CK5
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Shop cost to fill R12 in 1990 Suburban? Or fREEZE 12?
- Thread starter eagle mark
- Start date
Yes I knew. 
just trying to get a laugh at all the rumors. 
But PW wagon pretty much summed it up couple posts earlier.
just trying to get a laugh at all the rumors. But PW wagon pretty much summed it up couple posts earlier.
TexasSilhouette
1/2 ton status
Online Refrigerant certification is easy and cheap.
I’ve been picking up R12 off Craigslist for some time and paying $20 or less a can. I got a couple really old 14 oz. cans a few months ago.
I’ve been picking up R12 off Craigslist for some time and paying $20 or less a can. I got a couple really old 14 oz. cans a few months ago.
Yeah I heard it was fairly easy to get a certifacate. Here, 30LB bottles of R12 go for $500. and $50 per little can.... I got the HC12a for less than $5. per can. Online they are as low as $6.99 a can and blow colder air than I have ever had? 
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
OK I found an R12 gauge set locally for 10 bucks, and freon for 20 a can. What about oil?
I figure a system that's this old should get some new oil right?
I figure a system that's this old should get some new oil right?
Actually, my old system 1990 has 140K and oil has never been changed in A/C. I don't believe mineral oil ever goes bad in these systems until compressor fails and everything is full of metal... this is usually because of a liquid freon leak and the oil goes with it, then there's not enough oil and failure... When a system is new, and flushed and dry you flush compressor with oil, add a little to each part of system, evap, condenser, receiver, There is a specific amount. To much is not needed and impairs cooling.
That said if you add an once use mineral oil with dye or add one once oil and dye. Next time you have a problem/leak it will stand out like a sore thumb when looked for with UV flashlight and UV glasses.
That said if you add an once use mineral oil with dye or add one once oil and dye. Next time you have a problem/leak it will stand out like a sore thumb when looked for with UV flashlight and UV glasses.
Yeah, the mineral oil, if it has not be overheated somehow, or contaminated with debris from the desiccant bag coming apart or the compressor eating it's self should be good.
The new stuff will absorb moisture if the system has been open for a while.
The new stuff will absorb moisture if the system has been open for a while.
TexasSilhouette
1/2 ton status
SOP anymore, if you open or charge your system - add uv tracer dye. SO much more reliable than the electronic sniffers and you can see where a leak was after the refrigerant is gone. Great advice.
