you what's ideal. This could have a big impact on a DD, especially since you won't have overdrive.
 
i would seriously think about a 14ff cause if you have big power you don't wanna be haulin down the track and break an axle and have it come out going at a decent speed. just my 2cents:D
 
I would run a semi float dana 60 or sf 14 bolt they have plenty of strength and save weight we run 3.73 gears with a 33inch tire and we have had good results so far
as for the motor NOS is cheap power without the sacrifice of reliability
traction bars are also very important. you have alot of options but we prefer cal trac bars often found drag cars. they are about 200$ but well worth it. great build sounds very similar to what we are doing!!!:D
 
X2 on the above posts on 14 bolt axle. If you want to run c clip axles 10 bolt ,12 bolt, in the rear get a c clip eliminator kit. Loosing an axle at speed and under power with a locker and paddles is not fun..
 
Are you going to be running paddles?

If not i dont see a need for a 14 bolt at all. Its sand, the tires are just spinning.

I am running a 10 bolts front and rear in my race truck for reduced weight. Both axles have auburn posi's front and rear.

As for tires I am running 33" mud terrains.

Now for the power deparment. Make as much as you can. Wheel speed is key in the sand. My truck has dyno 585 at the rear wheels. The truck is able to get enough wheel speed to stay on top of the sand and go.

If you any questions I will be happy to answer it.

And of course I can resist throwin up a pic

track4.png
 
What are the biggest paddle tires anyone can buy to fit 15" or 16" wheels?
 
JDNobodi said:
I would run a semi float dana 60 or sf 14 bolt they have plenty of strength and save weight we run 3.73 gears with a 33inch tire and we have had good results so far
as for the motor NOS is cheap power without the sacrifice of reliability
traction bars are also very important. you have alot of options but we prefer cal trac bars often found drag cars. they are about 200$ but well worth it. great build sounds very similar to what we are doing!!!:D
Click to expand...

so the 12-bolt wont be able to handle the punishment?? or would it??

i've added the tracktion bars to my list... do you use the NOS in your headache build??
 
From what your talking about doing I doubt it would hold up. You want some serious power
 
sandracer799 said:
Are you going to be running paddles?

If not i dont see a need for a 14 bolt at all. Its sand, the tires are just spinning.

I am running a 10 bolts front and rear in my race truck for reduced weight. Both axles have auburn posi's front and rear.

As for tires I am running 33" mud terrains.

Now for the power deparment. Make as much as you can. Wheel speed is key in the sand. My truck has dyno 585 at the rear wheels. The truck is able to get enough wheel speed to stay on top of the sand and go.

If you any questions I will be happy to answer it.

And of course I can resist throwin up a pic

track4.png
Click to expand...


so as long as i am not going to use paddles then the 12-bolt should be fine? (trying to keep the budget low)

what about the engine?? any suggestions??

whats the specs of yours?
 
im not planning on running paddles...

and i am really worried about breaking the axles as that happened to my cousin twice with this 10 bolts.
 
Oh ok I wasn't sure. If you think your gonna break them then I would upgrade. It would be like throwing money away IMO
 
you said big block and budget.. Then you want horse power...

5-7k for a happy big block with entry level aluminum heads..still seems the wrong direction though

1k minimum for a auto and up from there

n2o... depends on the delivery and the smile factor

rear axle.. semi floater 14 bolt from a 80's burb with 4.10s, then newer 6 lug shafts

cage.. cage... cage s&w kit could get you started, or 2k-5k for a quality one from a shop



if you really want to build what your describing i would change this big block to the following


newer 6.0 iron block with factory aluminum block, est 500-1200 complete
6.2 heads, loaded from gm 850.00
carb intake and brain box to run coils 800.00
850 cfm double pumper..800.00 ISH??
conversion motor mount brackets and cranks spacer/misc crap est, hoses fuel delivery 500.00

gas go grab another low mile block and your back in business in no time if you do blow up the short block witht he giggle gas

big blocks put a smile on my face just as much as most people, but im in-love with the newer motors and availability and cost..if you build a stout roller stroked big block that will rev you are into some moneyyyy..
 
so if i stick with the 454 BB which i have.. would aluminum oval port heads with a new intake system be enough?? or should i go more??? i am not really planning on changing it..

remember i am still wanting to use it for DD... would working it in low RPM be able to produce the needed power? or is it better to go high RPM?

i'll start looking for a sf 14bolt around.. but i dont think its going to be an easy task..


what kind of upgrades do you recommend for the tranny?? and what type of torque converter would be a good choice?
 
aknight_sa said:
so the 12-bolt wont be able to handle the punishment?? or would it??

i've added the tracktion bars to my list... do you use the NOS in your headache build??
Click to expand...

The videos you have seen on Youtube was on motor only. I had NOS working on Labor Day, but I was having problems with my lifters in my motor, so I didn't get a chance to take a video. I didn't even get a chance to run paddles at all.

Axles are funny on strength. I've seen guys run 1/2 ton axles with out any problems and I've seen people who couldn’t keep a set in. I'm the type who couldn't keep axles in one piece.

Oval ports are fine for a 454. I'm going to run aftermarket ovals in my 496.
 
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