CK5
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So lets have a serious Cummins vs 6.5 discussion

I have a build thread some where. This is a picture.
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The biggest thing about keeping it a 6.5 is that the cost is so low. I bought the last one for $250.
 
There is nothing wrong with the 6.2 or 6.5 if they are in good shape, and I would just stick with that. For one it's a factory setup and keeping in mind that this is a work vehicle that likely needs to be reliable and not let you down. I have no idea how big your farm is, but for me when I have multiple tractors/employees going and it's time to get across acres NOW, I don't have time for equipment letting me down, especially my support system which is my 2 Ford service trucks and my Dodge puller, that keeps the big iron in the field running. Last thing you need is something failing that got over looked doing a Cummins swap or what not when the push is on during the busy times. We all miss things, no matter how good of a mechanic we might be, it happens.

I went through something similar, I made a thread back in June about completely re-vamping my '81 K30 to make it more beneficial to my current farming practices, but I couldn't financially justify the cost of updating the power train, new bed, yada yada for a 35 year old truck. It was just cheaper to buy a newer truck, leave it factory stock and reliable, and is still at the end of the day a better, stronger, more reliable vehicle then a square body GM K30. (mid 90's F350 7.3 PSD)

I know we are all square body fans here, but for work, sometimes it's hard to justify relying on a 30 year old truck with 30 year old technology. But..... everyone's situation can vary.
 
Oh I agree. Honestly between dad and me we farm 1500 or so acres. There really isn't enough for 2 families so I have mostly always had a job in town and helped at night and weekends. I spent the last 4 years in engineering school going to college for the second time (39 right now). Hoping to get a job about 30 miles away and again help after work and take vacation during planting/ harvest. My dad is 65 but will not retire any time soon. I want a truck I can drive to work, pull trailers with, and repair most reasonable things in the field. The cost is the thing that holds me up. Sure I can spend 8k swapping in a Cummins but it is just some old Chevy worth about 5k on s good day. I would like to out fit it with a welder generator, plenty of tools, jacks, lots of lights etc. I have a 8.1 k2500 that will pull anything but I want a dedicated truck I can drive all summer.
 
Personally I'd run a 6.2 block and the j code heads and intake, find the diamond precups for it. Get a set of lower comp Pistons 18:1 or 16:1 run that hx35 or hx40w2, find a nice intercooler and put a scat crank if your worried and all arp studs and forget about it.. Youll make more than a 12 does stock and it'll have a longer rpm range to work with to boot. Just don't lug it, keep good glow plugs and run them on a manual switch. I don't see how you can go wrong with that setup. It'll be a lot less than any Cummins swap, plus it's not 5 grand to rebuild like a Cummins is. Also not as heavy. If your not towing all the time that's what I'd do, if your gonna tow a lot and really heavy go first gen dodge and call it a day.
 
The only reason I was going with the 6.5 is it is a NA 6.5 so old 7 and 8 are drilled for squirters and it has the improvements seen in the navastar block. I will check it out good before doing anything.
 
Youll make more than a 12 does stock and it'll have a longer rpm range to work with to boot. .
I'd like more info on this please. A 12 valve will begin to roll in the power at 1200rpm, and really start to hit hard at 1400, with an HX35. Stock they are done at 2700, GSK governor kit and they go to 3200 like a 24v. If a modded 6.2 can roll in the power lower than a 12v I'm impressed.
 
I think he is saying a stock 12 valve is 210hp and a 6.2-6.5 with a turbo can make that or more. You should just cut me a deal on your 81 K30 and Marty and I will fly out and drive it back.
 
Do you have any hills to deal with? If not a guy can get away with an engine that doesn't have to have a bunch of power. I would just go with your plan of some sort of GM engine that is in decent shape. Turbo'd or not. Big question is hills....
 
Some hills but towing things like a 1000 gallon liquid nitrogen trailer or NH3 trailers you just drive slow and use a deeper gear. If you go fast they tend to play wag the dog and push you around. Part of the reason I liked the dually was when pulling my crawler on my trailer to the orv park it doesn't get pushed out of shape by the wind blowing on the trailer. We have a 30' trailer we use for planting chemicals that has a 1500 gallon water tank and weights an easy 20k+ bout my dad's 8.1 is tied to it and barring it breaking this truck would just shuttle those 1000 gallon fertilizer tanks in the spring, NH3 tanks in the fall and the skidloader trailer the rest of the time.
 
