Searching for torque

[eagle mark]

Do a couple dyno runs with hood closed, one air filter lid like it's supposed to be and one upside down. I'm not a gambler but will bet on this one because it's already proven a myth. It was a myth before the Internet. Sounds like at least 30 HP though.

It may make a differnce to the good side if your motor is built to put out HP around 5000-6000 RPM.

I still like the stock filter, get another one from JY with tube and take the cold air tube off, flip it over, braze up the hot air tube now on top and add it to stock filter for dual cold air intake, add a Big Block lid which is twice as deep with BB deep filter. Still have the origanal hot air tube for cold weather, it's shuts real fast in summer. This would be a true Hot Rod technique!

Also K&N filters will increase HP, so little you will never notice, this is by letting more air in, less filtered air. Look around for the term Dusted Motor.

The Cold Air Intakes that are not completely sealed do let some hot air in, but it can only be measured with a IAT sensor at stand still. As soon as you are moving the airflow underhood is quickly vented.

 

[ccarley]

Eagle Mark: I've seen that dual cold air idea somewhere... it looked pretty cool, and the guy who did it reported that it was indeed hard to tell if it helped, until he was going up hills. Then, his engine had an easier time, with less downshifting he said.

Definitely something to be had with cold air going in the engine! With my smog guy not caring about the TBI spacer or salad bowl, I doubt he would notice if I had a BB filter lid...

As for the grease on the HEI module, I always follow the directions included in the package. In both the case of the Accel and Jeg's module; cleaned all surfaces, and used the included grease (clear dielectric grease).

Now to the big question. Did the HEI module really fail? My newly installed Jeg's unit, after maybe 20 or 30 miles, is throwing a light sometimes as of yesterday. All I did was replace the cap & rotor (no more rubbing etc), drove to the store, and I got the check engine light again. So here's my big question now: does the HEI module in the distributor get it's ground through one of the mounting bolts? Mine happen to be a tad oxidized... perhaps it's not the module going bad throwing the code at this point... But I think ignition issues will be another thread.

As far as torque, I'm pretty happy so far. I am leaning towards skipping the rockers and going with the Edelbrock intake as has been suggested, after hopefully finding the cold air snorkel at a junkyard soon!

 

[80' 427]

Mine ran the best with 8 deg of intial timing, bumped fuel pressure, cat delete, ported throttle body, 2 pod gaskets and a heated o2 sensor and a 80s 305 aircleaner. I wouldn't waste money on the 1.6s. The heads aren't very high flowing and more lift really won't help.

 

[eagle mark]

Eagle Mark:

As for the grease on the HEI module, I always follow the directions included in the package. In both the case of the Accel and Jeg's module; cleaned all surfaces, and used the included grease (clear dielectric grease).

Now to the big question. Did the HEI module really fail? My newly installed Jeg's unit, after maybe 20 or 30 miles, is throwing a light sometimes as of yesterday. All I did was replace the cap & rotor (no more rubbing etc), drove to the store, and I got the check engine light again. So here's my big question now: does the HEI module in the distributor get it's ground through one of the mounting bolts? Mine happen to be a tad oxidized... perhaps it's not the module going bad throwing the code at this point... But I think ignition issues will be another thread.

The HEI module is referred to as EST Electronic Spark Timing or ICM Ignition Control Module.

What code is being set? You will get a Code 42 set when you dissconnect bypass wire to set timing and have to clear codes.

Yes the 2 mounting screws are the grounds.

That is not dielectric grease, it is a heat dissipating compound similar to stuff used in dissipating heat in a PC processor.

Mine ran the best with 8 deg of intial timing, bumped fuel pressure, cat delete, ported throttle body, 2 pod gaskets and a heated o2 sensor and a 80s 305 aircleaner. I wouldn't waste money on the 1.6s. The heads aren't very high flowing and more lift really won't help.

If you change Initial or Base timing it has to be indicated in the bin file (chip) or you will be over max timing allowed in certain conditions and firing wrong plug. For instance SBC Base timing 0, deceleration 41 degrees in chip, you added 8, that's totla 49 degrees and firing wrong cylinder under decel...

Initial spark advance. This value should be what
the physical distributor timing is set to. This
value gets subtracted from the Total Spark Advance.
(but is physically added back in by the position
of the distributor relative to piston tdc).
This is also called 'static' timing.

It's purpose is due to the physical limitations of the distributor. You can only advance the timing so far until you are sparking on the wrong cylinder. With eight spark firings per distributor revolution, there are only 45 degrees between each set of plug wire terminals on the cap. GM uses the value of 42 degrees as the maximum advance. This
always a safety margin to direct the spark to the proper terminal.

Fuel pressure increase also needs to be calculated into bin file BPW Paremeter.

 

[80' 427]

I am not telling you it is right but it has over 250,000 miles on it and 150,000 were with 8 deg for inital. It never ran goofy on decel. In fact it regularly gets 18-20 mpg. Maybe I am lucky. I adjusted fuel pressure and used a wide band to assure 12.5 at wot.

 

[ccarley]

Eagle Mark: Indeed I was getting a code 42. I replaced both the module that lives in the distributor as well as the pickup coil this weekend, and the code didn't return.

I recall when I timed it last, disconnecting the wire did set the check engine light, but once connected, when I checked for codes, it wasn't stored. I believe my manual states that code 42 is when it looses communication with the timing computer, right? Could be other issues, and although there is some corrosion here or there, all the connectors look good inside.

Interesting to know about the grease; I do always use what the module comes with, but being clear I always thought it was dielectric grease. I'll make sure to keep some thermal paste with me in the future

 

[eagle mark]

Code 42 should be there after disconnecting timing bypass wire until you disconnect battery to clear codes.

If you get it after that it is probably a faulty EST module.