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Should I keep my 12 bolt or go for the 14 bolt.

8

85scottsdale

1/2 ton status
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Dec 22, 2003
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Lewisville, NC
Will be running 35" tires in a 85 K10 shortbed truck with 208 and 700r4 and 350. I was thinking about just keeping the 12 bolt and beefing it up to handle the 35" tires, putting alloy shafts in it and upgrading the drivehshaft u-joints. Main reason for keeping the 12 bolt is for the ground clearance, right now I am running 33" tires and have just a hair under 10" of ground clearance. How much would I lose with a 14 bolt shaved or un-shaved?
 
i ran a 12bolt with 35's for a couple a while with no problems. I guess it depends on what kinda driving ya do.

edit--but i do have a 14bolt now /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I don't have personal issues with the skinny pedal, i'll get somebody to winch me before I go crazy on the skinny pedal. Were not talking about mudding here, were talking trails and rocks.
 
don't wast the money upgrading the 12 bolt just put in a 14ff /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
MUD ??? where in Arizona is there mud?
I just like the basic security of knowing that i have a stronger unit that will not be prone to breakage as easily as the 10 bolt was and did. hell i didn't even know it was broke until like 3 weeks later and a trip to and from California later,,,
 
I say run the 12 bolt. Unless you can afford to buy new rims, gears (if needed), bearings and seals to run that 14 bolt. That stuff adds up quick and it sounds like you're on a budget. I also wouldn't upgrade the 12 bolt. I've seen lots of 12 bolts survive with 35" and larger tires (up to 38's!) Get a few spare shafts, some spider gears and a cross pin and be done. Heck.. you could probably get that stuff for free /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Yeah i guess i should have mentioned to go ahead and upgrade if he has the cash for it, it did take some decent cash to get everything rollin right, hell it took me damn near 2 years before i could get everything matching with the 8 lug setup and matching gears. On a very tight budget, actually i rarely ever have any money, thats why it took so long.
 
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I am running 33" tires and have just a hair under 10" of ground clearance. How much would I lose with a 14 bolt shaved or un-shaved?


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Don't forget about that. He'll be lucky to have 6" of ground clearance with a shaved 14 bolt and 33's /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
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I've seen lots of 12 bolts survive with 35" and larger tires (up to 38's!

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Mine is one of them! I have been running my 38's for 2 years with no issues and I have been in some situations where I SHOULD have broken something and it held up /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

I can buy a LOT of 12b parts before I can justify stepping up to a 14BFF and all the costs involved with the swap. BUT..I am NOT a throttle jockey. Drive smart and it'll last longer than most people think. I have had my rig in and out of places where 1 ton guys couldn't go (mainly 'cause they couldn't drive very well) I personally wouldn't run any bigger than a 38x12.50 on a 12b, but that's just my opinion. In fact, I'll be stepping down to the Irok 37" next time I buy tires. Like I said, I can break a LOT of D44/12b stuff before I can justify the cost of going 1 ton.
 
I could afford to do the 14 bolt swap, thats not an issue, but for right now I am only running 33" tires and won't get another set until I wear these out and their brand new, less than a 1k miles on them.

Right now I have just under 10" of clearance under my 12 bolt and right at 10 for my front 10 bolt. It would be very nice to keep that. 14 bolt is going to really kill that, and thats no good when i'm going through ruts and stuff.
 
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right now I am running 33" tires and have just a hair under 10" of ground clearance. How much would I lose with a 14 bolt shaved or un-shaved?

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Thats an interesting question, i am still only running like 32.5' tires or so, the actual measurements are 265/75r16. Same ones in my current pics. I'm going to run out right now and check this little thing out and see what i have there. Will let ya know in a few minutes,,, /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

Interesting, according to the trusty tape measure, my tires are only 30 inches tall /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif as they are sittin on the ground, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif and the at the lowest point on the diff, it's 7.5"to the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
How about a 6 lug 14 bolt semi-floater? Should be plenty stout for 35's at least....stronger than the 12 bolt, 6 lug and more ground clearance than the 14FF /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
A 14SF would be plenty strong for 35's but you would still lose a couple inches of clearence compared to a 12 bolt but less than a 14BFF. The problem is that the 14BSF 6 luggers are hard to find, expensive, and don't bolt in because they are the later style and spring width.
 
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right now I am running 33" tires and have just a hair under 10" of ground clearance. How much would I lose with a 14 bolt shaved or un-shaved?

[/ QUOTE ]

Thats an interesting question, i am still only running like 32.5' tires or so, the actual measurements are 265/75r16. Same ones in my current pics. I'm going to run out right now and check this little thing out and see what i have there. Will let ya know in a few minutes,,, /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

Interesting, according to the trusty tape measure, my tires are only 30 inches tall /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif as they are sittin on the ground, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif and the at the lowest point on the diff, it's 7.5"to the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

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Hmm, 7.5" and 30" tall tires, not sure what mine measure exactly but it is close to 33" with 35 psi in them, so maybe if its shaved I won't really lose that much? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Warn was making a full floater kit for the 10 and 12 bolt rear. It might give you the security your looking for. Not sure if they still make it or not.
 
Thats alot of money for a kit when you could just get the 14bff used for around $100-200 and then a set of wheels for another few hundred.
 
I still say keep what you have. Free parts are always cheaper than parts you have to buy /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif You'll have to be trying pretty hard to break that 12 bolt with an open diff and 33's. If you do manage that then you should change to a 14 bolt full-floating or semi-floating axle. I went 3/4 ton after my pinion went on the 10 bolt rear, then I went full 1-ton after the 10 bolt carrier got spit out in the front. I'd wait but that's JMHO /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I would swap in a 14BFF. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
You might as well put in a virtually bullet proof axle and never have to worry about it.

I fragged my 12 bolt when my Burb was on 32" BFG's. I shot chunks of ring & pinion through the diff cover and bent the factory limited-slip carrier. Long before CK5, I made the mistake for putting close to $900 into the 12 bolt for a new R&P, Auburn LSD, install kit, labor etc etc. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

I now have a 14BFF with 35" MT/R's, which are actually closer to 34" tall with 28psi in the tires. Under the unshaved 14BFF I have 9.5" of clearence. Under the D44 up front, about 11". /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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