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Shackle flip, ORD, help.

Fordum

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Folks, I have managed to let my mouth outrun my knowledge.......again.

I have some friends who run a wrecker service. The owner's oldest son is in the process of doing some mods to his Chevy truck.
He has put on some fairly tall tires, added a body lift I think, and done some kind of suspension work.
I was doing some electronics work in the office while he and his father were discussing his truck.
His problem is mainly rear tire clearance. I don't have all the details yet, but I wanted to get a thread started here so I could have some info to take to them tomorrow and get an idea of what questions to ask.

They were discussing blocks. I think he took the factory blocks out and put in some slightly taller ones.
Now, he was wanting to go up an inch or so, but neither of them liked the idea of the blocks he had, much less higher ones.

Having hung out here, I spoke up with the standard suggestion.
Shackle flip.
They both looked at me. His father had an idea of what I was talking about, but wanted to know more.
I suddenly realized I was stumped. I had a pretty good idea of what they were, but no idea of how to explain them.
Never put one on in my life.

Told them to google it. When I saw ORD, I told them it was a good place to get the parts.
Almost immediately ran into another problem.

There are 2 inch, and 4 inch shackle flips. While they were looking at that, I piped up with the idea of adding a zero rate if they needed another inch or so.
That got me another strange look. I told them to check out the ORD site, or come here and do a search.

Fortunately some work stuff came in, and I cleared out before I had to answer more questions.

But I will be going back tomorrow, so I need to get some more info.

I realize that there are no hard and fast answers, and I have not given enough information for even some good guesses, but........

Say he gets a 4 inch shackle flip. That will, in theory, move the back end of the rear spring down about 4 inches from where it is now.
About how much clearance would that translate at the tires/axle?
I know a 1 inch zero rate will give about an inch, since its at the axle, but I figure the flip will give less than its rated.

Or, is the 4 inch rating measured at the axle?

I am trying to get both of them on here. The son would learn a lot, and his father is catching the bug.
He used to do some serious mods and has a fairly impressive mud truck sitting in his lot.

But, he owns an older stock Blazer, and is thinking about getting the fever again. He is already talking about one tons front and back, maybe a big block, and 44 inch tires.......

Any suggestions, questions I need to get the answers to, or just general info I can take with me tomorrow will help.

I threw ORD in the mix, because I am trying to get him to buy from them as they are online here, and I was hoping Chris might chime in also.

Thanks
 
The 4 inches is referring to how much the truck will be lifted, not how much the shackle is moving. I have installed both an ORD shackle flip and a DIY4X shackle flip. I like the DIY4X flip better over all, but think the ORD flip looks better, visually. The Diy flip was easier to install and making different length shackles for it is much easier
 
If the shackle flip puts the shackle mount in the same place as stock, the lift at the axle is the same as the shackle length. So if the shackle is 4", flipping it over moves the rear spring eye 8". Assuming the axle is at the center of the leaf spring, it gets 4".

But they make the 2.5" and 4" versions for this reason. Not everybody want so much lift or so much change in pinion angle.

Which is what they will ask about after it's done...how to get the driveline and pinion angle right.
 
But, he owns an older stock Blazer, and is thinking about getting the fever again. He is already talking about one tons front and back, maybe a big block, and 44 inch tires.......

Get him on here before he orders 12" lift springs and a 3" body lift. Then again, you're in Florida. I think they still build them silly tall down there for swamp running. :whistle:
 
Yeah, he must be thinking of Super Doody or 90's Dodges. Chevy trucks left the factory safe.
 
Say he gets a 4 inch shackle flip. That will, in theory, move the back end of the rear spring down about 4 inches from where it is now.
About how much clearance would that translate at the tires/axle?
I know a 1 inch zero rate will give about an inch, since its at the axle, but I figure the flip will give less than its rated.

Our 4" flip drops the tail of the spring 8" which nets 4" of lift total in the rear, same 4" you'd get out of a 4" block or a 4" lifted spring.
 
Yeah, the idea of factory blocks sounded a little strange to me too. One of them made the comment that they had taken the factory blocks out and put in the lift blocks.
I know my Ford 250 has some kind of "blocks" under the rear springs that are factory.

They look almost like extra thick zero rates. I'll grab a pic the next time I walk by. I just figured his truck had something like that.

And he got his truck used, I think, so the PO might have put something under there.

As for the pinon angle, I think that he may already be having mild issues with the lift he has now.

Wouldn't the shackle flip tilt the pinion up slightly and tend to help with the angle?

As for his father's truck, its not his first rodeo. I think his other truck had something like 8 inch blocks.
But he was a younger and foolish back then. And yeah, we need higher lifts down here than most of you are used to.
I run 12.50 33s on my 250, and use better driving skills and a winch to go places that others use tall tires to get to.
I have winched out trucks running 39 to 44 inch tires that were bogged up to the bottom of the windows..........

It was a little surreal. I was winching on what looked like a normal truck. When it hit hard ground, it started rising up and just kept on going up.

I'm working on getting them online.

Thanks for the info. I'll post pics of the kid's truck when I get some. He has put a lot of time on it.
He as put his money in areas I would not, but I am the type of guy who prefers function over form.

Not sure what he paid for the rims, but I would have put that money in a winch. Plus maybe lots of other accessories.
They were not cheap.
 
Yes, the shackle flip brings the pinion up. Typically it points straight at the tcase output. This is good for use with a CV driveshaft, not good with the stock driveshaft.
 
Yes, both K5s I lifted with shackle flips both ended up getting a CV rear driveshaft installed
 
Doing the math a 4" shackle flip would point the pinion up about 7 to 8 degrees more than stock (30-ish inch slip yoke driveshaft). I have a 4" shackle flip on mine and the rear pinion is by no means pointing directly at the t-case. With a 1350 joint I actually had to slightly clearance the yoke to avoid interference at full droop.
 
Well, I got a chance to go by this afternoon. They were working on the front bumper mount in between calls due to some kind of clearance issues.

I had E-Mailed some of the replies I got last night to the office, and his father showed them to him.
He was in and out making runs and we did not get a chance to talk.

This is really one of the first times I actually looked at the truck with any interest. I got a few shots before I had to run do some stuff myself.

There are a few things about it I had not realized when I posted my first post. First, its 2WD, not 4WD, so no transfer case, plus its a stretched cab, so between the two, he may not have the driveshaft problems most of you folks have had.

I wanted to get some shots of the rear suspension, but did not get a chance. I may get some tomorrow, not sure if I can get by there.

Here is what I did get.

T1.JPG

T2.JPG

T3.JPG

T4.JPG

T5.JPG
 
Oh so it's that kind of truck. Tell him to just put some 4" blocks in the rear. I think he'll like it just fine. Even 2" blocks may be enough.
 
This.

These pics are definitely not what I was expecting lol

:D


Me either.. Where's the logos on it??


monster-logo-background_zps6625974a.jpg
 
Well, in his defense, its not finished yet. It took him weeks if not months to just decide on what wheels he wanted.
For a long time, everytime I saw him and he was not working, he had wheel catalogs in his hand, or some pics he had downloaded off the web.
When he finally decided on what he wanted, he drove almost 400 miles one way to buy them.
They would have shipped them of course, but he did not want to wait.
He wants it perfect, he is just not sure what perfect is........
 
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