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shackle flip vs. lift springs

daylton said:
I have always been against blocks I have seen to many get knocked out for something stupid.. sounds dumb but I am just personally against them..
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I am with you man seen too many wonky things happen with blocks.

So if going for a 4" lift. Someone said 3" tuff country springs a ez inch for the front. That's a good idea. Add that with aftermarket shackles and you end up slightly higher than 4".

In the rear I tend to like to lift about an inch higher than the front simply cause I load my rig down a lot. It also tows more than I would like it too. Also I like the way it looks more. I would also do a shackle flip in the rear.

Put good shocks on it and be prepared to check travel before you order shocks. You may need custom shock mounts
 
looks clean.. and thank god it's got a tan interior and not maroon or blue..


contrary to what Martin might say, auto's are faster and better wheelers.. that said, I'll take the joy of a third pedal any day... :haha:
 
my last one was an auto, I just felt the need to always press my "clutch in" but it was my E Brake :doah::haha:its 2 hrs away I got to go after work but I told him its sold im buying it for $3200
 
Just bustin your nuts.. ;)

many would say an auto is a more functional way to wheel... throwing a hand throttle in evens things out somewhat..
 
An auto is more functional to wheel if you can't drive a stick...

You don't need a hand throttle if you have a 6.2





I feel like I'm posting in one of those terrible Facebook wheeler groups in this series of posts... :doah:
 
Nobody has said it yet, but check the condition of the rear springs before you go and order anything! No sense in ordering a shackle flip if your stock rear springs have a crack and need to be replaced anyways. That's what I did on my 89 k5. Ordered the 4" front springs and 4" flip for the rear. Got to installing them and while we were fighting to get the front spring bolts out, half of the wrap on the back of the main spring leaf (where it goes around the bushing) fell off! So I had to go to a local spring shop and buy a new set of stock leaves
 
I have 4 inch blocks on mine but they are cast iron no alum like some of the cheap ones. I have never had an issue and I beat the crap outa my truck. as long at the ubolts are tight you should have zero issues and a nice factory ride.
 
sreidmx said:
I have 4 inch blocks on mine but they are cast iron no alum like some of the cheap ones. I have never had an issue and I beat the crap outa my truck. as long at the ubolts are tight you should have zero issues and a nice factory ride.
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:thumb: but i still wont do it. i have heard many of success stories but many failures as well and thats enough for me to not do it.
 
if you do competent work, it wont fail.. as said, the big 3 use it all the time... only poor quality parts and/or backyard/poor mechanics have blocks fail..

it's like guys coming in here, I refuse to use a bodylift, blah, blah, I remember hearing stories, yada, yada... absolutely nothing wrong with a 1" BL.. most will say it's actually BETTER than a stock mounting.. a 3" is perfectly safe too when done correctly with SAFE components, but a bit hokey in most peoples thoughts due to bumpers, etc..
 
just as a follow-up to that.. I'm not saying a block is the bee's knees and you should do one... they have their downsides, just trying to quell some of the myths out there...
 
ryoken said:
just as a follow-up to that.. I'm not saying a block is the bee's knees and you should do one... they have their downsides, just trying to quell some of the myths out there...
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fully understandable just freaks me out anything can fail as well too
 
Like Ryoken said, if done right, they aren't going to hurt anything. You are more so doubting yourself than the part at that point.

Martin
 
daylton said:
:thumb: but i still wont do it. i have heard many of success stories but many failures as well and thats enough for me to not do it.
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People lose thier wheels all the time too, does that mean you don't want wheels on your truck? :pimp:
 
daylton said:
only 35's

going to 4" lift w/ 35's
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if its only 35s on a wheeling /hunting rig..I'd go NO lift, cut the fenders, beat the firewall back where I needed to and put the money into something else I needed (lockers/gears/hand throttle)...but thats just me
 
I went with rear lift springs myself. The reason was mentioned above. If you go with a flip, you need some "stock" springs. Are you going to use your 30 year old factory ones and pair them with some fancy ORD front springs? Didn't make sense. In my case, I already had Rancho lift springs, so I would have had to obtain factory springs somehow, and who knows how they will sit compared to what the new front lift springs do. I expect there's tweaking involved to get it right, plus the PITA of the shackle flip install - vs. buying a kit meant to go together.

Having said all that, I get how highly arched springs might not flex well. I have no complaints with 4" ORDs though. I couldn't argue with someone buying the flip kit though plus ORD springs designed just for that. It's just time and money.
 
well im definatley not cutting my body up its way to nice to do that too...
maybe down the road if she gets beat up... but the plan is to only do moderate trails so hopefully that doesn't happen.
 
I'm looking at the DIY4X shackle flip and saw something about flipping the sides when installing them. What benefit is there to flipping them? It's going on a 89 Burb. I was also thinking of going with 6" shackles if that matters. I was looking at the post on the vendors forum, but most of the pictures are gone and couldn't find much. My other burb currently has a ORD 4" flip, but we welded to frame because the burb was so damn rusty, it was to much work to drop the tank :whistle:
 
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