CK5
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So if front blocks are bad, why are rear ones OK?

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Good thing the missus wasn't around when you came by. She woulda had me load you up with just about everything else in the backyard if she had her way

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Chuckle. Well, you're fortunate I only had the Blazer, as opposed to borrowing the (ex)wife's Burb /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

One of these days I wanna get a trailer, but then I'm afraid I'll end up with more crap /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

-- A
 
There is more lateral stress on the front axle, and the consequences of loosing a block on the front is much greater than if something happened in the rear.
 
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exactly the problem with promoting the ORD blocks as 'safe and proper'

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There is no difference between running a zero rate and flipping your overload spring. And a zero rate is only 1" thick. A lot of factory 3/4 and 1 ton trucks come with small blocks like this. They are nive if you only need 1" of life to level your ride and don't want to stiffen your ride with an add a leaf.
 
my 98 cummins dodge came from the factory with a 5" block in the rear with the bump stop plate attached.

I have never seen a factory block ever fail or come out but I would also never use a lift block to add lift to a rig.
I cant tell you what the difference is between the ones that the factory uses compared to aftermarket.
but dont ever use aftermarket blocks I have seen literally tons of them spit out on a trail in the middle of knowhere and leave vehicles stranded.
 
I broke aftermarket cast ones
made some from solid steel
hey a Billet part on my junk, I could be pimping like rfguiter

if your overloads are 1" thick then I agree that ORD blocks are as bad,
if they are thinner then 1" then they are proportionally better
both suck a bit though
blocks are not preferable
front blocks are not as bad as made out to be but I wouldnt run them and do not like them
tons of heavy 4x4 work trucks are made with front lift blocks
look under an Aspulund style F600 Marrmon Herrington conversion
 
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