I think he is saying a stock 12 valve is 210hp and a 6.2-6.5 with a turbo can make that or more. You should just cut me a deal on your 81 K30 and Marty and I will fly out and drive it back.
That, and they can be as sad as 160HP actually, from 90-about 96 or so. They are pretty gutless actually at that weiney 160HP rating. I was more curious on the RPM range that he was referring to.

Lol... I considered selling my K30. It's ridiculously clean, CA truck all it's life, no rust, and biggest thing is just how tight that truck is. I've ridden in a lot of old GM's..that raddle squeek and hiss. Mine doesn't. In 10 years and 40K miles of owning it only thing I ever did to it repair wise was a fuel pump and heater core. Heck, I think I've only changed the plugs in it once. The problem is it's just not worth enough to justify selling it. My eventual plan when I have time and shop space available to disassemble it is to short bed it, complete frame off restore, Alcan lift, and Dmax/Ally swap in. Very similar to my K5 build, just better I hope.
 
Some hills but towing things like a 1000 gallon liquid nitrogen trailer or NH3 trailers you just drive slow and use a deeper gear. If you go fast they tend to play wag the dog and push you around. Part of the reason I liked the dually was when pulling my crawler on my trailer to the orv park it doesn't get pushed out of shape by the wind blowing on the trailer. We have a 30' trailer we use for planting chemicals that has a 1500 gallon water tank and weights an easy 20k+ bout my dad's 8.1 is tied to it and barring it breaking this truck would just shuttle those 1000 gallon fertilizer tanks in the spring, NH3 tanks in the fall and the skidloader trailer the rest of the time.
I think you are on the right track with the 6.5. Main thing is to just get it done economically like you said and make it a solid truck all around. With the plans you have, I'd actually be more focused on spending money on your setup that goes BEHIND the cab. The truck is only as good as the tools it has on board. I love that stuff, service trucks are my thing. I'm a dork. I'll be with a buddy and he'll say "did you just see that Camaro?" "No, I was looking at the new Dodge 5500 with the IMT bed and crane that was following it.."

Oh, and if you and Marty decide to take a vacation out west, I'll put you guys up for a few nights, feed ya' beers, and give you a tour of the crazy CA Ag world. :thumb:
 
My brother in law thinks he is a cowboy so they own more dually crew cabs then anyone with good sense would own. He is a dodge nut and also has a ext cab long box 2wd with a 5.9 and an auto. It is one of those 160hp ones. Not sure why anyone would want a truck where you have to worry about getting stuck if you pee in front of the tire.
 
Honestly I keep looking at k4500 & k5500 crew cabs. They are cheaper than 3/4 & 1 tons and would pull anything I wanted.
 
They might be only 160 horse, but torque is over 400 stock. When I was trying to find out what mine was, 190 horse and 475 torque which matched the data plate. But being a 91/92/93 motor that was p-pumped thru me off. But put a #100 fuel plate, BHAF, free flow exhaust and tuning, numbers go to 290 horse and 750 torque. Try that with a 6.2/6.5!!!! But if you already have the Detroit use what you have. Gearing makes a huge difference too.
 
The problem is as cool as a Cummins in a Chevy is it is a lot less work to leave it in a dodge.
 
They might be only 160 horse, but torque is over 400 stock. When I was trying to find out what mine was, 190 horse and 475 torque which matched the data plate. But being a 91/92/93 motor that was p-pumped thru me off.
Sounds like you have an industrial B series out of a bus or truck, etc.
 
I would only buy a Dodge if it had a Cummins. Mine was in a pusher bus. Pump is the only major difference, and then it's stuff that is easily swapped. A local yard has a contract with FedEx express, whenever they junk it the yard gets dibs. Couple years ago they had over a dozen 110% complete motors. They would cut the bodies off, cut frame behind tranny, cut rear out, then sell it like that. I could have gotten whole deal for $1200. Some where 160, some 175. But they all ran, and had everything there. But story of my life, right place wrong time. Never had the money to get one.
 
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