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SES always on - no codes other then 12

I surmise that nearly every car fire that you see is caused by someone messing with the fuel system. Those that aren't from negligence/improper repair are probably recalled due to manufacturing defect. I don't play around with fuel.

The only concern I see with the line not being locked down, is any sort of abrasion that results from them rubbing against another piece of steel. Unless rubbing on a sharp edge, probably would take forever for the steel line to be worn through. But with the line being pressurized, any leak will also be pressurized.
 
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not to flog Secretariat here, but by this same line of thinking, oil pressure and water temp gauges are "pointless" too... :dunno:

how many guys have come in here over the yr's with,

"my truck is doing this, I've installed a new CTS, O2, fuel filter, dizzy and a partridge in a pear tree in my truck, and it still won't run right?"

only to have it turn out to be a pump sh*tting the bed? couple hundred probably..

whereas if they had a gauge like mine, they'd IMMEDIATELY be on the right track, as opposed to guessing and wasting hundreds of $ throwing parts at it.....

info is never a bad thing...
 
Well I think the "I have this problem, and spent $1000 guessing on parts before asking" occurs with just about every problem out there, but you are right, since the pump isn't as easy to swap (apparently) that one doesn't get touched as often. Or, it gets swapped without people testing it.

I agree that approached from one extreme angle, oil, volts, and coolant temp are equally worthless gauges, that's why idiot lights came about for awhile.

On the other hand, my fuel pump getting weak or dying means my vehicle doesn't run, or runs poorly. My oil pressure going to zero, or coolant temp going past 260, likely means that engine will never turn again.

I suppose the way I reason it is: fuel pump not working properly immediately results in driveability issues that force you to conduct diagnosis, or start guessing lol. If you can't see a gradual drop in oil pressure, or gradual increase in how fast the engine goes over thermostat temp (for examples) over the life of the vehicle, you have no indication of the wear/condition of the motor and cooling system, and upcoming issues that can be avoided.

That's not to say that a weak fuel pump or split hose couldn't be "seen" with a gauge before a full blown issue. I assume that in some circumstances, you could see a problem before they completely fail.
 
my problem was/is, obviously, the term "pointless"....

I've always found it to be an invaluable tool/info in MANY vehicles over the yr's, from carbed Cuda's and Chevelles to my TBI K5 and Mutt...

subject dropped...
 
Nope, totally agree. Pointless was in reference solely to permanent install, which is my opinion. Improper on my part to imply anything else.

All done. :)

Edit: Not going to muck the thread up with more responses. You called a fuel pressure gauge an invaluable tool. I completely agree. A tool is something you use, and put back in the tool box when done fixing a problem. A piece of equipment essential to the prolonged operation of the vehicle is something that should be monitored. If one of those components being monitored goes out of spec, you will have catastrophic failure. A voltmeter really doesn't meet my criteria for this, but it was already installed by GM. It also adds no complexity to the system, for the way it operates, it's failure will have no bearing on the operation of the vehicle.

I would think that in a boat, of all things, adding additional fuel line connections, no matter how well done, is not optimal in anyone's book. I look at a vehicle the same way. Most vehicle fires won't kill anyone, but I certainly wouldn't want to lose my truck because I added two leak points, and a failure point in my fuel system, when I didn't need to. Perhaps I'm wrong, but that also adds another pressurized fuel line to the vehicle, which is probably not particularly routed so that failure would not set a fire alight. If there are electric fuel pressure gauges I guess that would be slightly different. The one I used, has a hose that runs all the way to the gauge. I've seen and heard of enough oil pressure lines leaking/breaking that I'd not be interested in having the same thing happen from a fuel gauge.
 
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THEMCGUIRE said:
So I went out and turned the key and the light came on. This time got a code 44. Since the exhaust system is new from the headers back, and since I am in the "replace to rejuvenate" state of mind I will replace the O2 sensors tomorrow and take it for another test drive. Will report back asap.
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I usually like to go back to the last thing that I changed before the problem occurred. You had new exhaust run, and now you have a lean mixture code? I wouldn't be chasing fuel pressure, but an exhaust leak ahead or within 12-14" behind the sensor.

