CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

so the 4x4 stoped working on me wtf!

UH OH.....has anyone explained to chrisquested about the K5 curse,obsession,hobby? NO? Well then, are you in for some fun? Like to get dirty, greasy and smelly?
GOT CASH? :haha:
 
UH OH.....has anyone explained to chrisquested about the K5 curse,obsession,hobby? NO? Well then, are you in for some fun? Like to get dirty, greasy and smelly?
GOT CASH? :haha:

Dont mind geting dirty or greasy.....I think i am going to get some silver paint and herculiner. that will make it look alot nicer...Then if i can drop a 700r4 that could save a little gas. idk...I got a 1980 chevy luv 4x4 that i am wanting to drop onto some 1/2 ton axles 350 motor 350 trans and 208 t case.
 
ill do it again, just at work and it took a couple minutes to type that...
 
You typed the whole thing out?!?

I knew I should've saved it. I was at work too and I was going to save it when I got home..........then the big crash of 2011 happened :(
 
of course, the very first time I type a novel, it gets deleted/crashed....I typed that from scratch cause I just did my bearings and races last week.
 
Hubs and Bearings:

Tools: Hub socket for your axle, snap ring plyers(outer), small and large skrew driver, bearing packer, grease gun, punch, ball pein hammer, allen wrenches for the hub and caliper bolts, Torque wrench, Lug wrench or sockets, 1/2 drive w/ extention, Seal puller, needle nose plyers, and a block of wood.

Parts: Wheel bearings both inner and outer, races, hub seal, and wheel bearing grease

Selectable hubs removal:

Remove the 6 allen head bolts that hold on the hub dial. Using snap ring plyers, remove the snap ring that is on the axle shaft. A little pressure from the backside of the shaft will make it easier to get to. Pry out the outer ring that hold the hub body in, I usually use a small tip skrewdriver and just walk it in a circle. Grab 2 of the allen bolts and hand skrew them into the hub body and pull it out.

Wheel hub removal:

Undo the tires and then undo the caliper. With a hub socket, loosen the hub nut, with needle nose plyers, remove the lockring (has holes in it), then using the hub nut again, remove the inner hub nut. Put your hand over the end of the hub to save the bearing from falling out and pull the entire hub and rotor assembly off and set aside, note the outer wheel bearing will just fall out. The inner bearing is held in by the seal. Clean the hub real good.

Swapping races and bearings:

With a seal puller or fancy skrewdriver, pry the hub seal off the backside of the wheel hub and remove the inner bearing. Using a punch, punch the races out by hitting them evenly in a circle so it drives out straight. The outer race comes out from the front of the hub, and the inner race gets removed thru the backside of the hub by the seal. Using a punch, hit the new races into there spot. The bigger one is the inner bearing/race and the smaller one is the outer bearing/race.

Packing Bearings:

Get yourself a bearing packer that has 2 plastic wedges that sandwich the bearing inbetween them and has a thru bolt with a zerk fitting on the top. Stick the bearing in there and start packing away, using a manual grease gun and wheel bearing grease. Once the grease is coming out of the rollers, I put a clean race on there and spin it so grease is all over every roller. Do the same for the other bearing and set them aside.

Installing Wheel hub doing bearing preload:

You will need a new hub seal, install the inner bearing and install the hub seal. The hub seal must go on straight so use a block of wood to hammer it in place evenly. Put a handfull of grease in the middle of the wheel hub and install the outer bearing and place the entire assembly on the spindle. With a skrewdriver and some pressure on the wheel hub while holding the wheel hub straight, push and seat the bearings all the way. Now its time to do bearing preload. Grab the inner hub nut (has a tab/nipple sticking out on it). With the hub socket, torque the inner hub nut to 50 ft/lbs and then back off the nut. While rotating the wheel hub, torque the inner hub nut so there is some resistance, but not to tight or loose. Place the lock ring on the spindle so the keyway lines up with the spindle and one of the holes goes over the tab/nipple on the inner hub nut. If it seems like your close, flip the lockring around and it might line up. If your really close you can tighten the inner hub nut slightly to get the lock ring to line up, but do not loosen the inner hub nut while doing this. Once the lockring is lined up flush with the inner hub nut, you can install the outer hub nut and torque to 160 ft/ lbs. Spin the hub when your done to make sure there is preload on the bearings and they aren't to loose or to tight.

Installing the selectable hubs:

Insert the hub body inside the wheel hub, so the allen head bolt holes are facing out. It splines with the wheel hub and the axleshaft in the middle. From the backside of the knuckle, pust the stub axle shaft out as far as possible and install the snap ring that goes on the axle shaft. Now install the outer ring for the wheel hub, I use a skrewdriver and start on one side and work it all the way around until its in the groove. Now you can install the dial part. There are 3 tabs that stick out a little bit, with the dial in the free position, line them up and install the cap/dial part. Make sure the o-ring is on the outer lip of the hub dial. Install the 6 allen head bolts to secure the hub. Your done.

Install the caliper and tire.
 
Top Bottom