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shackle flip or lift springs

shackle flip or lift springs?

  • shackle flip

    Votes: 45 73.8%
  • tc lift springs

    Votes: 16 26.2%

  • Total voters
    61

isaac

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 9, 2004
Posts
168
Reaction score
2
just wanting everyones input about this. i want to get rid of my lift blocks but i dont know what to do. i want to do a shackle flip but it looks like a big pain in the you know what. from having to re-shim my axle plus having to probably move my axle back an inch using a zero rate giving me a 5" lift. and if do a lift spring all i would have to worry about is re-shiming the axle and i would have new bushings on the rear. i use my blazer mostly for hunting, some wheeling and pulling an atv trailer. like i said any input would be appreciated.
 
Some people don't like to tow with a shackle flip, never really got a real reason why, they are probably stronger then stock. If you go with lifted leaves in the rear the ride tends to be pretty stiff. I have cheep 4" springs in my k5 and it gets pretty rough it the back seat. If I had to do it again I would go with a shackle flip
 
either way you are removing the springs and the u-bolts...


one way is just cheaper and rides better and gives you something to yap about, as for towing I shackle flipped My 3/4 ton and could not feel the difference towing while towing in the area of 9k. I was driving on a seriously over curvy rode with some nice climbs and descent's.


the other is really straight forward, and cost more..might ride worse.


if the spring cost 200-300 bucks, stand back and look at the truck and ask you self where else could really use 300 bucks.. then decide;)
 
I thought I would have to shim my axle to but it actually rotated it just right being that the rear of your spring pack drops down therefore rotating your axle in place.

Just my .02.

Awesome ride BTW.
 
I have a ord shakle flip and it works great. i installed mine in a weekend. pretty much can do it with basic tools, (although if you have access to a plasma cutter you save a ton of time.) You have to support the rear off your vehicle and drop the gas tank. then cut out the rivits for your old hangers, i would suggest unbolting the leaf springs first. the kit i got had the bolts and everything lined up perfect.

FYI a 4" shackle doesnt quite equal 4"s more like 3.25.
My rear suspension consits of ord 4" shakle flip, 1" zero rate, & 4" BDS springs. that combo totals 8" of lift. I tow a 22ft trailer aprox 3500lb to the mountains (18ft boat 22ft trailer) which is about a 125 miles @ 60-75mph and have no issues. The ride is very smooth for the size of lift.
 
You shouldn't need to move the axle back with the shackle flip either, at least not on the '73-up style K5's. I've heard maybe it's more of an issue on the '72-older style, but never looked at the stock spring hanger setup.
 
FYI a 4" shackle doesnt quite equal 4"s more like 3.25.

longer shackles would help that some. IF the shackle sat directly vertically, a 1" longer skackle would give you 1/2" lift. but i believe it's supposed to sit at a 70 degree angle or something ( can you tell i don't have a flip? ha. ) the extra lift would be a little less. might actually help pinion angle even more than a normal flip does because it will point it just a little farther up.
 
I run the 6'' shackle instead of the 4.5'' factory length and yes it tilts the pinion alittler higher. I run the flip brackets, 6'' shackle, and a Z. Rate for 6'' lift on my pickup. I had to rotate the pinion down as it is alittle to high on pickups but would probably be good on a blazer. Rides great and I tow my car to the track all the time, no issues.
 
thanks for all the replies. i was thinking about ordering the shackle flip with the 4.5" shackles and a zero rate just in case i have to move the axle back an inch. not sure about having to shim it, because in order to get my axle at the right degree i had to put a 3 degree shim to work with my lift blocks. oh yeah dose kert happen to notch out for the hitch on the axle flip bracket because i dont have a plasma cutter and i suck cutting with the torch.. :haha::haha:
 
Don't do what I did, order a shackle flip, then during dissasembly you notice one of the main leaves is cracked :o and end up having to buy new springs anyways. In the long run, for me, it was better. But maybe not for what you are using your truck for
 
I have one of the old echobit flips- its held up, but its not really the same as the ORD unit. In fact, I secretly believe ORD has some angular adjustments built in, but....

Anyways, why towing with a flip sucks:

The net effect of your springs that it becomes MUCH softer. (hence your ability to stuff/droop is improved).

If you try to tow with it, your tongue weight is all over the place, very inconsistent.

Change your bushings while your at it.

Truth be told, if you get airbags and what not, or a weight distrubtion hitch, the problems go away.

The other problem that gets interesting...
the front and rear spring rates get a little screwy. They arent balanced perfectly, and you get a little bit of weird bump steer.
 
Pushing your axle back with a zero rate adds to an already stretched driveshaft length. I would pass on the zero rate unless you are planning on driveshaft mods.
 
I have one of the old echobit flips- its held up, but its not really the same as the ORD unit. In fact, I secretly believe ORD has some angular adjustments built in, but....

Anyways, why towing with a flip sucks:

The net effect of your springs that it becomes MUCH softer. (hence your ability to stuff/droop is improved).

If you try to tow with it, your tongue weight is all over the place, very inconsistent.

Change your bushings while your at it.

Truth be told, if you get airbags and what not, or a weight distrubtion hitch, the problems go away.