Most headers don't seal all that well. Is your O2 bung in the header near the collector? Or worse, after the collector gaskets in the pipe?

If It's running right, I might step back and look at the last thing I changed. But it could be low fuel pressure too...
 
72_jimmy said:
I usually like to go back to the last thing that I changed before the problem occurred. You had new exhaust run, and now you have a lean mixture code? I wouldn't be chasing fuel pressure, but an exhaust leak ahead or within 12-14" behind the sensor.

Most headers don't seal all that well. Is your O2 bung in the header near the collector? Or worse, after the collector gaskets in the pipe?

If It's running right, I might step back and look at the last thing I changed. But it could be low fuel pressure too...
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That's good advice!

And a good point but I never saw the new exhaust in this thread?
 
EDIT: I just when through this thread found the following that some may have missed:

Please don't be annoyed but I went to replace the O2 sensor, could not get it off, but, I found the wire was pinched between two parts of the bell housing. The CES light has been on for as long as I can remember but I had just ignored it before this.

I guess it was like that since the engine was replaced. Over time with vibration I guess it worked the insulation off until it shorted. So I cut the wire, spliced it back together by passing the pinch, disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, took it for a ride and no code.

However, given that even though the code is gone she still stumbles on acceleration:

Actually I forget why but we did loosen the new exhaust right below the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. (Remember this is not on the road yet, so far just 2 rides around the block) I let my son reinstall it. He is inexperienced and I did not check him.

While that may not be the reason for the problem I will check it asap while I wait for the arrival of the new fuel pump and adjustable regulator that I hope will solve the stumbling problem.

Good call 72 Jimmy !!!

I might mention the one of my posts "'88 Passenger window does not go down on it's own. has 73 looks and no one has any suggestions to solve the problem. Hint Hint !!!!
 
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I ran a muffler shop for many years. If your sensor is in the collector, I'd eliminate that flange and have it welded to the pipe. It's almost impossible to seal those properly.

I checked out your other thread and gave it my best shot.
 
Thanks. Since the code went away I suspect that it is not the flange. I went out and hung on it. 250 lbs and no movement at all. Bolts are tight, springs very compressed.

Could it be too tight ?
 
Springs? I thought you said you had headers. On the manifold bolts with springs, there is usually a shoulder on the stud that stops the nut before the spring totally collapses. There usually isn't a spring on a header collector. If you do get a header collector too tight, it will warp the flange and the gasket will blow out.
 
Stock exhaust. Springs on exhaust are not totally compressed just mostly.

Still waiting for the adjustable fuel regulator to arrive. Will advise when that is installed.

Thanks!!!!
 
be prepared to have your patience tried adjusting the regulator.... it's VERY difficult to get to, and can only be adjusted in very small increments...
 
Now you tell me. I am not known for my patience. lol.

Does adjustment at idle do it or do you have to adjust, drive, adjust, drive etc ?
 
what you set it at at idle is generally what it will stay at...
 
ryoken said:
what you set it at at idle is generally what it will stay at...
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I have been reading. Is there a vacuum line that has to be plugged on my 1988 5.7l TBI while setting the pressure ?

and does that CFM brand adjustor (if you know it) stay at the dialed in pressure or does it change over time ?
 
THEMCGUIRE said:
I have been reading. Is there a vacuum line that has to be plugged on my 1988 5.7l TBI while setting the pressure ?

and does that CFM brand adjustor (if you know it) stay at the dialed in pressure or does it change over time ?
Click to expand...


no vac line that I know of... you may have been reading something on a vacuum referenced regulator...

all the adjustables are basically the same (I run a cfm), and no it shouldn't change over time really..
 
When you install the adjustable regulator to the Injector Pod. Install the fuel lines to it, but do not mount the injector pod to TB. Then it is free to set the regulator screw on bottom. Use the red wire hanging from fuel pump relay, known as Prime Wire and feed it 12 volts to make fuel pump run while you adjust regulator to pressure.

When done, remove fuel lines, mount injector pod and install fuel lines.
 
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