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Setting Valves & Distributor

Typing in all caps is not necessary and is known as yelling.

Which bolt broke? The studs that hook the pipes up, or an actual bolt?

You can't just walk into an auto parts store and tell them you need a bolt. They probably have it but you need to know what you want.

Where is this bolt going?
 
YEAH, he probably knows this, and is yelling at you arguing about doing thing "THE RIGHT WAY"

He's just saying for you to <font color="red"> STFU !!</font>

and quit being a bonehead, dude, as long as he gets it done, it's fine, YOUR way is not the only way, get off your little high horse dude, you are not as perfect and know as much as you think you do. GEEEZ /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

It's no wonder EVERYBODY here hates you,,
 
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and quit being a bonehead, dude, as long as he gets it done, it's fine, YOUR way is not the only way, get off your little high horse dude, you are not as perfect and know as much as you think you do. GEEEZ /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gifIt's no wonder EVERYBODY here hates you,,

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Talk all the [darn] you want. It's not my way. I certainly didn't make it up. If you find me one set of camshaft instructions that tell me to do it the other way I'll consider doing it that way, but you won't. There is only one honest to god way to do this (actually two) but both are with the engine off. I have only posted FACTS off of the site of a cam manufacturer. I'm not on any high horse, I also stated that many think this is a matter of opinion, but the reality of it is that there is only one correct way to do this and it is above in my post, period.

If you're doing it with the engine running, you're doing it the wrong way. You might, "get it done" but you're still not doing it correctly, period.

I never said that I was perfect, but I did say and cite the correct way to do this from a good source.

The reality of it is that if you want to do it that way, go right ahead. Just don't go pushing that crap off on someone else, because that is not the right way to do it, period. It doesn't matter if it has worked in the past, your dad has done it forever, you've been doing it for 30 years, or as stated above, "I've worked on several motors," there is one simple reality, that is NOT the correct way to do it.

It might work for you but that doesn't make it right.
 
OK dude, whatever you say dude.

ATTENTION EVERYBODY !!

ATTENTION,,,


DO NOT TAKE ANY ADVISE FROM ANYBODY ELSE ON HERE EXCEPT TIM,,,,HE IS THE ONLY ONE THAT KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT ENGINES, AT HIS AGE, HE HAS AQUIRED ALL THE KNOWLEDGE THAT THERE IS TO "CORRECTLY" DO ANYTHING TO AN ENGINE. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

Friggin goobernut /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

















/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

BTW, if i'm doing it the wrong way, then why the funk do they make those rocker arm deflectors, huh?


thats what i thought.
 
/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
Ok,
We're almost done, I bought some new exhaust manifold bolts. I just gotta teflon tape the intake manifold bolts. Bolt them down. Install the Distributor. Bolt down the TBI and hook up the brackets and sensors and we should be rolling.

One last question. If I had the #1 cylinder at TDC and rotated it 360degrees, is it back at TDC of the #1 cylinder again??

ONCE AGAIN I APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP FROM ALL OF YOU GUYS, WHETHER IT WAS FROM THE BOOK OR FROM EXPERIENCE IT WAS VERY HELPFUL! THANK YOU!
/forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Engine running and adjusting the valves is the most accurate way to do it. Using a mechanics stethoscope you can listen to valves and get them adjusted perfectly. The book method is a fine way to do them as well if: #1 you do not have the specialty tools and #2 You don't want to hassle with the mess.

I say it is more accurate to adjust the valves with the engine running due to the fact that not all parts are created equal. Some imperfections in rocker arms, lifters, cams, valves, heads, studs, etc. get through quality control inspections. Therfore a set book method only gets you in the ball park of having the valve open to it's maxium potential with out hitting the piston.

Now, you don't see every guy doing it this way because not everyone needs a perfectly tuned motor. I rarely do it this way myself. So in turn both of the previous gentlemen's posts are correct. To each his own /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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Ok,
We're almost done, I bought some new exhaust manifold bolts. I just gotta teflon tape the intake manifold bolts. Bolt them down. Install the Distributor. Bolt down the TBI and hook up the brackets and sensors and we should be rolling.

One last question. If I had the #1 cylinder at TDC and rotated it 360degrees, is it back at TDC of the #1 cylinder again??

ONCE AGAIN I APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP FROM ALL OF YOU GUYS, WHETHER IT WAS FROM THE BOOK OR FROM EXPERIENCE IT WAS VERY HELPFUL! THANK YOU!
/forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

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Yes you would be at TDC on #1 again but make sure the right valve is about to open b-4 adjusting the valves. It takes 720* of rotation to get back to the same valve TDC - if that makes sense.
 
