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Seized nut on a pulley. How would you remove?

DK5

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My brother is fixing his car up a bit. Thought I'd be big bro and help him out a bit :waytogo:

IMG_0540.jpg


Anyway the bottom pulley on his motor is wobbling as though bent and the nut seized on pretty bad. Now, the nut is not damaged beyond removal, yet.

How would you remove it? I was thinking of trying heat and then using an impact gun. Only thing is I'm not sure that the pulley will stay put (might spin).
 
Get the appropriate socket on a breaker bar and lay the breaker bar against the frame and crank the engine and the bolt will come right off (assuming the bolt isn't rounded and allow the socket to slip off).
 
Auto or manual?

Make sure its not left hand thread, I imagine its not, being longitudinal mount but some, particularly honda, use left hand thread on the crank pulley
 
Auto or manual?

Make sure its not left hand thread, I imagine its not, being longitudinal mount but some, particularly honda, use left hand thread on the crank pulley

I've done many Honda's and haven't had one yet with left hand threads. :dunno:
 
Auto or manual?

Make sure its not left hand thread, I imagine its not, being longitudinal mount but some, particularly honda, use left hand thread on the crank pulley

Negative,

4 cyl Hondas (maybe not 100% of them) run counter clockwise and the factory bolts are tighter than Frenchie's shorts, but still right hand thread.

Looks like a Supra.

The prybar trick works, so does heat. Remember is you heat it up replace the crank seal too.

The heat will be needed to break the locktite loose
 
Oh yeah an impact gun would be fine. The pully maY move a little, just let it do its thing. And if a manual leave in gear
 
auto. should I put it in drive?

No, putting it in drive won't do anything.

Just gonna have to try the impact correct socket and heat.

There are a couple of tools to hold the balancer (crank) but its a little tricky to explain.

I'll wait to see if heat gets it
 
auto. should I put it in drive?


No. Won't do anything.

And leaving the manual in gear would work, but make sure the brake is set hard, and the wheels are chocked....or you'll run yourself over...
 
Negative,

4 cyl Hondas (maybe not 100% of them) run counter clockwise and the factory bolts are tighter than Frenchie's shorts, but still right hand thread.

Looks like a Supra.

The prybar trick works, so does heat. Remember is you heat it up replace the crank seal too.

The heat will be needed to break the locktite loose


Well, I'm sure you guys are right. I must have been mistaken thinking they were the opposite since most of the FWD Honda motors rotate the opposite direction of most.

Point being that it's always a good thing to check, I know that the ring gear bolts in my '96 Z28 little 10 bolt are left hand thread for no real apparent reason while basically every other rear end uses RH threads.
 
Well, I'm sure you guys are right. I must have been mistaken thinking they were the opposite since most of the FWD Honda motors rotate the opposite direction of most.

Point being that it's always a good thing to check, I know that the ring gear bolts in my '96 Z28 little 10 bolt are left hand thread for no real apparent reason while basically every other rear end uses RH threads.

Negative again, just about every engine turns clockwise with the exception of reverse rotation marine engines and possibly a couple others but not a Honda.
 
You cant hold an engine from turning with an automatic,there is no direct connection in the torque converter ,just fliud...maybe if you devised a way to lock the converter clutch if it has a lock up one ,you could...but an impact should spin that bolt right out--I have used one to remove a hundred altenator pulleys,using nothing but a gloved hand or a rag under my palm to hold the pulley still...you could use a strap wrench to keep it from turning too...
 
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