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snapping steering box bolts

Magikal

Magikal

1/2 ton status
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Nov 25, 2007
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ok, i keep snapping the four bolts that bolt my steering gear box to the frame. I have added a reinforcement plate to the frame to prevent cracking. No matter what i do, i keep snapping these bolts. I use grade 8 but it doesnt help. keep in mind, i wheel this thing pretty hard, off road only vehicle. running 4" lift, 35x15x14.5 swampers, d60 front, 14ff rear. I am just wondering if anyone else has this issue and, if so, what is the fix for it? I am at a loss as to what to do to prevent this from happening short of going to full hydraulic steering...

thanx in advance for your guys' help!!
 
weld on plate ?
in my opinion should be for fixing broken frames first .

or

bolt in brace kit ?
if helping a frame live before or after braking this would be my first item to install .

and adding hydro assist lots of guys say it takes a lot of the load off the box/frame area .
 
Magikal said:
ok, i keep snapping the four bolts that bolt my steering gear box to the frame. I have added a reinforcement plate to the frame to prevent cracking. No matter what i do, i keep snapping these bolts. I use grade 8 but it doesnt help. keep in mind, i wheel this thing pretty hard, off road only vehicle. running 4" lift, 35x15x14.5 swampers, d60 front, 14ff rear. I am just wondering if anyone else has this issue and, if so, what is the fix for it? I am at a loss as to what to do to prevent this from happening short of going to full hydraulic steering...

thanx in advance for your guys' help!!
Click to expand...


That setup isn't that extreme, so you shouldn't be snapping anything. Obviously a reinforcement plate and brace will help keep the frame in line, and cut down on torsional stress. My only suggestion is that the steering box must be moving around and putting a side load on the bolts. First, make sure obviously that you are using the right kind of bolt. Check the threads in the box and the mounting holes in the frame to make sure they aren't beat up and hogged out, allowing the box to move. Lastly make sure you're torquing everything to spec. I'd be interested to hear what the cause turns out to be.
 
Correctly built and installed hydro assist.

But the bolts should not be breaking on a regular basis.
 
heck to add to my first post in here .

I have a c-10 with factory 6.2 engine. its got a frame so busted up the box is ready to fall off and also over 1turn of the wheel to get a reaction at the tires . the stock bolts are still in it .

so like said something wrong here .

also were are you getting the bolts ? lots of cheep china crap out there now.
 
I vote loose bolts.

Do you still have the sleeves/spacers on the inside of the frame?

Fyi, 3 of the 4 bolt holes in the box go all the way through so you can get a loner bolt and put a lock nut on the outside (preferably a Stover or pinch style nut).
 
Allen head bolts are probably the toughest ones available...they are used on aircraft and machine shop applications where high grade & strength are critical..more like a grade 10 than a grade 8...

I think GM found those spacers under the bolt heads were something that cant be done away with also..the weakest point on a bolt is just under the head..
 
well, ok don't know what is the cause but I went with logic here. did away with the threaded part of the box all together. drilled out and installed 7/16" through bots with lock washers and lock nuts. all grade 8. fyi, it is push/ pull set up on my Dana 60. this was a problem before this axle though. I currently have a raised block on the knuckle and my drag link is nearly level. I did put a large flat washer between the bolt heads and frame. now for some wheeling! wish I knew the cause though....I week keep ya all posted
 
If you don't have the spacers anymore, I think the ORD brace eliminates them with their own.
 
K85 Octane said:
If you don't have the spacers anymore, I think the ORD brace eliminates them with their own.
Click to expand...

yes ord eliminates them as there longer and welded to there bolt on brace parts .

this is also the reason the t-case crossmember has the spacer tubes .
 
I'm thinking the bolts are coming loose and causing the breakage. And if you have crossover steering without hydro assist, that can cause stuff to break. Is this a stock steering box? I'm assuming your power steering pump is working okay.
 
What's your steering setup? Crossover was mentioned above, but if you still have push- pull steering I bet you're binding the drag link when the left front wheel droops.

Do you have any steering corrections? Most of the steering corrections for a dana 60 are just a cheesy spacer block. You may need to run a limiting strap or change to crossover steering to eliminate the problem
 
frustration still! been wheeling a couple times and the bolts still work themselves loose slowly. tightening these up has become a regular maintenance item prior to every wheeling trip. No, i dont have the spacers anymore. please explain the physics behind having them. push/pull steering still but x-over is on the list of upgrades. I feel this would be the solution to my issue here....keep in mind, i am NOT easy on this machine...gentle but not easy!! :)

when in doubt, throttle out!! LOL
 
I'm pretty sure you're going to need the spacers. Maybe you could rig up some stacks of washers or something.
 
I made sleeves to fit between the existing frame and the new piece I welded as a box type feature. But it is only 2 inches wide.
 
nvrenuf said:
Fyi, 3 of the 4 bolt holes in the box go all the way through so you can get a loner bolt and put a lock nut on the outside (preferably a Stover or pinch style nut).
Click to expand...

Did you try this as a remedy for the bolts coming loose?

I have no idea about the physics of the spacers but I do know that everyone I've seen remove them has bolt problems.
 
it's the same as the ones at the t-case x-member, the longer bolt, thus bolt stretch, acts as a lockwasher somewhat...
 
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