CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Slampig 700R-4 to 465 swap thread

drop the hammer

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Posts
160
Reaction score
0
Location
Massachusets
Well hell I figured I am going this far with it I'll make a build thread to try and help anyone doing a 700R-4 208 to a 465 205 swap. The 700-R4 crapped out on the Slampig so it was time to beef her up. The Slampig as she is affectionately know is a '83 Blazer, 350, soon to be 465 205, 12bolt rear, Dana 44 front, 6in" lift, 35in" mudders. First off please excuse my horrible spelling, and now that I have made it a build thread I will post more picks than the 2 I have at the time. This is my first crack at this and I am sure I have done things in a different order than the pros on this site might have, but just hope I help some one. I will eventually have pics as well. First of I recomend that anyone doing a swap have a good solid set of tools, full rachet sets, full combonation wrench sets, especially metric. Those sizes that most kist come with come in handy if your set is properly equiped. To be dead honest my best friend so far has been a large can of P.B . Blaster. Its like WD-40 on steriods. I started by pulling my whole interior out, carpet and all. Only suprise was the seat belts are held in with torx head bolts. I then removed my tranny hump, which started by disconecting the shift level for the 208, which didnt give me any trouble. Also I recomend have a variaty or wrench sizes to pull the funny cotter pins you will run into. I then unbolted the transmition hump
<a href="http://img252.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trannyswap1oa4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/67/trannyswap1oa4.th.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>

and found out why my transmition blew,

<a href="http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trannyswap2hi3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6807/trannyswap2hi3.th.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>

And then in my out of order way of doing things and that fact that I work on it from day to day after work, I dropped the drive shafts out of it. Cake walk as long as you have the right size. I am repeating myself but have the right tools makes a job easy. While under the truck I also discconected the speedo cable and shift linkage to the 700-R4. got back in the truck and disconnected everything that was attacted. If your worrying about making a mess, this is a time when you will make a mess, so get your kitty litter out. One pain I had was disconecting what I believe is refered to as the kickdown cable. It ran from the carb to the tranny and was a bit of a pain, but with a little help from my wife, we were able to get it out, fishing through the engine bay. Yet again out of order I unbolted my exhaust from the manifolds, whiched looked like it was gonna be inpossible, but after a P.B. Blaster soaking, was able to get it out. Thats enough for a start, will continued after I have more pics



Alright I have my 700-R4 out and putting the bell housing in and tranny clutch etc. isnt a problem. My problem is this is my first auto to manual swap, and I have no idea wear to run the linkages from the clutch through the firewall and to the bellhousing. Its a manual clutch set up, I have all the linkages, the part the blots to the frame somewear but I just dont see a factory punch or hole that it all goes through. Looked though other swap threads and in my books but couldnt find what I am looking for. No one has really had this problem I guess. Lost and aint afraid to ask for help. Pictures would be awesome as well.
 
Last edited:
Slapperbar said:
Hate to be a dik but, "membership"

And ultimately I don't really have an answer.

Yeah I would but my truck is eating too much money to become a "full" member. Anyway through more searching it seams that there is a dimple in the floor board that requires a 2 in" hole cut. I have found 2 dimples that are pretty close to each other and both appear that they could be it. So now the question is which dimple do I drill out:confused:
 
Try hanging your clutch rod down to the floorboards. I bet this will be close enough, to drill a hole for the rod. By the way I only noticed one "dimple" to drill out on mine...
 
drop the hammer said:
Yeah I would but my truck is eating too much money to become a "full" member. Anyway through more searching it seams that there is a dimple in the floor board that requires a 2 in" hole cut. I have found 2 dimples that are pretty close to each other and both appear that they could be it. So now the question is which dimple do I drill out:confused:

Im acctually swapping in a manual in my blazer tomarrow. if i remember to take my camera along i will snap a few photos for ya.

P.S. Not all of us are pricks on here either.
 
Slapperbar said:
Hate to be a dik but, "membership"

Then dont be. u think that you couldve went about it alil more tastefully.
What kind of impression do you think that it passes along? Why would he want to join a site "full of jerks that dont have any answers?"

