What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

So lets have a serious Cummins vs 6.5 discussion

Here a Cummins is 2500-3000 easy. Hell every one is asking 10-12k for first year power strokes and 12-15 for any cummins. I have a buddy with a super high mileage 1995 5.9ctd/4500 that is on its last legs I have dibs on but I think if I get it I will do a crew and just do like I planned with this reg cab k30 dually.
 
Plus if I buy a Cummins I would have to have a fresh one not some 300k one with studs and a head gasket.
 
Some smoke entirely too much of the Cummins cool aid!!!!! I plan on 100% rebuild for mine. Has about 200k, looks good inside, but I want a fresh motor. Don't even have anything to put it in yet. Gonna be a long term project.
 
80' 427 said:
Here a Cummins is 2500-3000 easy. Hell every one is asking 10-12k for first year power strokes and 12-15 for any cummins. I have a buddy with a super high mileage 1995 5.9ctd/4500 that is on its last legs I have dibs on but I think if I get it I will do a crew and just do like I planned with this reg cab k30 dually.
Click to expand...

80' 427 said:
Plus if I buy a Cummins I would have to have a fresh one not some 300k one with studs and a head gasket.
Click to expand...

b454rat said:
Some smoke entirely too much of the Cummins cool aid!!!!! I plan on 100% rebuild for mine. Has about 200k, looks good inside, but I want a fresh motor. Don't even have anything to put it in yet. Gonna be a long term project.
Click to expand...

But, But......You mean to tell me all the talk on the internet about how Cummins will last 500,000+ miles before needing a rebuild isn't true??????:eek1::eek1::eek1:....:rolleyes:
 
Just cuz they made it that long doesn't mean they shouldn't have had a rebuild by than. Some people are just oblivious to maintenance outside of oil changes. If it still runs than it must be good.
 
I drink the 5.9 Cummins kool aid, because my experience with them on a daily basis tells me that it tastes soooo good. I currently own 5 B series 5.9's that are ran regularly, nothing sitting on a "bench."

Best freakin' engine ever put in a pickup.... Wipes the floor with girly 7.3 PSDs ( I know, I have 2 of those also) and a 7.3 PSD wipes the floor with the any old GM diesel, so you get the point.... Anything worth a frick compared to a B series is a duramax, or possibly the newer 6.7PSD.

5.9 B series RELIABLY will go 300-500K, without any work internally. Just adjust the valves every 100K and change the oil every 10-15K, oh and do this while making 350HP and 800ft lbs.

Best part too, is they are CHEAP on the used market. 2-3K gets you a clean 12/24v, and deals can be found for a grand. That's cheap. 3.9L B series goes for $2500+. I just bought a John Deere 4045 4cyl turbo 95HP engine for $4500, and that was as screamin' deal.
 
I've only ever ridden in one, and that was a 24v. But was 325 stock, had some box on it, tranny wouldn't hold up to the motor. But truck was big, and wouldn't know it riding in it. Mine needs work, and don't have the money right now to do pretty much anything to it. But I want to build it up to 5-600 horse, just because I can. Don't plan on towing or hauling anything, just ass lol. By meaning the cool aid, some people think that's it's worth a small fortune just because it's for a Cummins. Next to impossible to find one out here, that runs and drives for less than $3k. Maybe less for a 2wd 1st gen. Cummins would be the only diesel i'd own, tho I love GM, hate the early ones, and Duramax stupid expensive, and total electric. One wire for a Cummins.....
 
rjfguitar said:
I drink the 5.9 Cummins kool aid, because my experience with them on a daily basis tells me that it tastes soooo good. I currently own 5 B series 5.9's that are ran regularly, nothing sitting on a "bench."

Best freakin' engine ever put in a pickup.... Wipes the floor with girly 7.3 PSDs ( I know, I have 2 of those also) and a 7.3 PSD wipes the floor with the any old GM diesel, so you get the point.... Anything worth a frick compared to a B series is a duramax, or possibly the newer 6.7PSD.

5.9 B series RELIABLY will go 300-500K, without any work internally. Just adjust the valves every 100K and change the oil every 10-15K, oh and do this while making 350HP and 800ft lbs.

Best part too, is they are CHEAP on the used market. 2-3K gets you a clean 12/24v, and deals can be found for a grand. That's cheap. 3.9L B series goes for $2500+. I just bought a John Deere 4045 4cyl turbo 95HP engine for $4500, and that was as screamin' deal.
Click to expand...

I think you forgot to mention they get 37.876 mpg up hill towing 49,000 lbs with the trailer brakes locked up.......( Just being a dick.:D )
 
b454rat said:
Some smoke entirely too much of the Cummins cool aid!!!!! I plan on 100% rebuild for mine. Has about 200k, looks good inside, but I want a fresh motor. Don't even have anything to put it in yet. Gonna be a long term project.
Click to expand...
Why? 200K isn't jack for a 5.9 Cummins, especially if it was still set at stock power levels. None of mine use any oil at all and a couple of them have more miles then that.
 