The other problem that gets interesting...
the front and rear spring rates get a little screwy. They arent balanced perfectly, and you get a little bit of weird bump steer.

Towing with a rigged setup and stock springs would suck.
Kerts setup and ords are designed well and with new springs they preform well and do not cause issues with towing. For those that have the echobit flip or some home brew with 25 year old springs can not compare to the flip kits. So for you to say that towing sucks with the flip kit is not correct. Especially when you talk to us guys that have kerts & ord's and tow with no issues. compare apples to apples. I have the ORD kit, (although kerts looks beefier, wish i wouldve got that one:thinking:)
 
just wanting everyones input about this. i want to get rid of my lift blocks but i dont know what to do. i want to do a shackle flip but it looks like a big pain in the you know what. from having to re-shim my axle plus having to probably move my axle back an inch using a zero rate giving me a 5" lift. and if do a lift spring all i would have to worry about is re-shiming the axle and i would have new bushings on the rear. i use my blazer mostly for hunting, some wheeling and pulling an atv trailer. like i said any input would be appreciated.
i like my lift springs.fyi,most lift springs come with the correct shim for what application you buy it for.mine were 300 dollars from procomp and they ride a whole lot better than the stock spring and block setup i had.the fact that the block almost fell out kinda pushed me into that purchase also.but im glad i did.towing with it is also much better because the highwer spring rate also.just my opinion
 
honestly I would like to know what type of wheeling he is doing, we all jump on the blocks will kill you and your loved ones band wagon too quick.


I have beat the ever loving snot out of my truck with 4 inch blocks I miraculously survived to tell the tale!:rolleyes:

if this thing is seeing daily driver or light trails its a wash. If the springs are OK the ride could benefit from just getting new bushings. A block getting spit out under a rig should usually be blamed on maintenance or improper torquing of the lug nuts, not the block.


new slogan!


blocks don't kill people, owners do!

:haha:
 
blocks don't kill people, owners do!
Thats funny! I ran blocks for years and never lost one. I did have a 2" aluminum block break! But never fell out completly. Blocks do cause axle wrap though. If the rear springs are in good shape, no sagging, I would do a flip. I made my own flip shackles.
 
honestly I would like to know what type of wheeling he is doing, we all jump on the blocks will kill you and your loved ones band wagon too quick.


I have beat the ever loving snot out of my truck with 4 inch blocks I miraculously survived to tell the tale!:rolleyes:

if this thing is seeing daily driver or light trails its a wash. If the springs are OK the ride could benefit from just getting new bushings. A block getting spit out under a rig should usually be blamed on maintenance or improper torquing of the lug nuts, not the block.


new slogan!


blocks don't kill people, owners do!

:haha:




the kind of wheeling i do is logging roads that most people dont take their average truck through when people see my blazer parked in some of these areas they ask how did you get up here? most of the roads are pretty rough here in new mexico and i use my truck for hunting and retrieving deer/elk off the mountian. and if the road is too rough i do take my atv up. so the reason i ask springs or shackle flip is because i want to get rid of the blocks. the only reason i got the blocks was because i didnt have the extra cash for rear springs or the shackle flip at the time.
 
I agree that blocks work fine for offroading. I also agree that lift springs are better. As far as ride i would say springs or flip are better for ride. i do however get some axle wrap with my flip kit, although not near as bad as it was with blocks.
 
I agree that blocks work fine for offroading. I also agree that lift springs are better. As far as ride i would say springs or flip are better for ride. i do however get some axle wrap with my flip kit, although not near as bad as it was with blocks.

this makes no sense that lift springs are better, if you are comparing stock springs or lift springs..in general, a set of stock k5 springs should have a lower/softer spring rate then a more positively arched and higher spring rated set. The Blocks while they should increase the leverage and add some spring wrap, they should not change the ride. The stock flat springs with a lower spring rate should not only ride better but also will flex better on the trail. If spring wrap is a concern add a traction/anti wrap bar and it will make your springs last longer as an added bonus. Add the fact that in most applications a truck or longer wheelbase vehicle would be more appropriate for towing duty anyways I see no reason to really factor towing much at all. I can not see towing with a lifted short wheel base k5 if its more than in town or over a couple thousand pounds.

to really mix it up.. I beat the hell out of my truck with the hanger chopped to hell both in a flipped position then when I got the deavers I put the shackle back through the factory way..


I have not even welded up the hole in the hanger and seriously have put the hurt on my truck in ways I honestly dont think most on here ever would do to a k5. If my truck can handle the abuse, not to mention the huge hole and lacking material in the hanger and not have a failure then these shackle flips with the materials used are more than safe.Its a lifted and modified vehicle, adjust your driving and habits to suit that fact.
 
I got a homade shackle flip on the rear a my 91 truggy. front spring hangers off the rear springs on a 78 chevy and 2 inch lowering shackles from ebay. whole thing cost 60 bucks. runnin 5.5 procomp springs for a 91 and 14.00 20 michelins and spooled rockwells with a tbi 350 and a stick.

axle wrap is a concern but so far hasnt yielded any broken parts. i thought the wrap woulda been really bad but its actually not. and i beat it like it stole my lunch money! (Got several broken axle shafts to prove it!)

i like my shackle flip. roll with it! way better spring action and geometry for articulation IMO.
 

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