Searching for torque

[ccarley]

Shady: that does sound odd. I like my vehicles to fire pretty quickly. Does it take that long all the time, or just when cold, or just when hot?

As sweetK30 points out, I always turn the key on, sit for a moment, and then crank. Just to get fuel pressure up first.

I'll see how my 'Burb fires up today; when it was cold before, it would crank a while before firing. I never liked it, but just figured it was the computer figuring things out. When warm, it was never offensive... but it fires way faster now. Don't really know why for sure... unless the "taller" intake is letting the mixture get more momentum before going into the cylinder, forcing the air & fuel in there a little harder.

ryoken: Yeah I'm concerned about the throttle cable for sure. My pedal stands a bit higher now which is uncomfortable anyway, so I need to do something about it. I've had broken throttle cables in my old VW bug; and they never happen at a good time. The TV seems to have better geometry. It ended up being "shorter"; the housing didn't come out as far as it was, but that could also be because of the previous adjustment.

I'll keep you guys updated. Might take a trip out to the ocean this morning, with plenty of hill climbs They were almost full throttle 3rd gear hill climbs before... unloaded!

EDIT: Oh yeah I almost forgot. I placed another order with Jegs last night (while drinking...) and ordered up the Jeg's salad bowl, and pod spacer kit. Anyone looking to order the pod spacer needs to shop around! I saw some spacer only kits that were way too much $$$, and other full kits with new bolts for less $$$, and then some just spacers for super cheap.

Another note on the TB spacer. I had ordered the fuel line extensions, but didn't use them. I don't really see how they will work well since the lines enter the throttle body at angles. Adding length exaggerated the angles while adding a short length. I ended up trying to bend the fuel lines just slightly enough to make them reach; it was worth the sweat. And by worth the sweat, I mean it was like 90F outside while I was doing this LOL!

Clay

 

[Deuling]

do you directly try and fire when first turn key ?

or do you turn key on and wait 3-5 sec for fuel system to prime up ?

this does make a big diffrence on some systems.

I Agree

In the BII you can hear the fuel pumps (yes plural) prime when key is turned forward but not all the way to ignition. JUst for a second or two.

 

[shady]

do you directly try and fire when first turn key ? or do you turn key on and wait 3-5 sec for fuel system to prime up ?
this does make a big diffrence on some systems.

It doesent matter if I wait . does it no matter what. I tried listening for the pump priming up when I was messing with it cause I was gonna remove the lines doing the spacer. I never have heard a pump

Shady: that does sound odd. I like my vehicles to fire pretty quickly. Does it take that long all the time, or just when cold, or just when hot?
As sweetK30 points out, I always turn the key on, sit for a moment, and then crank. Just to get fuel pressure up first.
I'll keep you guys updated. Might take a trip out to the ocean this morning, with plenty of hill climbs They were almost full throttle 3rd gear hill climbs before... unloaded!
Another note on the TB spacer. I had ordered the fuel line extensions, but didn't use them. I don't really see how they will work well since the lines enter the throttle body at angles.
Clay

It doesnt matter hot or cold, its every time I start it. thats why I did all the ignition too. That trip to the hills will probably supprise you On the fuel line extensions, I thought they'd mess it up with them angles too. All I did was get directly above it put one hand between the lines and one on the front of the TBI. Them pulled straight up while holding it level. Took 5 seconds and looks factory.

 

[eagle mark]

Carry your old stock GM module for when the Accel goes out. There is no better option for that piece than a stock GM unit. Also make sure you use the heat transfer type grease under the metal part. And that modules only grond is the 2 screws holding it down. Now adding a MSD coil, cap rotor wires and a MSD6, now theres an upgrade

Spacers are OK and have shown small increases but the one from CFM tech has part of the center missing allowing either side to breath from both bores. Proven better.

Headers and duel exhaust is a big expense but well worth it. Do not get cheap headers!!!! Besides they look like **** and leak like **** and... well I will leave that alone for now. Look in the exhaust section for Headman Elite headers with ceramic coating. They never loosen, leak, rust etc... just nice stuff! Plus under hood temps do go down from the ceramic holding in the heat and shooting it out exhaust.

By the time you by a chip look at Dave W thread on why owners don't prgram there own chips. You can just about buy what you need to tune forever for the same cost. Adjustable regulater helps when tuning and making other mods. Add a wide Band O2 sensor with controller and gauge and tune that sucker to about 12.5 to 1 AFR. Then look for Daves Performance spark curve table and add spark everywhere while watching the Knock Sensor readings and back it off a tad.

All those will help and if your not always doing WOT you will also have MPG gains. With the chip tuning you can also do a patch to the stock ECM and add highway lean cruise for a guarenteed 10% MPG increase. Some times more!

I went to Amsoil Synthetic Motor oil, Tranny fluid, rear axle gear oil and picked up 10% MPG averaged that year. I had also added a K&N air filter at the same time and always keep my tire presure about 5PSI over high side or with LT tires run the high presure side. I also did a four wheel alignment (rear non adjustable but I wanted to know if the Suburban rear was true and going stright with front and it was).

HTH!

