Go look at a FWD Honda some time, they have the crank pulley on the driver's side because they spin counter-clockwise while everything else has the crank pulley on the passenger side and they spin clockwise.
CK5
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Seized nut on a pulley. How would you remove?
- Thread starter DK5
- Start date
Go look at a FWD Honda some time, they have the crank pulley on the driver's side because they spin counter-clockwise while everything else has the crank pulley on the passenger side and they spin clockwise.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
YUP,
Honda V6's run clockwise, and I read somehwhere the newer 4 cyls ran clockwise too.
but older Hondas were all Counter Clockwise.
ChadRay13
1/2 ton status
Every Honda I've seen/ worked on didn't use reverse thread on the crank. but onto the car at hand..
The dreaded Toyota Lock tight strikes again! I've got countless encounters with Toyota crank bolts. It's gonna take patients. The best trick is the trick stated above, Put a good solid socket (no play at all) on the crank bolt and the breaker bar about an inch or so above the ground. Click the starter a few times. Usually takes 3-4 good whacks for it to break loose. Don't sit and hold the starter, bump it.
If you go the impact route, make sure you're using a good solid gun. I'd say about 600ibs/tq in reverse or more. Heat the bolt up as much as possible and go at it. Don't bother using propane or map gas. It doesn't get hot enough. You'll need an oxyacetylene or hotter.
You can try and remove the inspection plate(if there is one) and jam a pry bar up into the ring gear. Like mentioned before, you can't really stop an auto from spinning by the trans/brakes.
And the pulley is probably separating. They have harmonic balances on the crank pulley. The pulley is actually two separate pieces glued together with a rubber liner between. It is very common for them to separate with age.
The dreaded Toyota Lock tight strikes again! I've got countless encounters with Toyota crank bolts. It's gonna take patients. The best trick is the trick stated above, Put a good solid socket (no play at all) on the crank bolt and the breaker bar about an inch or so above the ground. Click the starter a few times. Usually takes 3-4 good whacks for it to break loose. Don't sit and hold the starter, bump it.
If you go the impact route, make sure you're using a good solid gun. I'd say about 600ibs/tq in reverse or more. Heat the bolt up as much as possible and go at it. Don't bother using propane or map gas. It doesn't get hot enough. You'll need an oxyacetylene or hotter.
You can try and remove the inspection plate(if there is one) and jam a pry bar up into the ring gear. Like mentioned before, you can't really stop an auto from spinning by the trans/brakes.
And the pulley is probably separating. They have harmonic balances on the crank pulley. The pulley is actually two separate pieces glued together with a rubber liner between. It is very common for them to separate with age.
DrkZide
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The easiest is probably going to be the breaker bar method. It's what I use on my 3000GT and what I used on my old C5 Corvette and the 3000GT before that one.
DK5
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So what happens if the socket doesn't bite? What's plan B?
Hasn't happened yet but I can see it since the thing is so stubborn.
I never mentioned, but apparently the prybar method was attempted at a friend's garage when my bro picked up the car. They couldn't do it and there was a bit of damage done to the nut. I'm hoping we'll still have enough to grab.
But if the impact method doesn't work what can we do? Bolt extractor socket?
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Hasn't happened yet but I can see it since the thing is so stubborn.
I never mentioned, but apparently the prybar method was attempted at a friend's garage when my bro picked up the car. They couldn't do it and there was a bit of damage done to the nut. I'm hoping we'll still have enough to grab.
But if the impact method doesn't work what can we do? Bolt extractor socket?
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ChadRay13
1/2 ton status
I doubt a bolt extractor tool would work do to the amount of torque that is required. Hopefully it doesn't resort to a new crank.
Either method, make sure you hold good pressure on the bolt with the socket. USually with the starter method I open palm push against the pry bar Making sure that I keep my hands oriented that there's nothing around to crush finger or bust knuckles if something goes wrong.
Either method, make sure you hold good pressure on the bolt with the socket. USually with the starter method I open palm push against the pry bar Making sure that I keep my hands oriented that there's nothing around to crush finger or bust knuckles if something goes wrong.
DrkZide
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I'm assuming you've/they've already tried penetrating oil to try and break the bolt free?
DK5
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Doubt it. I'll make sure we've got some fluid film handy. thanks. I sure hope the impact will work. If not, I guess the next question will be how to remove the crank... 
ChadRay13
1/2 ton status
Penetrating oil doesn't usually work because the locktite and that it can't get to the threads. But it never hurts. Just remember to use caution if you use pen-oil and then apply heat. It's been know to catch fire lol
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Worse case,
Weld a cheap socket or a large axle nut to the crank bold and then get a new one.
Could even weld a piece of metal to it.
Tell your bros friends to quit working on cars because its messing up your time.now
Weld a cheap socket or a large axle nut to the crank bold and then get a new one.
Could even weld a piece of metal to it.
Tell your bros friends to quit working on cars because its messing up your time.now
