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Setting up 14 bolt SF under k5

Mav2u

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 22, 2002
Posts
346
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Location
Palm Bay, Florida
Okay, found my 14 bolt SF out of a 90 4x4 with the 3:73 an gov lock. Gov lock not the first choice, but for $200 bucks I can't be choosy!!

So, how do I set up the new spring perches an shock mounts?

I figured I will be buying the spring perches from DIY4x.com for the 14 bolt.

They sell shock mount tabs, so I guess I should get those instead of trying to re-use the factory ones I cut off!

I've plasma cut off all the junk on the axle, ground the axle tube smooth for the welder to do his work. Since I can't weld at all!!

So, how do I setup the right angle an location of the spring perches? Is there a proper way to calculate it the location? Is there a certain angle I need to maintain? I've never done this before so any help would be appreciated!!! :-)
 
Finally got a start grinding the axle smooth to make way for new spring perches an shock mount tabs!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1328498699.975906.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1328498699.975906.jpg

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Looks like www.offroaddesign.com has my spring perches, spring mount tabs, an new ubolts an top plate for my axle swap! Look like good strong components!

I thought about a shackle flip that another person mentioned. Only thing is I have a 3 inch block in the rear, an the shackle flip kit adds 4 inches. So that adds an inch in the back. But does the 14 bolt axle itself add any extra heigth to the rear from the swap?
 
Well I ordered the parts from Www.offroaddesign.com today.

Got my:
- Axle spring perches for 14 bolt SF
- Shock tabs
- Upper ubolt plates for 14 bolt rear
- Ubolts for for the Tuff Country 3" rear block lift I have!

All ordered up an on the way!

Still researching the disc brake with ebrake option! It won't make the initial install, but I will plan on doing it later when I get more funds!!! Looks like a rear brake drum rebuild is my next task!!!
 
Cool and take some pics! I will have to do this in a month or two. Just needing some funds for the rest of the work. Are you doing the axle seals on the ends?
 
I am actually thinking about finding a person who does on sight welding. That way the truck is setup in position to do the welding correctly! An I don't have to lug that big joker around an take it to a welder!!!

Does a person who does on sight welding cost a lot more or just little bit more? Or would it cost less to take it to the welders??

How much should a welder charge to weld the spring perches an spring tabs on my axle?

I got the angle gauge today an measured 6 degrees at the pinion angle an 11 degrees on the drive shaft angle.

I wire wheeled the whole axle today, took off the brake lines an the Brake cylinders.


Going to order the brake drum full rebuild kit tomorrow. Might as well make the brake drums work as good as possible with new parts.

Thinking about getting some of that POR-15 black paint rust proofer to paint the axle with! Looks like a good product to paint the axle an get a nice black paint look that will last. Long time!!
 
Mav,

I didn't get my axle yoke when I picked up my 14 SF. I've tried a handful of sockets but can't seem to find the right size to fit the yoke nut. Do you know what size the nut is on your 14 SF so that the pinion yoke can be removed?

I removed my 10 Bolt several months ago with a socket but for some reason, it doesn't seem to fit my 14 SF. I'd like to get the right size before heading out to the junkyard again.

Thanks man!
 
Why are you taking off the pinion? Are you not getting the adapter ujoint to bolt up to your 10 bolt drive shaft?
 
The pinion was already off at the junkyard so I need to go and get a new one. A diff shop said that the 10 bolt yoke would not fit onto the 14 SF pinion.....is that the case you found?
 
Are you swapping over to disc brakes while everything is apart? I figured I may as well since I hadda buy new brakes anyway.
 
I don't know about the pinion swap. I'm doing the ujoint adapter to mate up the drive shaft to the 14 SF pinion. Supposed to be sold at NAPA! I'm going to get mine this week.

I'm doing the disc brake conversion later on! I'm still researching the parking brake option. Some people say it sucks while others have no problem! I have to have an ebrake on the truck!!! I did find a company called www.tsmmfg.com that has a 14 bolt SF kit. Haven't had a chance to talk with them yet about their kits!


Was hoping someone here had done the ebrake option an could chime in on the functionality of it after using it for a while!
 
