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Seriously, how hard is it to change the starter

badmix

badmix

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I have a 1984 K5, 305cid, 700r. Ive got heddman headers. My starter is starting to get "heat soak" when I run it hard. THe truck has 125k on it and im pretty sure the starter is org. I dont have a lift, just simple handtools. What do I need to watch out for (shims?) . I picked up a Napa starter to put in.
 
Usually if a starter needs shims, they will come with the new starter. Unhook the battery first, and the little purple wire goes on the inside stud.

Also might want to look into the Ford relay mod.
 
wire in a ford starter relay, just like wiring relays on flood lights. Usually takes care of your problem.
 
Well, you'd have been better off with a Delco starter.

Either way, get you a heat shield for the starter solenoid ... Motormite aka Dorman aka Help! has one, easy enough.

-- A
 
And when you attach the wires to the studs on the new starter, be VERY careful you don't overtighten the nuts.. those studs strip out real easy. just snug them, don't kong them..

ask me how I found this out..
 
Changing a starter is about as easy as it gets. Here in MI in the mud, it becomes old habbit.... very common to have to change them. Sometimes more than once a day. I always have a spare in the trailer. Sometimes two for a long weekend wheeling.
 
LOL. I used to carry a length of 2x4 specifically to beat on the solenoid when it got hot.

Once I put Delco units in with the heat shield ... I stopped having to beat them ;)

-- A
 
dremu said:
LOL. I used to carry a length of 2x4 specifically to beat on the solenoid when it got hot.

Once I put Delco units in with the heat shield ... I stopped having to beat them ;)

-- A
Click to expand...

Inever had problems with them heating up... just getting swamped with mud water and giving up.

I was known at the local autoparts place that offered the lifetime warrenty. :wink1:
 
What Dermu said. My old starter kept crapping out when the engine was driven hard or slow trail driving/crawling. Finally I busted the cone off the housing and put on a delco starter with a heat shield blanket with the velcro closure and the nifty SS tie straps and haven't had a problem since. My starter was withen about 3/8" from the headers too. Also, if I can change a starter then anyone can. I was told that if the old starter had shims on it to use the same ones or new ones of the same thickness. That being said, others have told me to to shim it if there is some odd grinding noises or maybe take the shims out if same noises are heard. Just my two Pesos worth.
 
Talking about shimming...

for some reason, every starter that I have bought has needed the opposite of shimming to mesh with my flywheel right. I have to grind down the mounting place on the starter.

Its a pain in the ass.
 
There is no need to grind the starter.

You can shim the starter closer to the flywheel by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. If you use a .015" shim here it moves the starter closer to the flywheel by about .010"
 
UPS said:
There is no need to grind the starter.

You can shim the starter closer to the flywheel by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. If you use a .015" shim here it moves the starter closer to the flywheel by about .010"
Click to expand...

doh... do I feel stupid. I did it once when I didnt have any shims and just followed suit every time.

Oops.

:-)
 
four_by_ken said:
Inever had problems with them heating up... just getting swamped with mud water and giving up.

I was known at the local autoparts place that offered the lifetime warrenty. :wink1:
Click to expand...

Ordinarily I don't mind those; the local Harbor Freight sells me a $10 warranty every two years for one grinder, and so once or twice a year I go in and swap out a burnt one.

However, they're about five minutes away, grinders are light, and I have several :D

Starters, however, are freaking HEAVY, and only ever fail when you're in the mud, or at the least it's dark and raining and you're away from home. Bench-pressing a twenty-pound football when you're laying in mud in somebody else's driveway without your tools ... sucks. :deal:

Oh, and there is a science to shimming, involving using a medium paperclip as a feeler gauge, but it's been so long since I did it I forget =)) A search would pull up the scoop.

-- A
 
Stomis said:
Use the shims that came with the starter? I always thought it was use the shim if any are on the old starter?
Click to expand...

Umm, neither. The gear alignment is a function of the two mounting surfaces, i.e. your block and the starter, so changing one means the alignment will change.

The only way to tell for sure is to gauge the fitment and shim from that. [Or by ear to tell it's wrong :haha: ]

-- A
 
dremu said:
Starters, however, are freaking HEAVY, and only ever fail when you're in the mud, or at the least it's dark and raining and you're away from home. Bench-pressing a twenty-pound football when you're laying in mud in somebody else's driveway without your tools ... sucks. :deal:
-- A
Click to expand...

you must be luckier than me... I always have to change it on the trial in the mud,etc.




I have needed shims on every starter I have used for my 454.
 
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