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Slight modifications......

FOR MUD

1/2 ton status
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Clayton Del
FOR MUD submitted a new Build:

Slight modifications......

It all started back in 96 when my 88 Chevy pick up was totaled. So I went out and got this 81 body on a 76 frame 1/2 ton. Don't hate the 80s look

View attachment 230276

Put some 38" TSLs on it. Ran it in the mud for a couple of years. Blew a couple of motors, and a trans or two. When the rears gave up, I put a 8" lift on, 44" Boggers, 60 front, 70 HD rear and a doubler.





Rolled it with no cage.....


Read more about this build here...
 
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Cutting the frame.







Made a cart for the rear. Sits at ride height an adj angle.



All this to fit this.



Never realized how much hardware there is hold it together.

 
The rabbit hole is a funny thing.

My buddies jeep was the same way. From a trail rig YJ, to longer leaf swaps front and rear, then one tons, then link swaps front and rear, then a v8/465/205, then it was rebuilt for race, and then an auto swap. In the end he just threw it out and had a chassis built. Ironically he has a friend thats following it the same wasteful footsteps despite the numerous warnings to just sell the jeep and do a chassis rig lol.

Idk what you're going for but you're pictures just really reminded me of how things progress over a course of time lol.
 
For some reason, I always thought this was based off a Suburban.... Oh well. I'm watching :popcorn:
 
Finally got some time to work on this again, so I ripped the rear apart. Found some rust in there. Must have been from condensation from sitting outside for a while. I don't think it's going to hurt anything.



I need to remove the brackets and mounts.



So some heat and a couple grinding discs later all gone.



Checking to see if the truss will fit.





I did learn the Dana 70HD and the Dana 80 housings are just about the same in size. ( Will have to do some slight grinding to make fit )
I'm also going to have to make the frame height 3" higher than what I wanted to run.
 
Reinforce the inner frame with some 3/16" plate where the cross member is going to go. Drilled some holes in it to get some weld in the center. Didn't need to do any drilling on the frame it's self....All ready had plenty. :surepal: Chevy and their Swiss cheese frames.....



Went to try and bend some 1/4" wall tubing with my just made air/hyd bender.......Well it bent alright.....Just the wrong thing.



Cheap China :poo:

So I had to go old style.....At least I'm going to get an upper body work out the next few months.



Got some tube bent.




Welded up the link section. Then welded it to the member.




Still going to add some gussets from the tube to the frame and might some more plate in between the tubes.
The driveshaft can drop 12" without binding (Will only need 8") or hitting the crossmember. The crossmember has 23" clearance to the ground.
As it sits now, The lower links are about 2" from being parallel.....Thinking about lowering the frame height down 2"....Just need to see what thats going to do to the uppers.
 
Slowly plugging away at it. Got my link brackets attached and mocked up some PVC tube to see how it all fits together.

At ride height....




Full compression... 8"





Full droop... 8"





Tilted... 8" up 8" down





Next step is making the body narrower ( Also will be lowering it 3" - 4" too )......Removed the sliders and floor to about where I want it.

Before....



After....



Once I get some tube, shocks, seats, steering column things will start moving.
 
I just hope it works.:D......One thing I did learn about links, there's a lot of compromises that needs to be made.
 
Looking good, I like the PVC mock up...

So, putting in a 'scab' plate as opposed to boxing the frame because...... Just trying to get an idea of the madness behind the method. :burb:
 
Looking good, I like the PVC mock up...

So, putting in a 'scab' plate as opposed to boxing the frame because...... Just trying to get an idea of the madness behind the method. :burb:

Since the frame is whole lot shorter ( Still might cut another foot off ) and the tube work, sliders and transfer cast mount/skid plate acting a reinforcement. I'm not to worry it's going to flex much anymore.

That's a pretty big leap thinking I have a method to this.:D
 

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