I put a 14-bolt SF with the TSM rear disk brake conversion on my 73 K5. It was a very simple process. I got the axle off an 86 3/4 Burb. I didn't have to move the spring perches, it bolted right up. That being said, I may have issues with drive line angle (I added a 4" suspension lift at the same time). If you go with the TSM kit, I suggest that you go ahead and get the e-brake option, I am wishing that I did now. The nice thing about the TSM kit is that the rotors go on OVER the hub. This is very important with a SF axle. You don't want to have to remove your C-Clips everytime that you need to turn your rotors. I don't have any real good pictures here, but here is one...

Chassis1.JPG

Chassis1.JPG
 
Yeah, it cost twice as much to add the ebrake but it is worth it if I works good an reliably!!

Hopefully someone else has added the ebrake option an can chime in on this subject!! Tell us about long term operation, reliability of the ebrake, ect...

On another note!!! My kit full of parts from www.offroaddesign.com will arrive on Friday according to the UPS tracking!!!

So I'll be working on the axle this weekend getting it all setup for welding an either painting or a POR-15 treatment! I'm undecided on the cosmetic treatment for the axle!!!
 
When I swapped in my 14sf the yokes from the 10b and the 14sf were interchangable. Didn't even use a conversion joint, just swapped the yoke from the 10b over to the 14sf.

I don't suggest painting an axle with POR15. Unless you never take it off road? What happens is that the POR15 gets scratched from rocks/tree branches/etc and then starts to peel off. In chunks. I used regular old brush on rustoleum primer and then paint and it's been holding up really well to off road abuse. It's been nicked and scratched and opened up and none of it is peeling off around the damaged areas.
 
When I swapped in my 14sf the yokes from the 10b and the 14sf were interchangable. Didn't even use a conversion joint, just swapped the yoke from the 10b over to the 14sf.

I don't suggest painting an axle with POR15. Unless you never take it off road? What happens is that the POR15 gets scratched from rocks/tree branches/etc and then starts to peel off. In chunks. I used regular old brush on rustoleum primer and then paint and it's been holding up really well to off road abuse. It's been nicked and scratched and opened up and none of it is peeling off around the damaged areas.

Brian, because my yoke was missing and will most likely have to re-set the crush sleeve, gears, etc.....wouldn't I want to go with the 1350 yoke now so that if/when a new driveline is ordered along with a SYE kit, I already have the added strength of the 1350??

My thinking, if I use a 10 bolt yoke and a new crush sleeve.....in order to upgrade to a stronger 14 bolt yoke, I would have to disassemble the pinion and go through re-setting the crush sleeve again. Basically, re-doing the work again.

Of course, this is doing it the "correct" way vs. just marking the nut, changing yokes and then matching the mark again...:whistle:



I do think I found the pinion nut size though --- (1-1/4" socket) :dunno:



.
 
An experienced tech can change out a pinion yoke without having to replace the crush sleeve and all that. Do you think they replace the crush sleeve every time they replace a pinion seal? I think not. The proper method involves measuring the rotational force before disassembly and reassembling it to, or just over, that measurement. I've done it plenty of times in the past including the 10b that used to be in my K5 and both axles I rebuilt/resealed and put in it and even have to do it on my old Volvo soon.

If you are planning a driveshaft upgrade at the same time or in the future then yes, it makes sense to use the bigger yoke and just assemble it once.
 
Got a new camera now, so I can post the photos easier.

One small mistake, but I don't think it will hurt anything. While using the plasma to cut off the old spring perches it cut in the axle tube and went right through making a small hole. You can see the to small holes in the photos below.

I'm thinking the welder can just weld these holes shut and I can grind them smooth again and everything will be good. What do you all think???


14bolt-001.jpg


The second hole.

14bolt-002.jpg
 
I picked up the brake rebuild kit parts and the new brake shoes for the 14 bolt.

It was hard trying to find the parts as the parts guy wants a year, make and model of car/truck to find the parts. So I just guessed it was from a 1990 3/4 ton pickup with a 5.7 in it. It showed the 11.25" brake parts. They match up to the old brake shoe size so I imagine I have a 6 lug 14 bolt with 11.25" drums.

Some photos of the brakes and parts.

14bolt-005.jpg


14bolt-006.jpg


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14bolt-008.jpg


14bolt-009.jpg


14bolt-010.jpg


14bolt-011.jpg


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14bolt-020.jpg
 
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