(Ive gotten a lot of usefull info on this site, i enjoy it. its people like you that make the rest of us look bad.)
 
try to find a truck that has a manual trans in it and look how it is all set up. try to copy it.
 
I have searched the local junks yards and cant find a manual tranny, just need a pic of wear its suppoesed to go.1 pic somebody please
 
YZEATER said:
do you have the pedals in? your gonna have to just cut a hole and get it close.
no there not in yet, cause judging by how it all goes together I cant put them in till the hole is there. Still searching the web for a pick, and I do appreiate everyones help so far.
 
Mine actually had a 'cover plate' that I pulled off to put the clutch rod through.

If you've got a shop manual, I think mine had a good image of how it all goes together.

-Ben
 
you can unhook the rod and put them in. that's what i did. but make sure you pay attention to how they came out. had to hunt for a truck that had a manual cause i just figured i could get it right. i was wrong. i just got through with this swap. depending on what year the rig was the donor pedals came out of you're gonna have problems. i connected the rod and let it hang. then i cut a long slot instead of a hole and put a boot around it. one thing you're gonna watch out for is the brake rod coming out of the brake booster going to your pedal. on mine i went from a 77 truck to a 85 blazer. the hole was a different size. pain in the a**. one guy told me i would have to change my brake booster. i was not about to do that. it was hard and probably not right but i just made the hole bigger by drilling it. it's worked so far. it's hard so watch your drill cause it's gonna want to spin and could hurt ya. i was real careful and used plenty of lube to help drill. if you have any more questions i'm free with my info. i'm not a D**k. lol
 
BigBen said:
Mine actually had a 'cover plate' that I pulled off to put the clutch rod through.

If you've got a shop manual, I think mine had a good image of how it all goes together.

-Ben

Yeah I got the Haynes manual and they dont have anything for a picture of how it all goes together, unfortunately
 
Randy92782 said:
you can unhook the rod and put them in. that's what i did. but make sure you pay attention to how they came out. had to hunt for a truck that had a manual cause i just figured i could get it right. i was wrong. i just got through with this swap. depending on what year the rig was the donor pedals came out of you're gonna have problems. i connected the rod and let it hang. then i cut a long slot instead of a hole and put a boot around it. one thing you're gonna watch out for is the brake rod coming out of the brake booster going to your pedal. on mine i went from a 77 truck to a 85 blazer. the hole was a different size. pain in the a**. one guy told me i would have to change my brake booster. i was not about to do that. it was hard and probably not right but i just made the hole bigger by drilling it. it's worked so far. it's hard so watch your drill cause it's gonna want to spin and could hurt ya. i was real careful and used plenty of lube to help drill. if you have any more questions i'm free with my info. i'm not a D**k. lol

I believe my petal assembly came out of an '84, and my K-5 is an '83, so it should be pretty damn close I think. From looking at it I shouldnt have to change my brake booster, seems like the brakes will line up and no have a problem. I really dont wanna hack up my floors cause they are rot free, just wanna know which dimple to drill the hole in. My current idea is once I get the bracket that goes to the fram bolted on I should give me a clue as to wear to drill the 2in" hole. Shounds like a good plan right:confused:
 
drop the hammer said:
I believe my petal assembly came out of an '84, and my K-5 is an '83, so it should be pretty damn close I think. From looking at it I shouldnt have to change my brake booster, seems like the brakes will line up and no have a problem. I really dont wanna hack up my floors cause they are rot free, just wanna know which dimple to drill the hole in. My current idea is once I get the bracket that goes to the fram bolted on I should give me a clue as to wear to drill the 2in" hole. Shounds like a good plan right:confused:
yep sounds good to me. that's sorta what i did but didn't take my time and do it right. lol just kinda wanted it together and it works and no leaks.
 
Randy92782 said:
yep sounds good to me. that's sorta what i did but didn't take my time and do it right. lol just kinda wanted it together and it works and no leaks.

My problem, I am starting to get impatient myself, and I am just trying to slow myself down. Still cant believe no one has or can go take a pick of where there linkage goes through the floor area.
 
we just kind of eyeballed mine and cut the hole. you should be able to get it close.
 
Top Bottom