Anyone know if I'm going to struggle with steering since I'll be hydro assisting my Dana60 passenger drop axle? I didnt have an issue with the radius using the 2wd box on the suburban.
CK5
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Sasquatch
- Thread starter natemc
- Start date
92 K3500 CCLB
454 TBI / 4L80E
This is the rebuild of a rig that was purchased recently. This is to serve as a family tow rig that doesn't have a payment.
I didn't hydro-assist mine, so I'm not going to be help. But I'd sure like to see how this goes. Someday way down the road, I may be running into the same thing.
Got the passenger side upper shackle mount tacked in tonight. I dont have the wire feeder at the house again. Work needed it back so the ol' trailblazer was a bit much for my skills. Burned through in a couple spots. I think I'm going to borrow my father in laws mig. Since it used to be mine, I'll be able to fix the welds I screwed up I'm hoping.
Using the front hanger from the suburban. I had originally drilled the holes to use stock springs up to 56". I mocked up the upper shackle mount using 49" rough country springs and the farthest back hole. I'll see how they sit weighted and than decide what springs to use. Being that what the plan is for this rig, I cant find much info. Lots of SAS but not much for as heavy as this one will be.
Also, I think I figured out where my air compressors will be mounted. Sometime this week I should be able to get the holes drilled for all the mounts, wiring and hoses.
Using the front hanger from the suburban. I had originally drilled the holes to use stock springs up to 56". I mocked up the upper shackle mount using 49" rough country springs and the farthest back hole. I'll see how they sit weighted and than decide what springs to use. Being that what the plan is for this rig, I cant find much info. Lots of SAS but not much for as heavy as this one will be.
Also, I think I figured out where my air compressors will be mounted. Sometime this week I should be able to get the holes drilled for all the mounts, wiring and hoses.
Sneak peek. Sasquatch's are supposed to be big right?
Found out the Dana 60 has had a 32" pin to pin and the hanger was designed off a 32.5" Dana 44. With 4" rough country springs there is no give. Cutting and releasing the spring pad 1/2" over
Found out the Dana 60 has had a 32" pin to pin and the hanger was designed off a 32.5" Dana 44. With 4" rough country springs there is no give. Cutting and releasing the spring pad 1/2" over
Got home from church today. Cut some more of the excess metal off the frame.
Looking good! I wish they made fender flares that big for all body styles.
I'm really surprised the spring pad width wouldn't give. Keep up the good work.
I'm really surprised the spring pad width wouldn't give. Keep up the good work.
@GWeakland620 is fighting issues with spring width I think. I have seen people just move the center pin hole over a 1/4" on each side in the perches also. What about making offset axle center pin plates? I made my own copying their's. Instead of doing them like this with all of the holes in line. Take and offset the threaded hole you plan to use on the bottom either in or out to match the width of the center pin holes on the axle and that way the springs stay where they need to and the center pins line up and I would think you should be ok with the u-bolts for a 1/4" on each side. Just an idea.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/axle-offset-plates-2-1-2-wide-1-4-thick-pair.html
https://www.offroaddesign.com/axle-offset-plates-2-1-2-wide-1-4-thick-pair.html
Dude that's a great idea! I never thought about that.@GWeakland620 is fighting issues with spring width I think. I have seen people just move the center pin hole over a 1/4" on each side in the perches also. What about making offset axle center pin plates? I made my own copying their's. Instead of doing them like this with all of the holes in line. Take and offset the threaded hole you plan to use on the bottom either in or out to match the width of the center pin holes on the axle and that way the springs stay where they need to and the center pins line up and I would think you should be ok with the u-bolts for a 1/4" on each side. Just an idea.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/axle-offset-plates-2-1-2-wide-1-4-thick-pair.html
Yeah the light bulb just came on this morning with that one.
I just cut the axle perch off and moved it 1/2" to the drivers side. GM Dana 60 has the passenger perch cast into the center section
Ground down. Welded up the torch and cut off wheel mistakes and resanded. It's the part of the build no one likes.
Now I can mock up and weld in the shock towers. Connect the steering and brakes. Build the panhard bar upper mount. Than it should be driveable again.
Very nice!
Your gonna need some 40s on that thing to fill up that wheel well a little.
I dont know for sure what the ride height will be fully loaded. The bed will be pretty heavy and a lot of weight in front of the rear axle.
I marked the steering pitman arm center on the drag link. The steering box being on the inside of the frame means I need a shorter drag link. Why waste good material. I'll shorten this one and reweld the threaded bung into the dom
Got the shock towers cut off the suburban and welded onto the frame. I had to weld in the gusset step since I lost about 4" of the tower including the formed step that Ballistic has in their tower.
It just barely clears the brake lines along the frame. I'll have to do a little bit of reshaping. The hydroboost hose will need a small piece of hose wrap
The only real task I think that will be difficult is removing the exhaust manifold. I'll find out at some point I'm sure.
5 1/2" cut off total
