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School me on Intake Manifolds

 
 
Moody said:
You could run this intake...it's a Weiand action plus dual plane made for vortec heads. It cost me about 145.00 through Summit with free shipping which is about 40 less than the performer. Nothing against edelbrock I just wanted to use something different and wasn't comfortable using one of the crosswind knock-offs on ebay. It's set up for a squarebore carb and good from off-idle to 6000. If I end up using a Q-jet I'll use an adaptor.
Click to expand...


I am running a weiand power plus+ and love it.. to my door for $120 where an edelbrock was $245.......

oh yeah to add .... I had an adapter on my intake to use my holley... I bolted that adapter right up to my new weiand intake and put my truck avenger on top of it....


edited again...
SB Chevy Power+Plus Vortec Cyclone Intake Manifold - Satin Finish - $105.04 plus shipping

PP52007_L.jpg



http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=8009&CtgID=7753
 
may I ask, why did you need an adapter? if your intake is the same as the one picture its setup for both square and spreadbore...
 
RootBreaker said:
I am running a weiand power plus+ and love it.. to my door for $120 where an edelbrock was $245.......

oh yeah to add .... I had an adapter on my intake to use my holley... I bolted that adapter right up to my new weiand intake and put my truck avenger on top of it....


edited again...
SB Chevy Power+Plus Vortec Cyclone Intake Manifold - Satin Finish - $105.04 plus shipping

PP52007_L.jpg



http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=8009&CtgID=7753
Click to expand...

I again recomend the Weiand Action+ manifold. Also to seal properly with a square bore, there is a thin steel plate that they recomend using. But for a spreadbore, you shouldn't have any problems.
 
sled_dog said:
may I ask, why did you need an adapter? if your intake is the same as the one picture its setup for both square and spreadbore...
Click to expand...

well I dont have studs to put the carb on.... so I just bolted the adapter down.... guess I dont really need it.....
 
Chevy305 said:
I again recomend the Weiand Action+ manifold. Also to seal properly with a square bore, there is a thin steel plate that they recomend using. But for a spreadbore, you shouldn't have any problems.
Click to expand...

hmmm I got that plate.. what is it for? I didnt use it as I wasnt sure what it was for.... maybe ill go buy some studs this weekend and try that plate too... maybe that will clean some stuff up... i still got that hesitation.. but think that is the truck avenger hesitation.... gonna call holley on that too
 
RootBreaker said:
hmmm I got that plate.. what is it for? I didnt use it as I wasnt sure what it was for.... maybe ill go buy some studs this weekend and try that plate too... maybe that will clean some stuff up... i still got that hesitation.. but think that is the truck avenger hesitation.... gonna call holley on that too
Click to expand...
I just use one of the thicker base gaskets. There is some concern with good sealing when you bolt a squarebore (holley) to a spreadbore intake. I think the steel plate is suppose to help it seal better. I like the thicker gaskets because I think they conform better. Plus they have little round blocks in the holes to prevent over tightening the gasket.

If you are using that adapter get rid of it. That may be part of your trouble with the hesitation. Spacers don't really add power, they more change your torque and RPM curves.

Have you swapped in .035 accelerator pump squirters and a blue accelerator pump cam? These are common changes for the TA on a 350.

Worst case you could see if fattening up the idle circuit a litte would help. Maybe a 1/8 turn out on the mixture screws.

Despite Holley's asertions, these are not bolt on and go carbs.:rolleyes: I don't think they are doing themselves any favors by claiming they are.
 
Quackaddict said:
hope this is on topic. The adapter for the manifold. The Q-jet and truck avenger are spread bore.
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The holly truck avenger is square bore.
 
littlejimmythatcould said:
Maybe an adapter plate.... plus it would act as a carb spacer, maybe pick a few extra pounds of torque. Depends on your clearance between your hood and you air cleaner though. Just an idea.
P.S. I'm running a regular performer intake.
Click to expand...
If you really wanted to get tricky, you could use an adapter and run the qjet backwards. For just a little bit better trail performance. Course then linkage gets tricky. I thought about doing this when I still had a qjet because I have a th400 and the kick down linkage is not connected to the carb.
 
mrk5 said:
Have you swapped in .035 accelerator pump squirters and a blue accelerator pump cam? These are common changes for the TA on a 350.
Click to expand...

no I didnt do that part yet... how hard is it to change the squirters? i have a few dollars coming in so I can afford it....


Despite Holley's asertions, these are not bolt on and go carbs.:rolleyes: I don't think they are doing themselves any favors by claiming they are.
Click to expand...

