Don't blame you, I feel exactly like that.
CK5
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So dad finally grenaded the ol' Ford...**Pics of the damage**
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Wow "Little" Avery all growd up with his beard
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That is crazy how all of the bolts sheared like that. Did you check the bolts on the other side? It is some cheap insurance
Dik
.That is crazy how all of the bolts sheared like that. Did you check the bolts on the other side? It is some cheap insurance
Dik
haha yeah and I just trimmed it up too... it was getting a little out of hand for a while 
I'll check the other side when I put this side back together... so do you guys know what the "LL" is for? Can I just put it back together with grade 8 bolts?
I'll check the other side when I put this side back together... so do you guys know what the "LL" is for? Can I just put it back together with grade 8 bolts?
haha yeah and I just trimmed it up too... it was getting a little out of hand for a while
I'll check the other side when I put this side back together... so do you guys know what the "LL" is for? Can I just put it back together with grade 8 bolts?
Grade 8 bolts will be fine.
And its 30 spline, not 28.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Yep grade 8, that is what is in my 14FF. As for the LL I would suggest that it is a Manufacturer's Mark as LL is not one of the industry bolt head markings. Some manufacturers place a unique symbol or letter pattern to identify who made the fasteners. On self locking nuts (nylon insert type) the color of the nylon insert tells you who made the nut.
Dik
Dik
wow, that pic just made it clear how a FF hub works.
Im an idiot
Im an idiot
three lines is a grade 5 bolt...
Replace with grade 8 and torque to the correct value and it should be good for a long time to come yet.
Rene
Replace with grade 8 and torque to the correct value and it should be good for a long time to come yet.
Rene
Thanks for the heads up on the splines Chris... I must have counted wrong...
So a 30 spline full floating D60... is this like a mid to late 80's rear end?
So 3 lines is grade 5... I wonder why the p/o would have done that...
I'll go get some grade 8 bolts at the hardware store tomorrow and replace the other side at the same time for some cheap insurance...
So a 30 spline full floating D60... is this like a mid to late 80's rear end?
So 3 lines is grade 5... I wonder why the p/o would have done that...
I'll go get some grade 8 bolts at the hardware store tomorrow and replace the other side at the same time for some cheap insurance...
I also used lockwashers under the grade-8 bolts on my 14bff shafts
Hmmm I've never noticed anyone doing that... my problem isn't that they back off...just the shearing issue
Well guys I'm off to bed... I'll update the thread tomorrow night. Hopefully I can get the broken pieces out tomorrow at work and get it all put back together tomorrow night...
Well guys I'm off to bed... I'll update the thread tomorrow night. Hopefully I can get the broken pieces out tomorrow at work and get it all put back together tomorrow night...
I did that because The old 14bff shaft bolts had like an integrated washer in the head that had teeth to prevent them from backing off. Also one of the bolts broke when I unbolted the shaft so i figured it was a good idea to replace them.Hmmm I've never noticed anyone doing that... my problem isn't that they back off...just the shearing issue
Well guys I'm off to bed... I'll update the thread tomorrow night. Hopefully I can get the broken pieces out tomorrow at work and get it all put back together tomorrow night...
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Totally missed the fact he said it had 3 lines and LL
. Like Rene said 3 lines is grade 5, 6 lines is grade 8. Check it hereMaybe that is why they failed, wrong fastener for the application
Dik
Yeah I'm sure that's why they sheared... I'm heading off to work right now and during my lunch break I'll run over to the hardware store and get a bunch of grade 8's to replace them with tonight...
Angry Yo! Can you say......"Ford power!". 
I'll get pics later on tonight but I manged to get the drum all fixed up...
I used a 1/4" easy-out to get the sheared off bolts out then ran a 7/16" tap through them to fix the dinged up threads at the top...
I steamed it all off and tossed some WD40 on the bearing to keep it from rusting and its good to go...
I ran by the hardware store and got some new 7/16" x 1 1/2" grade 8 bolts w/ new lock washers... enough for both sides so I'll put the passenger side back together then pull the driver's side apart and put new bolts in for good measure...
I used a 1/4" easy-out to get the sheared off bolts out then ran a 7/16" tap through them to fix the dinged up threads at the top...
I steamed it all off and tossed some WD40 on the bearing to keep it from rusting and its good to go...
I ran by the hardware store and got some new 7/16" x 1 1/2" grade 8 bolts w/ new lock washers... enough for both sides so I'll put the passenger side back together then pull the driver's side apart and put new bolts in for good measure...
That likely never would have broken with the right bolts..... A full floating D60 is overkill for almost ANY streetable built small or big block. Your dad shouldn't be able to break that rear end with any 390.
Remember to change that inner seal. "pull a wheel, change a seal".... if you don't it will likely leak on you.
Remember to change that inner seal. "pull a wheel, change a seal".... if you don't it will likely leak on you.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
if it had a locker, it still woulda been able to drive... 
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
if it had a locker, it still woulda been able to drive...
But it would have had bad torque steer
Dik
Maybe that is why they failed, wrong fastener for the application
I can guarantee that the bolts failed because they were loose.
The bolts shouldn't see any shear load.
Their clamping force creates friction between the axle flange and hub which is designed to take the load. When the bolts get loose, the friction is gone and the bolts have to take the load; in this case, sometimes they break (like happened here).
Higher grade bolts have a higher yield strength; more yield strength means a higher torque spec (torque specs for steel bolts are generally ~75% of their yield strength) and hence more frictional force.
That likely never would have broken with the right bolts..... A full floating D60 is overkill for almost ANY streetable built small or big block. Your dad shouldn't be able to break that rear end with any 390.
Remember to change that inner seal. "pull a wheel, change a seal".... if you don't it will likely leak on you.
Do you know what year fords had full floating dana 60's w/ the 30 spline shafts? I want to get a haynes or chiltons manual for it but it'll take a couple since the truck is pieced together... frame and cab are '75 F250 Highboy but we don't know what year the rear axle is from... any ideas?
if it had a locker, it still woulda been able to drive...
True... good thinkin'...
On that note we got it all put back together this evening including replacing the driver's side bolts w/ the new grade 8 bolts...
He's going to drive the crew cab to work tomorrow b/c even though it's back together we didn't know what to torque the bolts to... I put them at 50 ft./lbs. but wasn't sure what they call for... do you guys know? He took it around the block and everything seems to be perfect but we didn't want him to drive all the way across town to work before we got them torqued to spec...
