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School me on HMMWV rims

Fred_M1010

Fred_M1010

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A friend is planning on getting HMMWV rims for his K5.
He's got a drw front dana 60 and plans to get spacers for the rear axle,
so I don't think the backspacing will be a problem.

What are the difference between the different rims? 8/12/24 bolt
I've seen different info on width as well...?

He found this company on Ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/FELTZ-TIRE
Anyone dealt with them?

How are the stock HMMWV tires for offroad use?
He's planning on getting bigger tires later, but might settle for these for the time being.

Any other advice on the subject?
 
8bolts are fine but supposedly have a lower psi rating
12bolts are the norm, and i would go with them
24 bolts are a waste

the stock 37s work ok. good road manners, but dont expect them to excell in anything. fairly weak sidewalls.

oh and

www.trailworthyfab.com
 
I don't find the 30psi limit of the 8 bolt wheels to be a problem - I rarely want any more than 28 anyway. I've never had a problem with leaks. If you need high load tires it could be an issue. I have broken 3 wheel bolts now, which does worry me. It seems like with the same air pressure the 12 bolt would be more durable. But I've only been using used hardware, of which I can not know the history.

The 36" tires receive lots of hate while the 37's are generally considered mediocre. Almost any tire can give great performance on a double beadlock, though. Check out trailworthyfab.com for total shipped price before buying from that eBay store. Remember that you need some kind of beadlock or runflat if you want to mount the tires yourself. I have PVCs and find them a serious pain to install. I don't think I've ever successfully removed one from a tire. I think there are some other options. Cut down mags seem kind of butch, but at least you can take them apart.

Be aware that these are about the heaviest wheels you can get. Serious weight added at each corner.
 
Blue85 said:
I don't find the 30psi limit of the 8 bolt wheels to be a problem - I rarely want any more than 28 anyway. I've never had a problem with leaks. If you need high load tires it could be an issue. I have broken 3 wheel bolts now, which does worry me. It seems like with the same air pressure the 12 bolt would be more durable. But I've only been using used hardware, of which I can not know the history.

The 36" tires receive lots of hate while the 37's are generally considered mediocre. Almost any tire can give great performance on a double beadlock, though. Check out trailworthyfab.com for total shipped price before buying from that eBay store. Remember that you need some kind of beadlock or runflat if you want to mount the tires yourself. I have PVCs and find them a serious pain to install. I don't think I've ever successfully removed one from a tire. I think there are some other options. Cut down mags seem kind of butch, but at least you can take them apart.

Be aware that these are about the heaviest wheels you can get. Serious weight added at each corner.
Click to expand...


You need to jigsaw cut your inserts and it is no big deal at all to install/ remove them
 
Some other tips:

-Never remove the wheel bolts unless all air pressure is gone! These wheels can kill you.
-You probably want new O-rings.
 
Sorry to bring this thread back, but I have a question about these. Is it a bad idea to wheel without cutting the runflat centers down? Seems like you could still air down a good amount and do some rock wheeling. What do you guys think?

How much of a pain in the ass is it to split them and cut them down?
 
78SWB said:
Sorry to bring this thread back, but I have a question about these. Is it a bad idea to wheel without cutting the runflat centers down? Seems like you could still air down a good amount and do some rock wheeling. What do you guys think?

How much of a pain in the ass is it to split them and cut them down?
Click to expand...

You don't really want to run the Mag run flats UN-cut.
If you air down, you'll just be riding the run flat, destroying the tire.

The idea behind the run flat, is to act as a dummy tire, for escape purposes.
You don't want yer tire sammiched between a rock, and a run flat....
Then, add torque to the mix.... Bye bye tire.

Cut it down, or run the PVC run flats, like I did.
There's a trick to installing them IN ONE PIECE, that makes it a breeze....
You just have to be 1% smarter than what yer workin on. :waytogo:
 
Fred_M1010 said:
A friend is planning on getting HMMWV rims for his K5.
He's got a drw front dana 60 and plans to get spacers for the rear axle,
so I don't think the backspacing will be a problem.

What are the difference between the different rims? 8/12/24 bolt
I've seen different info on width as well...?

He found this company on Ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/FELTZ-TIRE
Anyone dealt with them?

How are the stock HMMWV tires for offroad use?
He's planning on getting bigger tires later, but might settle for these for the time being.

Any other advice on the subject?
Click to expand...
I had 3 matching 24 bolt wheels of the even-spaced design and wanted to find another one to complete the set. I bought one from this business in Wisconsin as you listed the link. No problems with them at all and shipping from Wisconsin to Kansas ran me $30.

Keep in mind that if you choose the 24 bolts, be specific on which spacing pattern you want. There are the even-spaced and pair-spaced. The pair-spaced ones are the strongest of the H1 wheels. They can take a load per tire over 4000 lbs. each.

I prefer the 24's over the 8's and 12's any day solely to the fact that they have more nuts to hold the two rim pieces together for better air retention and the weight rating, too.
 
Could be. Of all the H1's I have here in the shop, none of them have much lead weights on them at all. Very minimal weights. We're talking 3, 4, 5 or 6 ounces each.
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
You don't really want to run the Mag run flats UN-cut.
If you air down, you'll just be riding the run flat, destroying the tire.

The idea behind the run flat, is to act as a dummy tire, for escape purposes.
You don't want yer tire sammiched between a rock, and a run flat....
Then, add torque to the mix.... Bye bye tire.

Cut it down, or run the PVC run flats, like I did.
There's a trick to installing them IN ONE PIECE, that makes it a breeze....
You just have to be 1% smarter than what yer workin on. :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking about that...

I just didn't want to spend $200 plus shipping on PVC's, but that sounds like the best route from the reading i've done.

Out of my 3 24 bolt wheels and 2 12 bolt wheels (yes it's ghetto, I know) only 1 of the 24 bolts leak. Im sure its an error by who ever installed the tires or maybe a bad O-ring.

I would like to trade my 3 24 bolt wheels for 3 12 bolt wheels.
 
78SWB said:
I would like to trade my 3 24 bolt wheels for 3 12 bolt wheels.
Click to expand...
I have 3 sets of 12 bolts laying in the shop with no tires or runflats. They do need nuts and o-rings though. I'd trade ya.
 
78SWB said:
I'd be interested if you got o-rings and nuts for them. Where are you located?
Click to expand...
Central Kansas 67439 zip.

I can't justify spending $41 from Trailworthy for one kit to do one wheel in order to do a trade.

Flange nuts, however, can be bought from McMaster-Carr for around $8 for a pack of 25 nuts. O-rings can be bought just about anywhere for around $3 average, each.

Regardless of trades or not, I would never reuse an used o-ring. Cheaper insurance to get a new one. Nuts can be had cheaply but not at Trailworthy's expense.
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
There's a trick to installing them IN ONE PIECE, that makes it a breeze....
You just have to be 1% smarter than what yer workin on. :waytogo:
Click to expand...
Installation isn't the problem - it's removing them that's a pain.
 
Are the nuts different on a 24 bolt wheel compared to a 12 bolt wheel?

Martin
 
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