 

[4X4HIGH]

It doesent matter if I wait . does it no matter what. I tried listening for the pump priming up when I was messing with it cause I was gonna remove the lines doing the spacer. I never have heard a pump



It doesnt matter hot or cold, its every time I start it. thats why I did all the ignition too. That trip to the hills will probably supprise you On the fuel line extensions, I thought they'd mess it up with them angles too. All I did was get directly above it put one hand between the lines and one on the front of the TBI. Them pulled straight up while holding it level. Took 5 seconds and looks factory.

That is a classic sign that the fuel pump relay is bad. The oil pressure switch will allow the fuel pump to run once it sees 5 psi of oil pressure but because you're cranking the engine you can't hear the pump start working. Usually it will take about 5 seconds or so for the engine to start if the fuel pump relay is bad versus just a second or so with a good relay. The GM fuel pump relays are known for going bad so I would suggest you replace yours and see how that works.

 

[eagle mark]

There's usually a red wire with a plastic end on it coming from the fuel pump relay. Just run power to it to check relay. If you run power to it the relay will energize and the fuel pump will run.

 

[shady]

Sweet!, thats exactly what it seems like, I'm gonna have to do that

 

[eagle mark]

There's usually a red wire with a plastic end on it coming from the fuel pump relay. Just run power to it to check relay. If you run power to it the relay will energize and the fuel pump will run.

I should have said if the realy is good!!! It will energize and run. This is such a simple way to diagnose a fuel system...

 

[shady]

where by chance is the relay

 

[eagle mark]

Pretty sure from my ailing old memory.... what were we talking about.....

Just kidding! Look on the firewall. It's a a oval looking thing with wires running into it. I think on your truck there are two right next to each other. Only one has the red wire hanging out like it doesn't belong there and is missing the other end. HTH!

 

[shady]

I thought so, I have been trying to figure out what that relay was It was right in the worst part of the heat during the engine compartment fire. But everything worked as far as I could tell so I didnt really try that hard to figure out what it was. Its melted a bit so I'm guessing its pretty bad inside. Thanks

 

[ryoken]

that and an ignition module are the 2 components i always kept a spare for in the console...

 

[shady]

I havent thrown the old ignition module away so I'll have to put it in my emergency box

 

[ccarley]

Sadly, my OE module did actually die. Pretty sure, especially since there was a burn mark on the bottom of it... I do have 2 extras with me though that "work", although not as well as the Accel unit.

The weekend hill climbing out to the ocean was eye opening! 1/2 throttle on most of the hills, where I would normally have it to the floor. Just to attempt to maintain speed. Less throttle is used all around now, which is nice, and the engine does not sound like it's working as hard at all (I'm not a full throttle all the time kind of guy).

No clue on mileage yet. I'm only 1/4 tank down since Friday. I'll let it go the rest of the week & see what it looks like this Friday.

Clay

 

[eagle mark]

Yes they seem to work better and I know how they work better...

But they do not last and what they do to make it feel better also takes out coils so keep one with you as well.

Would you do me a favor? When it fails let me know how many miles it lasted and if it was just the Module or Module and coil. I have one report of it taking out the primary winding coil in the distributor as well but I can't figure out why it could tax that part so it may have been just a non related failure...

 

[ccarley]

Man, taking out the coil in the dizzy too? Mine just went out a few months ago and that's a sucky problem to have!

I'll keep my eyes on this. I'm pretty sure the coil in the dizzy took out my OE GM module it was visibly burned on the bottom when I took it out. The module I had in there started throwing code 42 after the coil was replaced, but it ran with that module before the coil was replaced too making me think the darn coil damaged it, and it finally gave up. It was random. Check engine light a week after the coil was replaced, ran bad, but then fire it up again and it ran fine. Came on again and ran bad a month later, shut down, fired up a few hours later and ran fine... and the Check Engine light would go off too... Also had a weird hesitation. Those symptoms seemed to have gone away with the new Accel module.

I guess I'll get (another) new module; I don't like the idea of those parts dying. If it dies beforehand, I'll be sure to post how long it lasted; I do have records of when I replaced all of these parts.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Are you adding the dielectric grease to the bottom of the modules before you install them? Also DO NOT touch the bottom of the module with your fingers as the oil from your body can prematurely make them go bad.

 

[ccarley]

Oh yeah. Dielectric grease on the bottom, and cleaned the base of the dizzy with a blue shop rag too.

Whatever I can do to keep these bits alive... Don't want to end up changing these parts on the side of the road when it's 100 degrees out on a 4 hour trip to go camping or something, you know?

Clay

 

[ccarley]

After the first fill up, 18 gallons for a week and a weekend full of driving, doing quick math in my head I haven't seen any improvement in MPG. But, there was an improvement in power, so more power and same MPG= happy driver.

I tried the salad bowl for a day without modification to the air filter base, and closing the lid. Whatever gains in HP were made, I lost low-end by at least having the lid closed. It ran smoother, but on a ramp between hwy 101N and hwy 12E that normally just required 3rd gear, it actually downshifted to 2nd gear. Don't get me wrong, plenty of power was on tap! But I took the salad bowl off until I find another air filter assembly to cut up. Keeping the stock one for smog, just in case.

Clay

 

[Bent77]

So i upped the fuel pressure from 11 to 13, noticed some small power gain on the low end. Need to drive it more to get a full idea but thought i would chime in.