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Setting up 14 bolt SF under k5

Just got my package from www.offroaddesign.com today!! Great packaging by them!

An holy moly these are beefy American steel parts!!! Definitely worth the money!!!

14bolt-021.jpg
 
So, I'm going skip the POR-15 paint of my axle. What is a good paint to buy to paint the axle an keep it rust free an looking good under the truck!!
 
Axles are out an on the trailer ready to take to the welder so he can mockup the new axle based off the old axles measurements which is also on the trailer for reference.

axles.jpg



Truck with no axle. Looks pretty funny!!!

truck.jpg
 
Mav2u said:
So, I'm going skip the POR-15 paint of my axle. What is a good paint to buy to paint the axle an keep it rust free an looking good under the truck!!
Click to expand...

Didn't I answer this already? :whistle:

I don't suggest painting an axle with POR15. Unless you never take it off road? What happens is that the POR15 gets scratched from rocks/tree branches/etc and then starts to peel off. In chunks. I used regular old brush on rustoleum primer and then paint and it's been holding up really well to off road abuse. It's been nicked and scratched and opened up and none of it is peeling off around the damaged areas.
Click to expand...

:D
 
I got the axle back from the welders! $55.00 bucks to weld on the spring perches an shock tabs. Also includes the setup time to measure the perches into position an the shock tabs since I didn't mock them up before hand. I just measured pinion angle an perch angle on the 10 bolt an then transferred the measurement over to the 14 bolt. We measured out the center an put everything where it belonged based off the measurements from the 10 bolt.

Knowing that I had to have 42.5" on center for the perches an about two finger widths for the shock tabs to the spring perches. Everything was on the mark when I bolted the 14 bolt up under the truck for the first time yesterday.

Now to clean up some of the old brake parts, then paint some pieces, an then put the drum brakes an the complete drum brake rebuild kits into the axle! Get the ujoint adapter from Napa tomorrow! Hookup the ebrake cables from the 10 bolt over to the 14 bolt. An then fill her up with diff oil and I will be done hopefully!

Things left to do
1. Get adapter ujoint from NAPA
2. Install new brake rebuild parts, brake cylinders, and brake shoes.
3. Get drums turned at mechanics
4. Install ebrake cables before brake rebuild with cables from 10 bolt axle.
5. Get new lug nuts. 14 bolt has larger lug nuts than 10 bolt. ( so get the lug nuts off donor axle to save yourself a couple of bucks! )


At the welders getting spring perches an shock tabs welded on!
welder.jpg


Left axle view after getting it mounted under truck.
axle-left.jpg


View from back after getting axle mounted under truck
axle-back.jpg
 
Why do conversion U joint instead of swapping yokes from the ten bolt???
 
Ive read they have the same spline count and will swap right over. Or you could do a conversion u joint. But to me thats one more hassle when needing new parts. You can no longer go into a parts store and say i need a u-joint for an xxxx year blazer. You gotta remember part numbers now and in a pinch i bet conversion joints are stocked less. Could be wrong but seems easier to me to swap yokes.
 
Looks like I'm in the same boat as you brother. Gotta move my perches too. Only diff is i gotta do it cause I'm a first gen narrower frame. hope you don't mind your my Guinea pig? LOL Great write up bro! Keep up the good work. She coming out great.
 
I'll pull the yoke off the ten bolt an see if it fits the 14 bolt then!

Edit: 02/24/2012 ( the crush sleeve needs to be re-done an is not just an easy swap over )

needless to say, I will be using the adapter u-joint!!
 
Last edited:
Pay attention to the crush sleeve and make sure to mark the nut and shaft to get it torqued to the right amount......

As I said earlier, I think the nut size is 1-1/4" for you.

Also, re-read my earlier post about keep the 14 bolt yoke vs. the 10 bolt one.
 
So I got the rebuild brake parts ( springs an adjuster kit ) installed along with the new brake cylinders! Took off the E-brake cables from my 10 bolt an installed it onto the 14 bolt an hooked it back up to the truck. You cannot use the E-brake from the 14 bolt as the cables are completely different an much longer. Also would depend on what vehicle your 14 bolt came from. But it is just easier to re-use your 10 bolt E-brake cables since they bolt right in place on the 14 bolt.

