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Sleeved 454?

MOBK5

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I picked up this 1991 tbi 454 and started the tear down. Never disassembled an engine before but I have done a ton of research and I’m extremely comfortable with this task. But... is this block sleeved? Looks nothing like any bare 454 or even sbc blocks I’ve seen.

If so, can anyone give me the pros and cons of this?

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Run it and don't worry about it.
If done properly, and it probably was or else it wouldn't still be running. It's fine.
If your going to build 1,000hp with that engine I would probably look for a different block. But for a stock-500hp level. Don't worry it would be fine.
 
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look like cast in valve relief spots .

sleeving a whole block that's super common = waste of money .

i would be looking for rust problems or frozen busted out areas of the block by the looks of the bottom end with the pan off .
 
4 bolt main!

Any idea on what Gen block? 4 or 5? I think 92 was the change to the Mark 5 motors.

What heads will you use?
 
look like cast in valve relief spots .

sleeving a whole block that's super common = waste of money .

i would be looking for rust problems or frozen busted out areas of the block by the looks of the bottom end with the pan off .
100% correct on not being sleeves. Looks normal after a clean up. So... what’s up with the grinder gouges at the bottom of the cylinder? All cylinders have it to some degree.

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I’m going to have the bare block dipped after I fully strip it down, then I’ll have a good look at it. Most of that thick rust is surprisingly just surface rust. I bought this cheap with no idea if it ran or not. To be honest I wanted to learn something new and this sounded fun.

Ignore the mess. Doing this outdoors in a driveway is frustrating at times.
 
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The few sleeved BBC engines I've seen ,the sleeve was about 1/8" thick,and easily noticed..that engine doesn't look like it has one to me ..:dunno:
 
4 bolt main!

Any idea on what Gen block? 4 or 5? I think 92 was the change to the Mark 5 motors.

What heads will you use?
10069286 Big Block V8 1990-1991 454, 4 bolt, Mark IV, Short deck

I haven’t decided exactly how much I want to sink into this. My goal is 500 hp from bolt ons and stock heads can handle that but who knows. I’m not interested in having the block bored out unless it is necessary.
 
The few sleeved BBC engines I've seen ,the sleeve was about 1/8" thick,and easily noticed..that engine doesn't look like it has one to me ..:dunno:
I was being an amateur. Hopefully I shook that off.

Maybe my makeshift balancer removal “tool” will help someone in a jam one day and make up for all this.
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The rod looks to have been ground on, for balancing, and I wouldn't trust those castle nuts on the rod bolts...
it definitely has been apart at some point in it's life..
 
Thank you for the input. Any recommendations for rod nuts?

And you seem pretty knowledgeable on engine building.

Should I let the machine shop build the bottom end or do it myself? I’ve never rebuilt an engine but I’m extremely confident in my ability to do so. Is my ego outpacing my ability?
 
ARP if your building the engine just use there stuff . get a rod bolt kit and have the machine shop install them and size the rods . then you can spin it all you want and not be afraid of the bottom end flying apart .
 
Just my .02 here....

I intended to assemble my current 454 but while pricing machine work for the block etc the shop offered to assemble the short block and degree the cam for $200~$250 (can't remember exactly), seemed pretty cheap so I let them do it.

I agree with sweetk30, buy a bolt kit and have them installed by a machine shop. The rod bolts are pressed in to the rods so it's do-able but not typically done at home.
 
I have to drop off the front and main caps at the machine shop Monday so I’ll see what all they’re willing to do while staying within my budget. Thanks again guys. Awesome group here.
 
I agree with what has been said above about the rod bolts etc. you can't go wrong with ARP. If your budget allows, replace the main bolts as well with a stud kit and have the block line honed.

ARP holds extremely tight tolerances and installing a stud kit will make the main caps seat straight and true in the block. Then the machine shop will skim cut the caps, tighten
everything down and pass a line hone thru the mains.. making the crank bore straight and true.

Another thing,,when you bring the block and heads to the shop to be cleaned, bring everything...valve covers, oil pan, front cover, bolts, push rods, rockers etc.. most of the time they will throw it all in to be cleaned with no extra charge...
 
Spoke with the machine shop earlier this week and they confirmed that someone had previously sleeved all 8 cylinders. They have only tanked it so far, so I don’t have any more information.
 
what ? :yikes::confused:

sleeved all 8 ...... this should never happen unless its a ultra rare block or aluminum block and you need steel sleeves in it then .
Na, my buddy has a 350 with 8 sleeves. It was all bored out so they sleeved it. It's really not that rare.

Edit: actually it's a 383 these days....
 
what ? :yikes::confused:

sleeved all 8 ...... this should never happen unless its a ultra rare block or aluminum block and you need steel sleeves in it then .

The machinists reaction was similar to yours. He said he has been working in machine shops most of his life and he’s never seen that before.
 
The machinists reaction was similar to yours. He said he has been working in machine shops most of his life and he’s never seen that before.
I've also seen in back in my dirt track days when you have an aftermarket block but need to stay to Cubic inch limit.
Blow it up on Saturday night and you have to stay under a limit, sometimes boring isn't an option.
 

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