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setting the crush sleeve

88k5blazin

88k5blazin

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alright so i convinced myself that i need to set up the rear end the proper way by replacing the crush sleeve and putting in a new one. ill be honest though i am very nervous because for some reason i manage to f things up real fast so i'm trying to avoid doing so this time since it could potentially be my life if done incorrectly. i do drive it on the highway. I have the removable pinion support on my 14bff. does that eliminate the need for me to pull the carrier or does it still need to come out due to setting the preload. i was searching for the 14bff full write up but cant seem to find it. also i have an inch pounds torque wrench but it is the click style type where u set the torque and it clicks when you reach it. is that still usable or is it necessary to have the dial type indicator
 
You don't need to pull the carrier, just be real careful with those shims when you take the pinion support out.

I've always used a dial type wrench, though the click style may work ok.
 
I have never used the click style, I would think if you are using it you would need to set it at the lowest end of the preload, rather than the highest.

Not sure if they would work or not.

I used to check my bearing preload with a 12" long steel bar with weight on the end of it.

Did a couple and had them checked with the proper tool and all within spec.

I have used a beam style torque wrench to check it. Got it from a bicycle shop
 
You need a beam style because you are measuring moving resistance...I.e. Kinetic friction. Static friction is higher than kinetic friction and the click will release before it is turning.

You could use a luggage scale/fish scale and a wrench of known length. You can test it on the handle of a known good torque wrench if you're uncertain. Mine comes out to accurate within 3% of my Snappie clicker wrench all the way up to 80ftlbs, so I don't question the accuracy. This is also how you can verify the accuracy of a wrench that hasn't been calibrated in a long time.

The shorter the better for the lever arm. The more force the scale experiences for every in-lb in torque, the less significant any possible inaccuracy will be.

That's also the only tool I know of for setting kingpin preload properly (well, you need some form of spring scale) so it's just a handy tool to have around regardless. Nice for the preload on steering boxes too until you get the feel for them.

If you're into firearms, you can find wrenches that go down to about 3-5 in lbs for mounting scopes. Makes that purchase easier to justify and they're usually cheaper than snapon or similar.
 
I rented my dail wrench from autozone for like 20 bucks, definitly do it with a dail and not clicker style.
 
So with the removable pinion support, you just put the yoke in a vise when crushing the sleeve?
 
Click style torque wrench WILL NOT work. You are checking rolling resistance not torque per-se.
 
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