I don't know the history of the engine. It was in a pusher bus for a college, so should have been well maintained. But I'd rather go thru it, then I will know what I have. Then I won't have to worry what's gonna go if I push it....
 
80' 427 said:
I have 2 6.2s and a 2000 n/a 6.5. I would love a Cummins but think for what they get for a 12 valve and what the swap will cost I can have s decent 6.5 with my hx35 making about 250hp and over 500ftlbs and it will be just fine for my farm use and is a bolt in. My nv4500 is a Chevy tranny that won't fit a Cummins and I don't think a 4bt is a great replacement but I am sure I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

The 4BT won't be any less work than a 6BT, and it typically has a higher engine cost. So unless you're looking for mileage, I'm not sure what you would gain by choosing the smaller engine.


FWIW, I think the 6.5 is a fine engine (as are the B-series engines), and bolt-in parts are quite convenient compared to shoehorning. So if you have the GM parts lying around, and they will fit your need (no drag racing), why wouldn't you use them? :dunno:
 
Yeah what campfire said, I'm all for the B series engine, obviously, but for around the farm you don't need a lot. I have some experience there..... Hell I ran a carbed 454 in my 3+3 K30 for years chasing tractors around.

THe main thing to putting together a good farm/ranch truck is...
1. Good fuel mileage, these trucks spend a LOT of time driving stop and go, not highway mileage. So something that can do that efficiently is important. There is also a LOT of idling involved too, so back to the fuel thing, something that sips fuel while idling is ideal.

2. Diesel.... always diesel... it's the answer to #1.

3. Good A/C. I'm a California farmer and it gets hot here, wrenching on tractors this that whatever, it is SO nice getting back into the truck and getting cooled down quickly when you've been outside in 100* weather with cover alls on.
4. Cab config. and maneuverability. Obviously a crew cab short bed or Suburban is a terrible farm truck. I run 2 regular cab 7.3 PSD Fords now, one with a 9ft Crane bad and one with an 11ft flat bed. They are maneuverable in tight spots while maximizing usable work space (bed). Also reg. cab config helps with #3.

It would be a toss up for me between using a 3.9L B series or a 6.5 GM. The GM will be a little smoother running I guess, but the little 4 banger Cummins will beat it up on fuel mileage, reliability, longevity and with the pump set right, be real similar in power if not be a bit more torquey actually.
 
I agree with all above. I have pondered a 4bt and actually if I can get a guy here to come down on his and keep his slush box I may go that way. Still I have a 6.2 in the truck now and a cheap 6.5 so the works to fit is very minimal and the block is the later improved block. I plan on going through the 6.5 just to be sure it is sound, maybe even a new scat crank, head gaskets and studs. The current truck is a low mile 82 K30. I pieced together a turbo kit with a hx35 using a banks manifold. It isn't perfect but is solid and a strong foundation. The truck is a nonA/C cab but it will either get swapped to factory ac or aftermarket ac. It is a reg cab dually. Right now the truck is a 6.2/465/205 syncro/60/70 with 4.10 gears. I am planning on a 6.5/early low gear gm nv4500/ idk transfercase yet keeping the rest the same. I am hoping the 6.5 hx35 with my rebuilt pump will make 250hp and 500+ tq. The poor little 6.2 made 210hp and 450ftlbs but has pretty good blow-by. I am collecting parts right now. Not sure about keeping the box or going flatbed.
 
80' 427 said:
I agree with all above. I have pondered a 4bt and actually if I can get a guy here to come down on his and keep his slush box I may go that way. Still I have a 6.2 in the truck now and a cheap 6.5 so the works to fit is very minimal and the block is the later improved block. I plan on going through the 6.5 just to be sure it is sound, maybe even a new scat crank, head gaskets and studs. The current truck is a low mile 82 K30. I pieced together a turbo kit with a hx35 using a banks manifold. It isn't perfect but is solid and a strong foundation. The truck is a nonA/C cab but it will either get swapped to factory ac or aftermarket ac. It is a reg cab dually. Right now the truck is a 6.2/465/205 syncro/60/70 with 4.10 gears. I am planning on a 6.5/early low gear gm nv4500/ idk transfercase yet keeping the rest the same. I am hoping the 6.5 hx35 with my rebuilt pump will make 250hp and 500+ tq. The poor little 6.2 made 210hp and 450ftlbs but has pretty good blow-by. I am collecting parts right now. Not sure about keeping the box or going flatbed.
Click to expand...

Post lots of pictures, whichever way you go. :thumb:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom