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Should I go w/ CV shafts and an SYE??????

F

fad2blk99

1/2 ton status
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I just got a front D60 and now I wanna upgrade my shafts to at least 1350 size front and rear. What are ya'lls thoughts on going with a rear CV and/or a slip yoke eliminator kit. If I don't NEED a CV then I'd rather not get one (I'm running around 8" suspension lft). I really don't care about vibration issues -- just strength and reliablity. I've been leaning toward the SYE for the stock 241 t-case for a while for the extra driveshaft length and, most importanly, the ability to run w/o a rear shaft.
What do you guys and gals think?
 
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I really don't care about vibration issues -- just strength and reliablity

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vibration = reliability issue
 
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Three words:

"High Angle Driveline"

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/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif not everyone has 400-600$ to drop on a shaft /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
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vibration = reliability issue

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I figured that much... but its not my daily driver... so I'm not concerned w/ a little vibration if it keeps me from having to plop down the extra cash for the CV...


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Three words:

"High Angle Driveline"

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/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif not everyone has 400-600$ to drop on a shaft /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

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My sentiments exactly......

How about Driveshaft Superstore? They seem to have descent prices. Anybody have any feed back on them?
I just looked at their 1350 Hi angle slip yoke CV... but of course its $395 + shipping /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
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How about Driveshaft Superstore? They seem to have descent prices. Anybody have any feed back on them?
I just looked at their 1350 Hi angle slip yoke CV... but of course its $395 + shipping /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

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Yeah. That guy is a fawkin' crook. Don't guy a damn thing from him.

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Three words:

"High Angle Driveline"

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/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif not everyone has 400-600$ to drop on a shaft /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

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Everyone seems to have $2000 for axles, another grand for lockers, 500 for crossover/hi steer, another 500 for hydro assist, yet they won't spend $500 on a driveshaft?

All of those items are useless if you break your driveshaft. All the haeavy duty axles in the world are worthless with nothing turning the pinion.

I only have one HAD as I only needed one to achieve my goals, but ALL of my u joints are 1 ton or bigger, and this can be done on a budget depending on your rig's setup.

Saying you have money for axles, gears, lockers, and don't have money for driveshafts is just plain stupid in my opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

That is fine though, if what you've got is holding up, stick with it, it obviously works.

I know every time I hammer down the last thing I think about breaking is my driveshafts, and I really like it that way.
 
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Three words:

"High Angle Driveline"

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/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif not everyone has 400-600$ to drop on a shaft /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

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Everyone seems to have $2000 for axles, another grand for lockers, 500 for crossover/hi steer, another 500 for hydro assist, yet they won't spend $500 on a driveshaft?



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I sure as hell never said that! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif $2K on axles... not here! /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif And no I wont spend $500 on a shaft. $295 seems like a hell-of-a-lot of money, to me, for a driveshaft! I guess I'm cheap fauker or something but the money people put into these rigs are getting crazy! Then they run out and chop the body off /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif What happen to driving and wheeling a blazer? Not some tube buggy-thing-a-ma-gig /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Grant it some look cool, and if thats what they want to do cool deal! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I like the looks of blazers /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif I might at some point trim my roof up for a full convertable look. I guess once I trash the body on the blazer I MIGHT feel different at that point. But to see folks spend a year restoring their vehicle and then spend a weekend chopping it into a cab seems silly to me /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I'm sure I'll catch flack for saying this but O'well. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

Getting back to the point of the post, Like you said, I'll have LESS in my rig than "some" people do in their front axle /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

The only way I could/would drop the kind of money that some people on this site do, is if I won the lottery! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif The only way I could afford a H.A.D. is if I won one in the giveaways! I have no doubt, to some people, the parts are worth the money and I have no doubt they are quality parts (and they better be for those prices). But not to me. Not right now. I'm not rock crawling, I want a vehicle I can drive, run trails and have fun with friends... letting the truck sit in the driveway waiting to save up $500 here and $500 there sucks! I'd like to go to more runs so I'm going to try to get it back ont he road with minimal $$$ so if I do roll, bash it or break it I'm not out the big bucks... Time I got, money I dont! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I got the DD blazer I restored and spent alot of money on before I got to this site. Thats also the reason I dont wheel it is because of the time and money I put into it. Thats the whole reason behind me buying the second blazer to trim and wheel.

I see your point for the need of a GOOD line esp if your dropping money for other parts. BUT, if someone scrimped and saved to buy that D60 front axle because everyone says you have to have one to wheel, they probley arn't going to have the money to drop on a line, crossover, hydro, all at the same time. If they do cool, go for it!

I think alot of people on this site are like me and want to just go be in the group and wheel around. If others are like me, they are probley always feeling like they are playing catch up trying to get the new toys that everyone says you have to have to wheel... I'm done with that, I just want to drive the truck again! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I dont care if I have to relocate my axle back on my 52's I'm going to run a raised arm for a short time till I come across a crossover steering deal I can't pass up. I appreicated the products the great people of this site put out and the information everyone passes along but I can't drop the coin that most of this stuff cost. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
 
Actually it’s not stupid at all...
Drive shaft u-joints are very cheap and easy to come by and easy to change on a trail; however when it comes to upgrading, it can cost $700+.
As for plopping down thousands on other stuff... yup, your right! I've got several thousand invested so far. I've also wasted money on various mods I don't need and would like to minimize that in the future. That is the reason I asked the question. I know I need 1350s and probably a CV, but what about the SYE? That might be $300 I don't need to spend. If I can achieve good strength and reliability w/o the SYE why get it? A soda bottle and duct tape can get me home w/o a rear shaft. OR... perhaps I should get the SYE, thereby giving me more driveshaft length, possibly negating the need for a CV (and the extra cost/maintenance of a third u-joint). After all, the general consensus seems to be that in any CV driveshaft the CV is the week point. I merely wanted to hear input from my fellow CK5ers

Additionally, your liberal use of the “stupid” label is both childish and offensive and has no place on this forum. You can express your opinion (which I do want to hear) without the ridiculous name calling.
 
I bought my drivelines from: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/4x4_off_road.html

They look and work great.

I use to have vibration now I do not. Very smooth.

You need to worry about vibration, because there is no reason to have it in the first place. It is too easy to eliminate with proper geomerty. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
I bought my rear cv from Arizona Driveline and have had nothing but great luck with it!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
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Actually it’s not stupid at all...
Drive shaft u-joints are very cheap and easy to come by and easy to change on a trail; however when it comes to upgrading, it can cost $700+.

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If your u joints are binding at ride height, (mine were) then it's not going to be long before you have catastrophic destruction of your u joints on a regular (if they were as bad as mine, make that a daily basis. Binding will destroy a driveshaft quicker than anything else.

Also, I don't know where you 'wheel, but if I were to lose a driveshaft at the wrong moment, in some situations, it could get rather scary both finding a place to change it and ensuring that I can get under my truck safely in an off camber nasty rutted spot.

Change the phrase, "stupid" to, "a bad decision on the part of the majority of people that have serious cash invested in their rigs" and all should be fine. Basically what I was trying to illistrate is how silly and, "ridiculous" it is to upgrade everything else, and end up having your biggest shortcoming being your driveshafts.

As I said, there are budget ways to build bad ass drivelines depending on how your rig is set up though, if you've been around you've probably seen the guys running square tube, non-CV shafts, etc. MR4WD even made one with 1410 joints on one end and a 1480 on the other. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

And for you guys just starting out going four wheeling, forget about the, "You have to have a '60 to be on the trail crowd." Every time I go out I dream about all the new parts I want, just like anyone else. Just because one guy has 1 tons and the other doesn't, doesn't mean squat. You run what you got for now, and if it breaks, you might have to upgrade later. The important idea, as jeremiah said, is to get your ass out of the garage and get on the trail. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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I bought my rear cv from Arizona Driveline and have had nothing but great luck with it!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

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Scroll up and read what I said about driveshaft superstore. You're on of the minority if you've had a good experience with him. He has been sued so many times he has at least 5 different names for his company (it keeps changing)

My friend ordered a shaft from that guy and it took him 6 months to get a credit for it because it was worthless and ill-fitting so he could not install it on his rig.

This was one of his $800 bad boy shafts that would not fit his TH 400/NP 205 combo without hitting the trans pan, and there were numerous other issues with it. Needless to say, he sent it back and he had to call and argue with the guy on a daily basis to get his money.

Me and others have said a lot about Jesse and how he takes care of his customers. The last time he sent me $100 worth of u joints (and ate the shipping) for free, he told me to, "Think of it as sponsorship." /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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I bought my rear cv from Arizona Driveline and have had nothing but great luck with it!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

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Scroll up and read what I said about driveshaft superstore. You're on of the minority if you've had a good experience with him. He has been sued so many times he has at least 5 different names for his company (it keeps changing)

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I don't get it... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Is this the same guy from driveshaft superstore?????
I'm pretty sure I've seen his ads around for a couple of years now. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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I bought my rear cv from Arizona Driveline and have had nothing but great luck with it!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

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Scroll up and read what I said about driveshaft superstore. You're on of the minority if you've had a good experience with him. He has been sued so many times he has at least 5 different names for his company (it keeps changing)

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I don't get it... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Is this the same guy from driveshaft superstore?????
I'm pretty sure I've seen his ads around for a couple of years now. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

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Yes.

Arizona Drivelines, Gleeco, Driveshaft Superstore, and he has a few others, they're all the same company.

I have spent quite a bit of time explaining what he did to my buddy. In the end his hack job that hit the transmission pan and wasn't built correctly went back and it was something like 6 months of him calling him every day before he got a credit for it.

From what I understand he has done this to a number of people and that is why his company name changes every few months, to avoid lawsuits he goes out of business and then pops right back up again under a new name.
 
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OR... perhaps I should get the SYE, thereby giving me more driveshaft length, possibly negating the need for a CV (and the extra cost/maintenance of a third u-joint).

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That's why I'll be spending the dough (which of course I don't have...) for a SYE. More shaft length = better u-joint operating angles = longer joint life = cheaper wheeling in the long run.
YES, we're probably only talking a couple degrees of angle change.
YES, it'll take a LOT of u-joints to equal the cost of the SYE.
BUT, if that couple degrees helps the u-joint hold together until I'm back in my driveway, then it's worth it (to me, anyway). I don't relish the idea of changing u-joints on the trail in who-knows-what conditions. Or even worse, having a joint break on the drive home and the shaft destroys everything in it's path.


My personal opinion: The slip yoke is a poor design feature on a 4WD vehicle that WILL be used offroad. It's strength and reliability are questionable, and it's instability near the end of it's travel range will only cause greater problems. Therefore, eliminate the problem. It's money well spent, rather than money pissed away.
 
Okay, to awnser your questions.
If I were you I would seriously think about future plans and desires with the truck.
If you plan to keep the 241 do the SYE, and run a C.V. shaft.
The C.V. shaft is going to cost you but with 8" of lift I will guess that you will have to have one to get u loints to live for any length of time. Evne with the extra length that the SYE kit will give you.
 
Thanks for the help guys... now if I could just get Hi-Angle driveline to reply to my e-mail /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif... (it was kinda long, though /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif)
 
I've been debating this question for awhile also....get an SYE or just upgrade the shaft. I really wasn't planning on ever getting a CV shaft with either option because...1. I only run 4" of lift so there isn't a binding issue....2. it's a trailer queen that only sees maybe 30 miles of asphalt a month so wear from vibration or angles really isn't an issue.

If your truck is mostly for the trail and will see limited highway speeds, than I just can't see the justification to spend the extra money for a rear CV shaft...assuming you don't have binding issues with the 8" lift.

As far as the issue with the slip yoke when a shaft fails, I paid $25 for a stock spare front and rear driveshaft.......if the rear one let's go just slap in the spare and keep going.
 
Around $1,500 to go completly one-ton w/ SYE and a CV!?!?!?!?! I think, I'll just do the SYE and run single 1350s or 1410s..... I'm running 7" lift but the rear axle is pushed back 1.5". My angle isn't too bad now. Another 6" in length gained from adding a SYE and I should be good to go. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif $350 vs. $1,500..... hmmmmm I might just have to see if I can break a single one-ton shaft first..... I'm thinking my t-case 'll go first....
 
Well, measure how long your shaft is going to be and decide from there. Mine is around 52" long and I've had no problems with having two 1350s in it for two years.
 
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