Yeah when I originally called them I told them some of the problems I was having.. then I told the guy I failed inspection so I have to go back for something totally not related to them... the guy was like... yeah you failed cuz that is an off road only carb... will never pass emmissions....
I laughed and told him to not worry about that part.. I already passed the emmissions part I just failed for 1 front leaf loose and pitman arm nut loose.....:haha:

he was shocked that I passed emmissions....

hmm guess I will go and price the parts....


you say blue accelerator pump cam..... is that the part where right now I have a red one? I was told you adjust the nut on top of it.......





DSCF0034.JPG
 
RootBreaker said:
hmmm I got that plate.. what is it for? I didnt use it as I wasnt sure what it was for.... maybe ill go buy some studs this weekend and try that plate too... maybe that will clean some stuff up... i still got that hesitation.. but think that is the truck avenger hesitation.... gonna call holley on that too
Click to expand...

This is the plate they recomend to seel a square bore onto a spread bore manifold:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WND%2D9006&N=4294925239+115&autoview=sku

wnd-9006.jpg


As others have said, I don't think that this will help your hesitation unless it is because you have a massive vaccum leak at the carb base.

I am going to install this adapter plate with the WND-8004 manifold:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WND%2D8004&N=115&autoview=sku
 
RootBreaker said:
no I didnt do that part yet... how hard is it to change the squirters? i have a few dollars coming in so I can afford it....




Yeah when I originally called them I told them some of the problems I was having.. then I told the guy I failed inspection so I have to go back for something totally not related to them... the guy was like... yeah you failed cuz that is an off road only carb... will never pass emmissions....
I laughed and told him to not worry about that part.. I already passed the emmissions part I just failed for 1 front leaf loose and pitman arm nut loose.....:haha:

he was shocked that I passed emmissions....

hmm guess I will go and price the parts....


you say blue accelerator pump cam..... is that the part where right now I have a red one? I was told you adjust the nut on top of it.......
Click to expand...
No at this point don't mess with the nut/bolt with the red spring that I think you must be talking about. You will once you change the accelerator pump cam.

You see the green arrow in the pic below. It is pointing to the screw that holds the cam in. You will take that screw out and the pump cam will slide off towards the front of the vehicle. You will put a blue cam on and use the screw in the #2 hole of the cam and linkage. They are labeled, just look close. IIRC the factory cam is in the #1 holes.
Accel-Cam.jpg


Now you can adjust the nut and bolt with the red spring you were talking about. You need to do this to take advantage of the full accel pump shot now that you have a more aggressive cam. There is a spec for this setting you'll have to look up. I don't remember what it is but it needs to be correct to prevent damage to the accel pump diaphram at wide open throttle.

The squirter is located below the choke flap at the front where the arrow is pointing. It is just a big phillips screw holding it in. The tricky part is getting it in without loosing the little washers. You can do it, just got have dexterity. The safe thing would be to do it off the vehicle.
Nozzle.jpg


This is what the cams look like:
large20-12.jpg

Part number you need is 20-12

This is what the squirters look like. Technically called accelerator pump discharge nozzles.
large121-131.jpg


If you've got someone to watch, you can tune the discharge nozzles by watching for black smoke when you stomp on it from a stop. Once you have black smoke, step back one size. I can't do this very well because my exhaust is cut off at the rear axle.
 
mrk5 said:
I can't do this very well because my exhaust is cut off at the rear axle.
Click to expand...

thanks for the awesome post.. i will be doing this next weekend...

also my exhaust is under the bed.... 12" past cab and under the bed is LEGAL in NJ :bow:
 
You're welcome. Just passing on what I've learned.

I keep meaning to do a big TA post here in the Garage and go over everything that I've done and researched. Most of what I've done and know comes from searching over at thirdgen.org.

Seems like once a month a question comes up about them. Then I would save myself some typing because I could just link my thread.:crazy:
 
In response to the original post...
I thought that I read an article in hot rod magazine a few years ago where they dynotested a few different intake manifolds and posted either the numbers or the graphs (I can't remember which). The surprising thing was that their dyno showed the performer RPM had better numbers throughout the entire RPM range than the performer manifold. I always thought that the performer would have better numbers down low and that the performer RPM would have better numbers up high.

Can anybody confirm or deny this? I am having a hard time understanding why the performer wouldn't do better than the performer RPM at low RPM's.
 
only thought for me is that the RPM creats a little more velocity down low with its more sweeping intake runners. Performer to me, the biggest gain with that is the reduced weight. I don't think there is much if any power gain over a stock QJet manifold. I didn't feel one in the old seat of the pants dyno anyway when I switched.
 
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