shackle angle and draglink angle

[obijuank5]

@scouthead push pull is for road use and OP is at the cusp of the usability of push pull on those springs. The theoretical function of flat and flat positions is like perfect four link position. You know what it’s supposed to do, but you build around your limitations to optimize it on your truck.

Those springs are arched a lot relative to drag link length but if just focusing on bump steer, you work within your limits. Like for road use that spring isn’t gonna compress 4 inches on a bump but really much less. Still the slight upward slope is going to mitigate bumpsteer. So, at the anticipated compression of road driving it’s flat ish.

 

[scouthead]

The idea was to have the slight slope at "normal" ride height so as you hit bumps in the road, the spring flattens, moving the axle back, so you want the end of the draglink moving back at the same time. This is just for controlling normal driving bumpsteer. When you get to flexy springs, no sway bar, axle moved forward, etc., it's easy to run out of total travel angle in the DLEs no matter where you set it.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stoc...robably-should-not-use-what-you-think.329820/

AH HAAA! thank you. "roll steer" has been missing from my vocabulary for a while. I believe I have read that before, and as much as I wish it had been around to read when I last went through the front end of the K5... Im sure there were a lot of similar articles found. Yes I get that having the slight amount of downward angle at ride height would help mitigate some rearward axle/shackle movement. relative to how much vertical movement a certain spring and shackle arrangement might have though? this might be a case by case type thing?

I know it took a lot of fiddling to get the box centered again, and the steering wheel straight again... that all helped tremendously on keeping the lock to lock steering at ride height.

also, My particular K5 used to nosedive pretty badly if you stabbed the brakes (like at least 3 inches)-could be exciting on the freeway. this caused noticeable bump steer... I always thought, "meh... the bumper is 100 pounds... the winch is 80 pounds... they are both as far forward as you can get, and the springs/shocks are soft... there is no sway bar, but still WAY better than the old FJ55 used to handel!!" on finding out how out of adjustment the rear brakes on the SF14 bolt were?
no wonder I was going through 3 sets of front pads on the 10 bolt, to the one set of rear shoes on the 14... I guess this SF14bolt is NOT self adjusting??? AMAZING how flat the thing stops now that the poor little 10 bolt isn't doing 95 percent of the work! I need to keep the rear brake adjustment up more regularly.

 

[scouthead]

I always find steering and suspension designs interesting.

-if you want a mind f@$%... try and get the bump steer out of buggy or race car running a VW link pin beam type front end when it has a lot more wheel travel than stock, longer arms, center mounted steering rack... things can go from near perfect, to hellacious with very very small movements of rack mounting positions.

I'm sure if we were willing to move steering gear boxes and make custom steering arms for the 4wd chevys, the push pull type steering could get much "BETTER" on a lifted truck.

 

[Chickntrk]

I’ve always set my drag links in line with the arch of the spring, not flat, I agree with the dropped Pittman arm in this case

 

[scouthead]

so, apparently I did not use the drop pitman arm on my k5- only the raised steering arm on the 10 bolt. my drop arm must be attached to the 2wd box i have in storage.

there is ever so slightly a downward angle from the box to the steering arm.

 

[sweetk30]

so, apparently I did not use the drop pitman arm on my k5- only the raised steering arm on the 10 bolt. my drop arm must be attached to the 2wd box i have in storage.

there is ever so slightly a downward angle from the box to the steering arm.

View attachment 435907

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View attachment 435909

WHATS up with your spring perch hot mess of CRAZYNESS ?

i had one like that for a short time and fixed it with more drop to the axle . . . little to flat i found out .

and drop arm on a 2wd box would be NOT what guys are looking for or calling the ca50 arm in this thread for 4wd box . just to be clear for others later searching .

 

[scouthead]

WHATS up with your spring perch hot mess of CRAZYNESS ?

i had one like that for a short time and fixed it with more drop to the axle . . . little to flat i found out .

and drop arm on a 2wd box would be NOT what guys are looking for or calling the ca50 arm in this thread for 4wd box . just to be clear for others later searching .

I'm just sayin its been a while since i was under there for steering stuff- earlier in the thread I had mentioned I thought I had a drop arm. nope. not on this truck. stock 4wd box, and stock 4wd pitman arm. I did not end up using a drop arm. It ended up in storage for another time/project. only thing that was changed was the raised steering arm, and that would be way different on the 10 bolt vs D60


spring perches in the photo above are a result of the 4-5 inches of lift, and then clocking the transfer case up another 4-5 inches.


spring perch story:
needed to point the pinion up for driveshaft angles when the transfer case got clocked up flat. yes, could have cut the factory perch off and started over, BUT the perch on the pass side is integral to the cast iron diff housing - right? ordered some degree shims for the pass side. rotating the diff up caused the old hole for the spring pack center pin not to align well with the center hole in the shim... was some other minor fitment issues as well, but in the interest of keeping everything symmetrical, it was easier to just weld the degree shims into place on the housing (yes local welding shop gave me some kind of MiG wire that was supposed to help keep cast iron from burning or cracking, and there was a lot of pre and post heat applied). I had thought about only using the shim on the diff, and putting a new perch on the driver side, but rolling the diff forward also changes the up and down height of the machined spring perch area a little...

had to change the profile of the bottom of the cast iron where the pass u bolts ride, so they sit correctly and clamp correctly.

after that "inner Cs" came off and were welded back on adjusted to however many degrees i had changed the diff angle... tossed some zero rates under the rear packs to offset any small amount of extra lift i had just added to the front -then off to the races?

also - couple lifetimes of dirt, rust and grime under there, and this is taken right after a 1200 mile on/offroad trip... I remember when I painted all that stuff gloss black!

-you know you like my blown damper! it was the only major battle scar from the trip... well, also the blown baffles in the muffler, and all the pin striping down both sides of the paint

 

[Fastereddie]

Let’s just say when the spring is flat is when you want the drag link flat. That is when they are at their longest. Matching those together is your best chance for controlling bump steer.

This