Saying Good-bye to the 90 and Hello to the 72 Build. NEW:Hidden Exhaust

[GRINCH]

The build has started….

For those of you that don’t know. In Dec I rolled my 90 and it was a total loss. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245408&highlight=rolled
I originally was going to do a body swap since the Drive train was still intact. I choose not to since I had this 72 project on the back burner and there were too many other things I wanted to change on the 90. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245753

So on to the 72….

Here are my goals of the rebuild.

14 Bolt rear. Eaton E-locker
Dana 60 front w/crossover steering E-locker also
4.10 Gears (Still working this out)
Caddy 500 with either TBI or MPFI
400 Tranny with the switch pitch mod (More on this later)
Either the Atlas 3 Speed or the STAK.
Max tire size will be 37". I have 36" IROK's to put on. And 37" Creepy crawlers.

I haven’t decided on lift yet! I do know I want to keep it as low as possible. It already has a 1” body lift.

I am open to all comments and suggestions.

Since this is going to be a long thread I would like to stay on topic of each part of the build thread. After it is over I plan on consolidating it to one post to make it easier for those searching.

Here’s what I am starting with.



I have already done some of the body work. It sat so long that I will be bringing it back down again. I do plan on cutting the wheel wells for clearance.

I have been working with Greg, (Greg72) on figuring out the gearing. Transfer case and Tranny. (Let’s hold off on this for a week or two before we post the charts you created)

Since Greg has already done an extensive write up on sheet metal replacement I won’t focus too much on that.

 

[MNorby]

Nice to see another somewhat local first gen guy. You can see my build thread in my sig for how I did my 71

 

[AJs72K5]

Cooool. Another build thread. Plans sound good. My only recommendation would be 4.56s with the tires you are considering.

 

[GRINCH]

Nice to see another somewhat local first gen guy. You can see my build thread in my sig for how I did my 71

Already been there!!


AJ.. Still trying to work out the gearing. Nothing is set in stone. I have a 14 that is in the 90 with a e-locker and it has 4.10's so that's why the 4.10's are mentioned.

 

[y5mgisi]

Awesome! Should end up pretty nice. What FI setup are you going to use on the 500?

 

[RGV72BLAZER]

I think the 500 caddy will make up for the gearing...stick with the 4.10s and spend the regearing $ elsewhere. Sounds like this is going to be sweet.

 

[GRINCH]

My lineup for the next 2-3 weeks.

Remove all the wiring & dash
Start cleaning up the frame and underbody and apply POR-15 or Rust bullet.
I will also start putting in the cage this week. I plan on making the cage completely removable and then re-install it once all the other work is done. Of course tying it into the frame once done.

Since I am planning on a 2” of lift I need to start figuring out how much fender to cut.

Next on the list is tubbing out the rear wheel wells. I need a 2” strip of someones wheel wells that they cut out. I have seen a few posts on this but can't find them. Hopefully someone has saved the left over pieces. (See post in the wanted section).

I am debating on pulling the pedal assembly since I'm going with an auto. It doesn't look like the clutch pedal can be removed. Any one know?

 

[70jimmy]

I bought a second set of rear inner fenders and they mated them, I added 6 inches on each side. Body shop did a lip and they overlap then welded, filled, smoothed, then I put in a 36 inch bench seat from PRP.

I agree on keeping the 4.10's since you have them and the motor and 400 trans will help but might not be a bad idea to look at t case gearing.

I am in this boat right now but don't have the horses you will and have a 350 trans.

 

[chalet2506]

If you get the clutch pedal assembly out, let me know what you would want for it. I'm leaning towards doing a manual swap in my '72 when the leaking th350 goes.

Also, first gen fenders are purdy - I'd go with more lift as apposed to trimming to fit the 36's. Especially since it looks like your body isn't in that bad of shape. Just my .02.

 

[GRINCH]

If you get the clutch pedal assembly out, let me know what you would want for it. I'm leaning towards doing a manual swap in my '72 when the leaking th350 goes.

Also, first gen fenders are purdy - I'd go with more lift as apposed to trimming to fit the 36's. Especially since it looks like your body isn't in that bad of shape. Just my .02.

