What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

snorkel mock up

Kain

Kain

3/4 ton status
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Posts
5,725
Reaction score
2,141
Location
Lubbock Texas
well i got all the parts today that go under the hood, so i decided to mock it up.
First thing i did was check for casting flash and found some.Took a file and knocked it down flat.I am going to make a bracket out of stainless and bolt it to the inner fender to support the air cleaner box.

the last pic is what it should look like

CAM00605.jpg

CAM00607.jpg

CAM00608.jpg

IMG_20141007_134011 (2).jpg
 
That's purdy. What's the plan for the through the fender and piller mount? Is that a q jet carb?
 
Vaper lock,put those on the fuel line and no more vapor lock
I have to move the heater hose its to close to the fuel line
 
Kain said:
Vaper lock,put those on the fuel line and no more vapor lock
I have to move the heater hose its to close to the fuel line
Click to expand...

Epic Red Green-style fix FTW!

My carb guy told me to use metal lines as they dissipate heat better. The PITA is bending them -- unless you get prebent ones from LMC or Inline or whoever. He also suggested I use multiple sections with couplers, which seems counter-intuitive to me, but as long as they seal properly, the couplers give a little wiggle room.

Anyway, some thoughts.

-- A
 
Ya i want to put in metal lines and a regulator
 
Last edited:
I run a Holley red pump usually a electric will push threw the vapor lock,but since that heater hose is right up against it that's why it did it.guess ill move it when i install the snorkel.
 
time to make a template of this snorkel,now i just need my heat gun

CAM00621.jpg

CAM00620.jpg

CAM00622.jpg
 
and the outlet on the snorkel is 3 1/4" so it should flow enough air for the sbc
 
That is how I made the placement to get from fender to A pillar. What Toyota snorkel did you get?

10271181_436303546513951_7830717128162744214_o.jpg


Then I took the template from the snorkel (Toyota 80 series) and put behind the card board template after aligning the mounting holes. I then taped the white template to the truck so I could remove the cardboard one I made. Next step was punch the bolt holes for drilling (unless your taking the fender off the lower rear one you won't be able to bolt on) the lower front bolt needs to be longer I think it was a half in longer we used. Note: see that door has room to open.
1501285_436303756513930_7678774940842086492_o.jpg


When you do the pass through hole take your time and use a cutting oil to help the hole saw. When you bolt the snorkel be sure to use some loctite on the threads going in to snorkel body (I'm sure you knew it).

Now this is where we cut the inner fender to have room for the connector. We sprayed under coating on the area (sorry no picture).
856318_437309096413396_3467588790941399867_o.jpg


Here you can see why you need the longer lower front bolt. and how far the snorkel is from the pillar.
10271295_437309143080058_1723455592525150722_o.jpg


To get the snorkel over you need to fill it with silica sand to dissipate the heat from warping the plastic. The secret is to go slow and back and forth over the area.
landcruiser80seriessnorkelkit-1.jpg


Also to help get it over we used a ratchet strap with the ratchet strap near the top and just minor tension on it to slowly bend snorkel to prevent kinking it (the sand helps too).
DSC00028.jpg


As the strap would go slack due to heating we would adjust it back to as you see in picture. GO SLOW ON HEATING!!!! do not rush it. When heating you want to make sure that the snorkel does not bend to the rear (door would hit it) our fixed end of strap was slightly in front of LF name badge. This caused the pull to be slightly forward and in toward truck.
Here is the finished look.
DSC00029.jpg

As for the bracket that comes with it the angle is wrong. You have to either make a new one or bend it (break it and weld the angle opposite.) You will see what I mean when you hold it to the A pillar. I will add a picture tomorrow (I'm sick now)

I put some black silicone in the gap on lower front where the bolt was visable (not all along under side just front curve)I will add a picture tomorrow

You saved me from having to do a complete write up thanks.
10497477_469596756517963_613076651304661677_o.jpg
 
80 series just like the pic you posted. where did you get the silica sand?
Thanks for the info, I printed it out from your build thread.
 
By "silica sand", aifinkso Lawrence just means the stuff you get at the Homo Despot, play sand, anything like that. I think.

-- A
 
i was also gong to drill holes in the top piece to mount it to the snorkel, just not to keen on the pipe clamp holding it in place. Also when i go play in the mud it wont fall off in the mud. 4 screws to mount it in a + pattern so i can spin it to keep muddy water out of it.
 
Kain said:
80 series just like the pic you posted. where did you get the silica sand?
Click to expand...

It is NOT play sand it is a fine quartz sand that is non corrosive (because sand will get down in the inner fender) it won't cause rust.

14WGRN_1.jpg

UNIMIN GRANUSIL 4095 SILICA SAND


I got it at our local hardware store it was $8.00 for a 50 pound bag (more than enough). Be sure to wear a dust filter when pouring it as long term exposure to it has been know to cause lung problems. After I was down I used a clean shop vac to get it out. I then saved it for water filtration in SHTF.
 
I'll be doing this very soon!! Thanks for the write up it was just what I've been needing to read! I have 5.3 and I'll be using the same air filter box you have.. What about water when it's raining any issues??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom