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sm465 clutch needs replace

chevy wrangler

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
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Location
el paso, texas
okay so late ly my clutch has been slipping alot, dunno why . it smells like clutch all the time!!! so i need a new one, i have tried the search option but cant seem to find any answers. i found a clutch on ebay and i cross refrened it to this http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=15299

will this work on my truck?? its a 1979 chevy with a 350 and a 465:confused:,,


does anybody know where i can find a clutch for cheap??? help a poorboy out guys!!

thanks
 
looks good to me. dont forget to consider the flywheel. it will need to be resurfaced, if not replaced.
 
you need the 11" clutch. i just did mine a week or two ago. went in like cake. 11" 10 spline 1 1/8 shaft. i paid 100 for mine at autozone, i just got the cheap one (duralast) it has a lifetime warranty. so far it has done outstanding. i dont foresee any future problems
 
thanks i think ima go with the luk, so umm whats the best way to install it?? i dont wanna take out the motor, like i did on the other truck?????
 
camsk5 hooked it up with a centerforce dual friction when i bought my 465/205 combo off him, it hooks up really good and doesnt seem to be wearing that fast at all, check into those
 
BlaKK54Speed said:
you need the 11" clutch. i just did mine a week or two ago. went in like cake. 11" 10 spline 1 1/8 shaft. i paid 100 for mine at autozone, i just got the cheap one (duralast) it has a lifetime warranty. so far it has done outstanding. i dont foresee any future problems

I believe the 11" and 12" clutch fit the same flywheel. I went for the 12", and would suggest the same for anyone's rig that sees anything further than street duty.
 
BlaKK54Speed said:
i paid 100 for mine at autozone, i just got the cheap one (duralast) it has a lifetime warranty. so far it has done outstanding. i dont foresee any future problems
I have a Centerforce II and would not ever get anything else. If the extra $100 cost is worth it anywhere in your rig, its in the clutch.

I replaced the clutch (with the help of my dad) at ~140K with a Napa clutch. It was noticibly better than the original clutch that was in the truck.

When I rebuilt/stroked the motor I decided on a Centerforce and would never consider anything else in the future for any application that is demanding from the clutch. Everything about it is better: pedal force, ease of engagement, grip (if you need it), etc.

My brother has a Centerforce dual friction in his LT1 Camaro and I feel the same way about that.
 
I too would like to know the best way to change these. Mine needs it something awefull. Thanks!
 
You should be able to run a 12" clutch. If not, 11" will be OK. If you don't have a high horsepower engine, and your tires are well matched to your gear ratios, a stock type LUK clutch will be fine, and $150 is a good ball park figure. There's really no good reason to run a high dollar clutch, if you have a mostly stock set-up.

I drive a 1983 K10, 305, SM465, 3:08 gears, stock size tires, with over 154K miles on it and original clutch. It still doesn't need a new clutch!

On the other hand, my trail truck is a 1974 K10, 454, SM465/NP205/NP203, 4:10's, 38's, and locked front and rear. I use a stock type Zoom clutch from Scummit Racing in it. I've smoked it a little a time or two, but so far, it still works fine. When it quits, I'll probably switch to a Centerforce then.

Good luck!
 
i will admit the centerforce is probably the best for your money, if i had the cash i would have bought it.

the best way is to get a good tranny jack and just lower the trans and t-case all at once. i spent 2 days on mine and only took that long because of the shops hours i was using. (on base)
 
well ima check the gm crate engine we took off of the 3/4 ton truck . we took it off because it smoked and found out some of the rockers were off , so this weekend ima check the pistons and if all is well i'll just swap engines with a new clutch in it
 
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