Sending you a PM on the pedal assembly

I agree about the fenders being "PURDY" I really don't want to cut. But I didn't like the top heavy wobbly feeling I had in my 90. So a huge lift is out of the question.

I don't plan on doing a hack job!!!! I have a few ideas in mind using patch panels and cut outs.

Stay tuned for some examples.

 

[bp71k5]

subscribed.

Is that a single wall hard top? If so, any chance you can get me some pictures of what the inside looks like? I'm thinking of trying to modify my double wall to allow bolting it down from the top.

 

[Big Blzn]

Subscribed. Don't cut!!!

 

[GRINCH]

Subscribed. Don't cut!!!

That's what this post is all about!! Give me a way to fit 36" or 37" with out massive lift.

I feel most of the reason my 90 rolled was because of the lift..

I don't really want to cut either.. Look at the front of my 90 and you can see how I reshaped the fenders to keep them stock looking. I'm planning on doing the same with the 72.

 

[bigblock72]

Fitting 36-37 inch tires is possible with careful axle placement. No matter what you do you'll have to cut the fang off of the front fender, I like to cut it about an inch below the body line. No other cutting is needed, I've ran mine like this for 4 years and only scratched the paint with no cut tires.

I recommend a 3-4 inch front spring and doing a shackle reversal to lift the rear. You'll need to move the front axle forward about 2 inches to keep the tire out of the fender when the springs are compressed. This can be done with custom springs, a zero rate etc. Use a bumpstop set at around 3-4 inches tops.The rear axle will need to be moved back 1-2 inches depending on how the body sits on the frame, a zero rate works the best especially with a shackle reversal. A bump stop will help make the springs last and keep the tires out of the bedsides in extreme situations.

All of these suggestions are using a 8-9 inch wide wheels. If you have to run 10 inch wheels then you'll drop your tires back to 35s or cut the front fenders.

The caddy sounds cool. I think a TBI with a big throttle body and injectors would be a natural swap.


and BTW don't cut. The more sheet metal the better.

 

[MNorby]

My lineup for the next 2-3 weeks.

Remove all the wiring & dash
Start cleaning up the frame and underbody and apply POR-15 or Rust bullet.
I will also start putting in the cage this week. I plan on making the cage completely removable and then re-install it once all the other work is done. Of course tying it into the frame once done.

Since I am planning on a 2” of lift I need to start figuring out how much fender to cut.

Next on the list is tubbing out the rear wheel wells. I need a 2” strip of someones wheel wells that they cut out. I have seen a few posts on this but can't find them. Hopefully someone has saved the left over pieces. (See post in the wanted section).

I am debating on pulling the pedal assembly since I'm going with an auto. It doesn't look like the clutch pedal can be removed. Any one know?

I left my clutch pedal in mine and just let the spring hold it against the firewallm. Didn't see a way to remove it without replacing whole assembly or cutting off.

 

[vtblazer]

Give me a way to fit 36" or 37" with out massive lift.

Since your willing and able to do some sheet metal work, here's another way to reshape your fenders.

I did these as a 'test' and they'd be great for a driver running 36's/37's but weren't quite enough for the 39.5's I was running at the time.

First two pics show the worked fender lying on top of a stock fender.

Something I'm seriously considering doing for my current build w/37's.

 

[jimbug]

I agree with vt blazer.... still keeps the stockish look to it but adds the tire clearance you need! you could do the same with the rear

 

[GRINCH]

Had to stop for a while to plump the shop the new Air compressor.
.

Compresor is outside in a attached shed. It's nice to still be able to talk with the compressor running. It's a PUMA twin cast iron cylinder.
Used 3/4" type K copper pipe and formed a loop around the shop and drains on every drop. Bought 1 50' 3/8" retractable hose reel to finish off the project

Started and finished the tubbing project. Not to worried about making them "car finish" since I'm going to line the whole inside of the cab.

 

[GRINCH]

Now on to the doors. Picked up some doors at the local junk yard. One wasn't too bad while the other had some issues on the inside bottom corners. Of course someone cut speaker holes in them.. Gone to patch them up too. Will be converting them over to blazer style also.

 

[Yukon Jack]

The compressor outside will definitely be nice! Tubs came out looking good btw!