First off, I am no expert... Worked in a garage for a few years (back in the late 80's) and did maybe 50-75 cam changes (mostly the venerable 305's of the late 70's early 80's with the self destructing camshafts).

The "correct" way according to cam manufacturers is to set them to zero lash by turning the pushrod till it starts to bind, then turning 1/2 turn (depends on manufacturer, some say up to a full turn). This is also what you will find remanufacturers doing, as well as the vast majority of repair manuals. I think this is more to keep the "newbie" engine builder from bending pushrods, trashing a new cam etc... and is an easier method to convey in print.

NOW..... Real life... You shouldn't "pre-lube" or "soak" the lifters overnight in oil as this will change the preload for the lifter. (don't believe me, ask Edelbrock, Crane, Isky etc...)Just make sure to prime the engine before starting (cut off the handle of a long slotted screwdriver, stick it in your drill and you have an engine
pre-lube tool!)

In real life I use the above to get the engine started, I then go back and re-adjust the noisy ones with the engine running. I have NEVER swapped a cam where one or two didn't need to be re-adjusted. It's a fact of life, variations in machining for the plungers, springs etc.. inside the lifter will guarantee the need to re-adjust. Once the engine is running, lifters are pumped up, pull the covers... you will probably find one or two that need to be adjusted. (might get lucky on one, more than 2 or 3 with no re-adjusting and somethings wrong....)

It is also entirely possible to cinch them down and fire it up and adjust from there. Personally I think it takes longer this way since you have to kind of tinker with each valve to eliminate lash and get the right pre-load. Plus if you don't know what your doing, you can cause damage
(bent pushrods etc...)

And finally, for the best set-up, get a set of oil-control clips and a pair of old valve covers, cut the tops off the valve covers and you have a nice way to keep oil from getting everywhere while you adjust the valves. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Thank you. Someone finally mentioned half valve covers. I've mostly dealt with flat opposed motors (which is why I was reluctant to mention them /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) and all we ever use is half valve covers. I was really confused when a buddy mentioned those little clips. Prolly about as confused when I mentioned half valve covers.

Good luck to y'all in the future. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Allan
 
[ QUOTE ]

The "correct" way according to cam manufacturers is to set them to zero lash by turning the pushrod till it starts to bind, then turning 1/2 turn (depends on manufacturer, some say up to a full turn). This is also what you will find remanufacturers doing, as well as the vast majority of repair manuals. I think this is more to keep the "newbie" engine builder from bending pushrods, trashing a new cam etc... and is an easier method to convey in print.

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This is the way I did it, I spun the pushrods until there was a slight drage. Turned, then another 3/4 turn to have them set.
As for the 720degrees, shoudl i turn the crank another 360 to set the valves so when I start the engine it won't be all screwy??
Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Because the camshaft turns at half the speed of the crank, hence the smaller timing gear on the crank and the larger timing gear on the cam. One stroke of the piston is the coompression stroke and the other stroke is exhaust.

I also have a old set of open top valve covers. The aftermarket even makes valve covers that the top is removable.
 
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I was really confused when a buddy mentioned those little clips. Prolly about as confused when I mentioned half valve covers.


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All straight now, did you use my clips yet? See ya wheeling this weekend /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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I have NEVER swapped a cam where one or two didn't need to be re-adjusted.

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/forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Seems kinda weird. I never have had to touch even one rocker arm after doing it the way I do it. I suppose you might get one if you do enough of them though.
 
Nope cuz on account the last time TJ was over we worked on the Corvair pickup instead of the Blazer. I hope to get the valves run before this weekend though. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

Good luck to y'all in the future. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Allan
 
I tend to be a little anal retentive about engine noises (I seem to hear the tiniest little sounds and they drive me nuts till I fix them)

Most people tend to err on the side of over-tightening valves, so you end up with no clatter but some of your valves may hang open a tiny little bit. At most you'll take a small hit in performance. I prefer to err on the side of under-tightening and then going back when it's running and doing a final adjustment. This way you can be sure all the valves are closing properly. Not to mention you won't get normal full operation until all the lifters have pumped up which only happens after they have run a few minutes.

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I have NEVER swapped a cam where one or two didn't need to be re-adjusted.

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/forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Seems kinda weird. I never have had to touch even one rocker arm after doing it the way I do it. I suppose you might get one if you do enough of them though.

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Yeah maybe this should have said earlier in the post, where yes you go to each cylinder and adjust them up "close" (the turning the pushrod deal) but then afterwards is when i go back and do the final "adjustment" with the engine running. As mentioned, that is when all the lifters are pump and in normal working order. Adjust by sound.
 
If I was installing a brand new cam, I'd definitely do it by the book, as Comp instructs. But after changing out the valve stem seals on my old motor, I did it with the engine running and an old set of valve covers with the top cut out. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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