I did use the brake lines on the 14 bolt an hook them back to the brake line bracket on the truck as they are the same fit!

Now I just have to get the Drums turned as they look pretty smooth an rusted to eternity! Plus it's the smart thing to do when installing new pads!

Still haven't checked into the swapping the yokes from the 10 bolt to the 14 bolt to see if it will actually work! Or if the adapter u-joint is the only option! I'll check into that tomorrow when I get a chance to pull off the yokes an see if they are swappable! Unless someone here can verify for sure that it will work.

Picture of the new brake hardware installed.

brakes.jpg
 
jeff in co said:
Pay attention to the crush sleeve and make sure to mark the nut and shaft to get it torqued to the right amount......

As I said earlier, I think the nut size is 1-1/4" for you.

Also, re-read my earlier post about keep the 14 bolt yoke vs. the 10 bolt one.
Click to expand...

I thought the crush sleeve was deeper an taking off the pinion yoke didn't effect the crush sleeve! I don't want to mess with crush sleeve crap! If that is the case, I'll get the ujoint adapter! My crush sleeve got messed up in one of my other truck an caused the rear to grenade itself from the pinion!!!
 
Mav2u said:
I thought the crush sleeve was deeper an taking off the pinion yoke didn't effect the crush sleeve! I don't want to mess with crush sleeve crap! If that is the case, I'll get the ujoint adapter! My crush sleeve got messed up in one of my other truck an caused the rear to grenade itself from the pinion!!!
Click to expand...

Yea, that's how I understand it too. Long story but when I got new u-joints in my driveline I miss-read the torque reading on the pinion yoke bolts. I twisted them clean off inside the yoke. For the life of me, I couldn't drill the thing out so my solution was to get another yoke from the junkyard.

Long discussions on the "proper" way to replace the yoke.

Backyard way, make a mark on the nut and screw before removing......then when you put it back on, bring the two marks back to the same place (and also count the number of threads exposed). This, theoretically put the same amount of pressure back onto the crush sleeve.

Other said, the "propper" was is to pull the pinion out and re-do the crush sleeve.

Anyways, I did the backyard one and it did work...but who knows if I have shortened the life any.

I'd just not mess with it if you don't have to.

Here is the thread:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282797&highlight=yoke

Hey, sweet job on the brakes and good to know about the e-brake thing. I've been trying real hard to preserve that cable when I took the axle from the yard. Good to know I would just re-use my existing cable. Thanks!
 
Yeah, I'm just going to do the ujoint adapter for now. It's only 30 bucks an it'll work just fine I'm sure. When I rebuild the axle later with my eaton or true trac carrier I'll add the 10 bolt yoke onto the build then. For now I just want a working rearend.

Yes, the 10 bolt e-brake cables will be re-used on the new axle.

The brake hard lines from the 14 bolt will be used on the installation under the truck. The 10 bolt lines won't be used. They are to short, well at least mine were to use on the 14 bolt.

So close to being done!! One more day!

Just need my adapter ujoint, brake drums turned, an diff filled with fluid! I'll be wheelin by Sunday hopefully!!!
 
trav0302 said:
Looks like I'm in the same boat as you brother. Gotta move my perches too. Only diff is i gotta do it cause I'm a first gen narrower frame. hope you don't mind your my Guinea pig? LOL Great write up bro! Keep up the good work. She coming out great.
Click to expand...

Dude, I thought you got a full floater. If so you SHOULDN'T have to move perches on a first gen. Mine bolted right up.

Sorry for the hijack
 
First gen SF only came in 8 lug! The perches do match up to K5 blazer 10 bolt widths! So they should be a direct bolt up!

Second gen SF came in 6 an 8 lug. There is a 2wd width version, a 4wd width version ( 68" ) and a van width version. None of them have the right spring perch width, so they must be moved.
 
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